Haley Sengsavanh reports on the spring couture 2024 collections by major fashion maisons

Fendi

This Fendi collection by Kim Jones was futuristic and graphic, featuring ribbed knit bodycon dresses, tiny black bandeau tops and a fitted silver suit. A creative fur alternative created with microscale embroidery threads sewn in overlapping formations was used to craft a beautiful bronze coat, silver pencil skirt and turquoise column dress. The accessories were also on point, including unique embroidered micro purses with dangling strands of pearls or beaded fringe.

Giambattista Valli

To describe the inspiration behind this feminine collection, Giambattista Valli said, “Flowers, roses, nature – they’re a caress for the soul.” This reverence for flora was evident from his very first look: a black velvet bustier bodysuit with massive white roses making up the off-shoulder bodice. Other highlights were a long white feathered cape and his closing bridal look, made from sparkling lace and consisting of a wide-lapelled long-sleeved top and bustling ruffled skirt.

Jean Paul Gaultier

This season, Simone Rocha featured in Jean Paul Gaultier’s guest designer programme, perfectly marrying their aesthetics together into an exquisite haute couture fairy tale. Gaultier’s famous Breton stripes were redone with Rocha- signature ribbons and bows, while his use of traditional Irish crochet inspired a silver bell- shaped gown. The accessories were full of references too, from a pink lace-up version of the Gaultier sailor hat to Lucite heels with a pearl toe ring.

Maison Margiela

John Galliano brought a sense of mystique and sensual allure to Couture Week with this collection inspired by Brassaï’s portraits of 1920s-’30s Parisian nightlife. Galliano’s models were tightly corseted and heavily padded, with wild matted hair or ringlets and a glossy mannequin-like make-up look courtesy of Pat McGrath. Every detail was exquisite, from the worn cardboard-like coat to the tulle- covered dresses that look like walking watercolour figures.

Miss Sohee

For this extravagant collection, Sohee Park took a more sensual route while imbuing her usual references to her Korean heritage. She said, “I was looking at the female form and the art of seduction. But it’s about sophisticated seduction.” A short embellished corset dress was styled with a sprawling coat adorned with 3D-embroidered peonies, a symbol of prosperity and nobility. Lotus flowers, which represent creation and birth, were turned into a Swarovski crystal motif on bodices and trains.

Rahul Mishra

This collection from Rahul Mishra was entitled Superheroes, named for the animals and insects embellished onto his gowns, raising awareness about declining biodiversity around the world. This lavish collection opened with a dress fashioned to look like a dragonfly on a petri dish. Other jaw-dropping looks included a hot pink halter top with giant bedazzled 3D beetles at the neckline, and a sequined oversized hat attached to a floor-length lattice crawling with salamanders.

Also see: #spring couture 2024 (part 1 of 3)