Haley Sengsavanh reports on the spring couture 2024 collections by major fashion maisons

Antonio Grimaldi

For the SS24 Couture season, Rome-based atelier Antonio Grimaldi created Bathing Beauty, inspired by Esther Williams, an American competitive swimmer turned Hollywood star of the 1940s and ’50s. The first look featured a beaded leotard underneath a massive fluffy pink feather jacket. Other subtle nods to his muse included abstract wave-like bodices, and sweeping gowns with matching hoods reminiscent of a swimming cap.

Ashi Studio

Saudi Arabian couturier Mohammed Ashi presented Ink Sculpture, a stunning and sculptural collection inspired by Japanese poetry and calligraphy. Aside from two glittering gold dresses and a fitted silver
gown, the looks were in sleek monochrome. Standouts included a knee-length jacket with tufted collar and hems made from a stiff sheer fabric, and a sheer top paired with a sparkly black corset and tiered fringe skirt.

Armani Privé

Giorgio Armani’s latest collection was entitled Haute Couture en Jeu, a French phrase with a double meaning of “putting couture into play” and “couture is having fun”. The garments definitely suited the theme: frothy ruffled skirts in light pastels and splashed watercolour-printed fabric, and delicate lace gowns encrusted with tiny crystals. He presented a beautiful parade of varying textures, colours and silhouettes.

Chanel

For this season, Virginie Viard dreamt up a delicate ballet core collection that was full of tulle skirts, tutus and leotard-esque bodices styled with white tights. The show opened with actress Margaret Qualley in a tweed jacket with a chiffon Pierrot ruff, a reference to founder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s previous designs. To close the show, Viard’s couture bride wore a short floral-printed frock with airy white chiffon balloon sleeves and a long white tulle train.

Christian Dior

This collection by Maria Grazia Chuiri was a modern take on 1950s silhouettes; keeping the elegance and sophistication while innovating through fabrics. This marked the first time she made garments with moire, a rippling silk fabric used to create pieces like a strapless scarlet gown with an architectural folded skirt. The structured grey moire blazer with a matching pleated skirt was also an updated version of Christian Dior’s “La Cigale” dress from his 1952 Profile collection.

Elie Saab

Elie Saab explored “the magic of Marrakesh and of the mystery of the desert rose” in this glamorous, regal and totally red-carpet-worthy collection. Standout looks included a dusty rose lace gown with a matching floor- length hooded cape and a flowing pear-green gown with a glittery 3D flower-encrusted bodice. His couture bride wore a long-sleeved cream gown with gold-embroidered side panels, and accessorised with a jewelled headband and cream veil.

Also see: Catch up with the Gucci Cruise 2025 Fashion Show at London’s Tate Modern