Geneva is once again the epicentre of horology as Watches & Wonders 2025 unfolds and brings the industry’s finest together for a week of innovation, craftsmanship and heritage. From technical marvels to artistic flourishes, each day offers something new to discover, making this edition one to watch. Here are today’s highlights from Cartier, Rolex, Hermès, and more
Cartier
This year, Cartier’s most wanted novelties owe their timeless silhouettes to the convention-defying designs of their forebears. The Roadster, originally launched in 2002 with its aerodynamic curves inspired by mid-century sports cars, returns after over a decade. It keeps the sleek, sporty silhouette while adding a more streamlined case, four bezel rivets and a flexible new bracelet with the QuickChange system. The newcomer is offered in two case sizes: 38 mm and 34.9 mm.
The Tortue also makes a comeback in five new references for everyday wear, along with an evening version and two stunning métiers d’art watches. All eight showcase a more voluminous case profile with softer, more generous lines. The Baignoire gains an edgy twist covered with the Clous de Paris motif. And last but not least, the new Myst bridges the gap between jewellery and watchmaking, introducing a novel bead-like form.
Other new releases retain classic cases but still offer something fresh. The latest Santos-Dumont, for example, features a new metal bracelet inspired by the flexibility of the maison’s made-to-measure metal watch straps developed back in the 1920s. In addition, the Privé lineup marks its 10th edition with updated versions of the Tank, Tortue, Crash and Cloche in new materials, colourways and even movements.
Rolex
One hundred years ago, Rolex changed watchmaking forever with the Oyster – the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. At Watches and Wonders 2026, the brand marks that milestone not with nostalgia but with a forward-looking collection.
The headline piece is a dedicated centenary tribute. The new Oyster Perpetual 41 yellow is presented with a subtle twist on Rolesor. Instead of the usual two-tone execution, yellow gold is reserved for the bezel and Twinlock crown, while the entire bracelet remains in Oystersteel. The slate sunray dial features the inscription “100 years” at six o’clock, while the Rolex name and minute track squares are rendered in signature green. The winding crown is also engraved with the number 100.
The OP 36 takes a bolder, more playful direction with a multicoloured lacquer dial displaying the “Rolex” name in a lively Jubilee motif. Meanwhile, two new solid 18k gold additions join the smaller sizes: a 28mm in yellow gold with a green stone lacquer dial, and a 34mm in Everose gold with a blue stone lacquer dial. Both are fitted with satin-finished bracelets.
But that’s far from all the Crown has prepared for 2026. In what Rolex positions as one of its two Exceptional Watches for the year, the brand introduces a new Daytona with a white grand feu enamel dial sitting against an anthracite Cerachrom ceramic bezel enriched with tungsten carbide, with a platinum edging band around the circumference. A sapphire crystal case back, secured by a platinum ring, reveals the movement.
The other Exceptional Watch is the Day-Date 40 in an entirely new proprietary alloy dubbed Jubilee Gold – a softer, warmer 18k gold blending tender yellow, warm grey and soft pink tones, paired here with a green aventurine dial.
After being discontinued in 2024, the Yacht-Master II now also returns to the catalogue with a more balanced dial featuring rounded hour markers and an updated calibre 4162 incorporating the Chronergy escapement for improved performance.
Chanel
Chanel brings its signature whimsy to Watches and Wonders 2026 with the Coco Game capsule collection, alongside new J12 models and the Noeud de Camelia line.
At the heart of the haute horlogerie Coco Game collection is a piece unique ceramic chessboard showcasing Chanel’s emblems through exceptional goldsmithing and gem-setting. The theme extends into limited editions across the range: a diamond-set J12 X-Ray with the skeleton Calibre 3.1, J12 Coco Game models featuring a laser-cut carbon Mademoiselle as the lightweight seconds hand gliding over a diamond-indexed dial, a Boy·Friend with Mademoiselle as the Queen of Hearts, and a Game Boy-inspired long necklace with a diamond Mademoiselle.
The iconic J12 expands with two new sizes at each end of the spectrum: a miniature 28mm versus an oversized 42mm. While the mini 28mm bears a quartz movement, the maxi version is powered by the automatic manufacture movement, Caliber 12.1 produced by Kenissi, which is COSC certified.
Outside of the core black and white J12 collection, the two contrary sizes can also be found in the limited edition J12 Golden Black, featuring polished or matt black ceramic cases and bracelets, paired with yellow gold-plated indexes.
But perhaps the most striking of the 42mm examples is the J12 Superleggera. It comes in a black matte ceramic and steel pairing, with a hardened steel bezel that is satin-finished on the top and blackened at the base, and with very tight gouges. The dial is black-lacquered with circular satin finishing and snailed at the edges. Date, meanwhile, is indicated by a red arrow for the window at 4 o’clock. The bracelet is matte black ceramic woven with satin-finished steel center links for a sharp bold look.
The J12 Bleu returns for good in two sizes: 33mm and 38mm, bearing the signature hallmarks of the J12, here enhanced in contrasting silver, which pairs well with the steel unidirectional bezel. They are powered by the COSC-certified automatic Caliber 12.2 for 33mm and 12.1 for 38mm respectively.
In a more fashion-forward direction, the new Noeud de Camélia collection draws on Coco Chanel’s beloved camellia flower, reinterpreted as elegant bows. It comprises four wrist watches and one secret ring watch in the classic Chanel black and white, variously festooned with glittering diamonds.
IWC Schaffhausen
IWC has always excelled at tool watches – especially its iconic Pilot’s Watches. For Watches & Wonders 2026, the brand leans fully into this heritage, delivering a strong lineup of aviation-inspired novelties that blend functionality, innovation and signature legibility.
Highlights include the groundbreaking Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive, a space-ready tool watch developed in partnership with Vast, featuring a crownless bezel-adjustment system designed specifically for astronauts. The Big Pilot’s Watch collection expands with new Perpetual Calendar models, including smaller 43 mm versions, the innovative ProSet system that allows for bidirectional setting via the crown, and a striking fully luminous Ceralume edition.
Additional releases feature fresh takes on the Pilot’s Watch Mark XX, Le Petit Prince anniversary editions in gold and ceramic, and refined chronographs — all reinforcing IWC’s mastery of robust, highly legible pilot’s instruments built for real-world performance.
The Ingenieur collection also grows with new dials on smaller models, a stunning green ceramic version with gold accents, a lightweight titanium QP and even a solid gold tourbillon.
A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne has, over the years, put together a body of work in complications that is as impressive for its depth as it is for its range. Sometimes that takes the form of inventive interpretations of established ideas such as the Zeitwerk. At other times, Lange works within the framework of traditional complications, but does so with a level of sophistication that goes beyond the expected. This year, Lange launches two calendar watches that are distinct in approach, but equally compelling: the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” and Saxonia Annual Calendar.
The Lumen is the headline act, combining a tourbillon, perpetual calendar and moon-phase display. Limited to a mere 50 pieces in a 950-platinum case, the transparent sapphire dial allows UV light to continuously charge the luminous elements beneath it. The result is a watch that reads beautifully by day and transforms into something genuinely spectacular at night.
The Saxonia Annual Calendar is a very different proposition, and arguably the more wearable watch. At 36mm in diameter and just 9.8mm tall, it is compact enough to slip under a shirt cuff. The Saxonia Annual Calendar is a very different proposition, and arguably the more wearable watch. At 36mm in diameter and just 9.8mm tall, it is compact enough to slip under a shirt cuff.
Hermès
Hermès continues to push itself in the horological department under the evocative theme “Mysterious Mechanics”. This is showcased best in the new H08 Skeleton collection. First launched in 2021 and designed by Philippe Delhotal, the original H08 stood out for its cushion-shaped case, bold numerals and modern aesthetic. The new watches preserve this strong identity while introducing a fully skeletonised dial that reveals the refined architecture of the manufacture H1978 movement. Housed in a 42mm black DLC-coated titanium case with a ceramic bezel, the two versions – grey or blue – are powered by the new self-winding H1978 S skeleton movement that is entirely crafted from titanium and beats at 4 Hz with 60-hours of power reserve.
Complementing the H08, Hermès presents two striking interpretations of the iconic Arceau. For 2026, the classic round case with asymmetrical stirrup-inspired lugs returns returns as a minute repeater powered by a new H1927 S skeletonised movement with micro-rotor. The dials are executed in white or blue Saint-Louis crystal, each featuring a delicate sapphire cut-out in the shape of a horse’s head – a subtle nod to Hermès’ equestrian heritage – offering a glimpse into the meticulously finished skeletonised movement. The sapphire caseback further shows off its exceptional craftsmanship, highlighted by finely bevelled edges, mirror polishing, chamfering, circular satin brushing and bead-blasting.
Also see: Watches & Wonders 2026: Day 1 highlights
