At Rosewood Schloss Fuschl, a 15th-century royal hunting lodge on the shores of one of the world’s clearest lakes, the days fill themselves – with forest foraging, lakeside dining and very little else. Zaneta Cheng reports from Salzburg
It’s a chilly 8°C in the alpine forests of Salzburg, Austria, and I find myself cutting up trout and char for our party of 10 at the Schloss Fuschl Fischerei, the private fishery belonging to the Rosewood Schloss Fuschl hotel. Both were caught and smoked in the morning on the shores of Lake Fuschl, known as one of the clearest lakes in the world. We’re swigging back Almdudler, a local herbal soda, as we de-bone the six fish
we’ve ordered. The flavour is clean with nary a whiff of funk and very much appreciated after a day of traipsing around the surrounding hills foraging for herbs.
It’s just one of an array of experiences available to us at Rosewood Schloss Fuschl. We’re due for a sunrise plunge in the lake, which, we’re told, is one of the more popular activities on offer given its pristine waters. On certain hiking routes, the former castle is even perfectly reflected in the still mirror.
It’s easy to pass a day and we join hikers as we make our way to the hotel post-lunch, passing by thick protected forests within which Rosewood has built six chalets, each with a private sauna and butler service. The woods break as we get to the top of the hill, and the towers of the hotel appear and the lake’s own fish, we move to grilled char from the castle fishery with mussels, sour cream and beurre blanc. The meal ends with an incredible chocolate soufflé with tonka bean ice cream.
These are the kinds of meals that give a sense of place. Neither too rustic nor too refined, the balanced approach draws from Austrian tradition without becoming tourist food. As part of the group eschewing a trip to the Schloss Bar after dinner, I return to my room to find turndown includes more local treats, which I slip into my bag for a trip into Salzburg the next day.
The ride into the city made famous by Mozart and The Sound of Music is a short one. Half an hour by car later, we’re traipsing from Mozart’s birthplace to teahouses to find the original Sacher Torte. There’s much to do, but Rosewood Schloss Fuschl has resided in the popular imagination for a very long time. Built as a hunting lodge for the Prince of Salzburg in the 15th century, it has operated as a hotel since 1947 and was the location for the 1955 cult Austrian film Sissi starring Romy Schneider, bringing continued visitors ever since. In 2024, the property reopened as a Rosewood hotel.
There’s a new wing as well as the original castle. Hallways look out into the castle courtyard while rooms overlook the surrounding mountains. Hardwood floors and French doors give each room an open, airy quality while bathrooms are clad in grey marble. There’s a bathtub as well as a walk-in shower. These are not the rooms of your ordinary Alpine chalet. For those who request them, or are lucky enough to stay in them, the old tower also contains rooms, with a Sissi Suite as its crowning glory featuring some of the building’s original stone wall.
Down the stairs from the tower are the property’s restaurants. On our first night, we dine at Seeterrasse, a lakeside lodge offering a contemporary take on alpine dining. It’s the more relaxed restaurant serving all-day dining options for those enjoying Schloss Fuschl See Club, the hotel’s lakeside beach club. The wine pairing here is unmatched – as are the views – with the sommelier curating the best that Austrian winemaking has to offer. After starting with bouillabaisse made with Alpine prawn leaving town to head back to the hotel is something we all look forward to. There’s nothing quite like seeing the trees break along the road and reveal the castle at the foot of the hill.
Some of us while away the rest of the afternoon walking the route around the lake while others head to Sisi Teesalon for cake and tea before heading back to get ready for dinner at Schloss Restaurant. Specialising in Salzkammergut cuisine – alpine fare comprising the area’s cheese, smoked hams, breads and ciders – the restaurant takes us through a three-course meal rooted in local produce. First, carrot drizzled in honey arrives with ginger, apricot and Zori cress, before a hearty main of Thalgauer veal fillet with foie gras Bordelaise and spinach mousseline. For anyone who thinks Austrian food only comprises wiener schnitzel, this restaurant proves that is definitely not the case. To finish, the Apricot Pillow: a pillow-shaped pastry encasing apricot, pistachio, rosemary and almond foam.
On the walk back to our rooms, we laugh at the fact that since our arrival, all we’ve done is eat, drink, walk, rest and look. It sounds like nothing. It feels like everything. And perhaps this is what Rosewood Schloss Fuschl is all about – immersing oneself in Austrian country life until you can’t imagine wanting to be anywhere or do anything else.
