There are lots of labels coming out of Ukraine that have been gaining momentum. Bevza, which usually shows during NYFW, is one of them. Designer Svitlana Bevza’s designs are minimalist and her inspiration comes from Cucuteni–Trypillia culture, a Neolithic civilisation in eastern Europe. Robe coats, tunic dresses, twisted knit bras and crochet jackets in a clean, neutral palette with pops of blush pink and pastel yellow, were equal parts covetable and wearable.
Peter Do was a LVMH Prize finalist and a nominee for this year’s CFDA emerging designer award. He’s now available on Net-a-Porter and has quickly made a name for himself for his functional, convertible styles that feel both modern and luxurious. For SS21, expect an array of wonderfully tailored pieces including apron dresses worn over wide-legged trousers and square-toed boots, topped off with oversized handbags.
One of the few designers who hosted an actual vs. digital show, Jason Wu held the first show for his eponymous contemporary line where models walked down a boardwalk reminiscent of a beachside escape in Tulum. The dreamy holiday looks were finished off with sandals created in collaboration with Arizona Love. While the fashion felt seemingly carefree, Wu also made a point to give back during these troubled times by introducing a Distance Yourself From Hate campaign. Creating masks in collaboration with a charity, all profits go towards helping underprivileged families source food and supplies.
Kate and Laura Mulleavy have made Rodarte a go-to label for unique, one-off occasion dresses, and they count Chloe Sevigny, Kirsten Dunst and Elle Fanning as loyal friends of the house. But if 2020 has taught us anything, these gatherings and events can all go away at the drop of a hat. So, the Mulleavy sisters have switched gears without sacrificing aesthetic by creating dreamlike prairie dresses, robes, slips and pyjama co-ords in dainty florals this season. In their feminine yet slightly off-beat style, the looks were finished with elaborate floral veils and sheer lace gloves.
Summer dresses in signature bold colours and prints – Tom Ford was also one to take a more cheerful and lighthearted approach to his post-pandemic collection. Going on holiday may feel ages away, but whether you’re investing in clothes to stay home or for your next escape, Tom Ford has something for you. We’ve seen lockdown-friendly details such as drawstring tops, elastic waistbands, and some borrowed-from-the-boys knits and silk shirts, but of course, in typical Tom fashion, they’re opened right down to the navel. Who says sweats can’t be sexy?
New York label Khaite has quickly developed a cult-like following for their dreamlike feminine styles. For NYFW, they launched a multifaceted shopping experience using AR. The designer, Catherine Holstein, also sent out “presentation boxes” with images of the looks, fabric swatches as well as an AR link to see the shoes right in front of you. While the collection definitely feels sombre in mood and palette, the collection of slim-cut tailoring, figure-hugging and cut-out knit dresses felt of-the-moment practical and oh-so-desirable.