The largest salon to date with 66 brands spanning the full spectrum of watchmaking – from ultra-luxury heavyweights to accessible and mid-tier players – the 2026 edition of Watches and Wonders showed a centuries-old industry experimenting and continuing to push bold, fresh and forward-looking ideas. Stephenie Gee reports
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2026 novelties are a masterclass in precision and rare craftsmanship. Among the key models is the Gyrotourbillon À Stratosphère, which ups the ante on the original 2004 Gyrotourbillon with a new patented triple-axis tourbillon engineered to negate the effects of gravity in 98% of positions. The Calibre 178 powering it all is quite beautiful, too, adorned with perlage, Côtes de Genève, snailing, guillochage, lacquering and even enamelling.
The brand also unveiled the new Master Control Chronometre collection, introducing not only a new aesthetic language centred on a fully integrated metal bracelet, but also a new benchmark in chronometric testing. Presented across three models with differing functions, the collection combines newly developed and existing in-house calibres with a rigorous new certification, the High Precision Guarantee.
Alongside its technical focus, Jaeger-LeCoultre also presented new pieces highlighting its Métiers Rares capabilities. Continuing its homage to Hokusai, one of Japan’s most influential 19th-century artists, the maison completes its Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai Waterfalls cycle by releasing the final four works from Hokusai’s eight-print A Tour of the Waterfalls of the Provinces series. Each limited to 10 pieces, these watches showcase hand-guilloché dials and miniature-painted casebacks.
Similar to the Hokusai editions but more feminine is the haute jewellery La Vallée Des Merveilles Reverso One series. It’s an artistic ode to Pacific islands, showing flora and fauna from Japan and Hawaii. Two of them show a hummingbird visiting a hibiscus flower, while the third shows a crane with cherry blossom.
Oris
While the Aquis, Divers Sixty-Five, Big Crown and ProPilot lines command most of the attention in Oris’s catalogue, the brand harbours some truly fascinating and lesser-known gems. This year, Oris brought this lesser-known section of their catalogue into the spotlight with a refreshed Artelier Complication as well as the revival of the Oris Star Edition.
Their first in-house lever escapement movement, the Oris Star came in 1966, after Oris’s now honorary chairman Dr Rolf Portmann fought against limitations on Swiss watchmaking that were unintentionally established in the 1930s, during the Great Depression. Now, the Star Edition revival represents the same ideals, but with modern finesse. Sized at 35mm, the steel watch features a very vintage size. Inside is the Oris Calibre 733 with 41 hours of power reserve. The watch also has 50m of water resistance and a sunburst dial and chamfered, sloping edges.
Sitting at opposite ends of the brand’s personality, the Artelier Complication returns redesigned from the ground up with a lighter, more architectural touch. Arriving in a 39.5mm stainless case, the dial is subtly finished, with a smooth chapter ring making way to a softly grained centre dial surrounded by modern applied indices and a slender but legible handset. The movement is the Calibre 782, with all the functions adjusted via the crown or a single recessed pusher on the right case flank. The Artelier Complication is available in three dial colours – ivory, midnight blue and chestnut – each on either a dark brown leather strap or a stainless-steel bracelet, both with butterfly clasps.
Panerai
Panerai has returned to its roots with a collection of new Luminors. Drawing inspiration from the legendary 1960s reference 6152/1, the maison revived the essence of its military heritage through hand-wound movements, sandwich dials with Super-Luminova, domed sapphire crystals and the iconic crown-protecting bridge, all rendered in more wearable modern proportions.
The 44mm Luminor PAM01731 captures the vintage spirit in stainless steel with a tobacco-beige dial and pencil hands, while the left-crowned Destro, the PAM01732, features a deep blue dial for a striking nautical contrast. Both are powered by the three-day P.6000 calibre. Extending the long-power-reserve tradition, the Luminor 8 Giorni PAM01733 presents an eight-day movement housed in a distinctive Brunito steel case with an aged, battle-worn PVD finish. The collection also includes the 47mm steel PAM01735 and forged titanium PAM01629.
At the pinnacle stands the Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631, a limited edition of 200 pieces with the new hand-wound P.2031/S calibre. Visually, the 44mm Luminor is crafted from Panerai’s renowned Goldtech alloy. Added to this is an open dial that reveals parts of the movement. The outlier in the collection, the Submersible Navy SEALs Afniotech Experience PAM01089 is available in just 35 pieces. More than just an innovative timepiece, PAM01089 also offers a select few to a three-day immersive experience inspired by the US Navy SEALs.
Parmigiani Fleurier
Parmigiani Fleurier celebrated 30 years of independent watchmaking by continuing what defines it: advancing the mechanical arts. This is expressed through a world first, new mechanical architectures and a collection of limited-edition high-horology timepieces. At the heart of the Tonda PF collection is the Chronographe Mystérieux, a monopusher chronograph with an unprecedented architecture built around five coaxial hands and a triple-clutch system. When at rest, the dial remains clean with no visible subdials or pushers – a single press deploys the chronograph functions, a second stops them and a third makes the indications disappear entirely. Powered by the new in-house PF053 calibre with a 60-hour power reserve, it’s offered in stainless steel with a mineral blue dial as well as a new 40mm rose gold version that brings warm precious-metal refinement to the line.
Complementing this technical achievement is a platinum trilogy of invisible complications, each limited to 30 pieces, that appear only when called upon then withdraw to restore the integrity of the dial. The Tonda PF Chronograph 40mm in 18k rose gold further emphasises purity by removing the date display.
For the brand’s 30th, the Toric collection also receives a trio of anniversary interpretations: the Toric Petite Seconde, Toric Quantième Perpétuel and Toric Chronographe Rattrapante, all featuring handhammered gold dials and fully hand-finished gold movements, elevating the maison’s founding models to the realm of wearable art objects through classical complications rendered with exceptional artisanal presence.
Patek Philippe
The grande dame of Geneva watchmaking, Patek Philippe delivered one of its most ambitious lineups in years at Watches and Wonders. For the 50th anniversary of its cult sports watch, Patek distilled the essence of the Nautilus with four limited editions with a focus on purity, proportions and case slimness. The centrepiece is a trio of ultra-thin models with clean sunburst blue dials featuring the signature horizontal embossing and no date window or centre seconds. These include two 41mm Jumbo references in white gold – one on an integrated bracelet and one on a navy blue composite strap – and an elegant 38mm platinum version on a matching bracelet. All maintain an impressively slim 6.9mm thickness thanks to the self-winding Calibre 240. Completing the anniversary quartet is a spectacular 50.7mm white gold Nautilus desk clock with a blue embossed dial set with baguette diamonds.
Beyond the anniversary celebrations, the 2026 collection introduces the first Patek wristwatch to display the times of sunrise and sunset, the first automaton wristwatch in the brand’s modern history that tells the time only on demand, a technically advanced Cubitus Perpetual Calendar and fresh interpretations across the Twenty~4 and other lines.
Among the rarest creations is the Ref. 5374/400P-001 perpetual calendar/minute repeater. Its platinum case frames a Balinese mother-ofpearl dial set with Paraiba tourmalines – among the rarest gems on Earth, and the reason production cannot exceed eight pieces.
Piaget
This year at Piaget, time took shape through gold, ornamental stones and increasingly sophisticated movements. Its most iconic collection, the Polo received a striking update. The standout is the Polo 79, presented in white gold with a deep-blue sodalite stone dial, its sleek 38mm ultra-thin case powered by the 1200PI ultra-thin self-winding movement. Alongside it, the sport-chic Polo Date models get the signature gadroon treatment across 36mm and 42mm versions, offered in steel or rose gold with electric blue or silver dials and interchangeable straps for versatile everyday wear. The Polo Signature Date also expands across steel and rose gold in new blue dial references.
In the realm of extreme slimness, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon – still just 2mm thick – debuts ornamental stone dials for the first time, with options including tiger’s eye, sodalite, jade and onyx integrated directly into the movement components through meticulous craftsmanship. The Sixtie collection, with its distinctive trapezoid shape inspired by the Swinging Sixties, receives two new versions, both anchored in deep blue. Most sculptural of all are the Swinging Pebbles, three pendant sautoir watches each carved from a single block of ornamental stone – tiger’s eye, verdite or pietersite – hollowed to house a manufacture movement and suspended from a handtwisted gold chain, reviving the maison’s 1970s wearable art heritage in truly one-of-a-kind pieces.
Additional releases include new interpretations in the Andy Warhol collection with bullseye and blue quartz dials, all unified by Piaget’s signature vibrant blues, rich golds and celebration of natural stone textures.
Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis came to Watches and Wonders 2026 with a single, cohesive idea: “Movements of the Sky”. Housed in a 40mm steel case, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar combines the maison’s patented biretrograde display with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic. The striking Cosmic Blue dial adds unexpected depth and dimension. It is powered by the automatic RD840 calibre, finished to meet the demands of the Poinçon de Genève.
A more relaxed take comes with the Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar, driven by the new in-house RD850 calibre with a 60-hour power reserve. The movement is adorned with 19 different finishes, while the dial is composed of nine layers, including Astral Blue mother-of-pearl discs and counters with polished bevels, and retrograde bridges with internally angled finishing.
Under the Rarities programme, the 45mm Excalibur Moonlight places the tourbillon at the very centre of the composition, turning the movement itself into a celestial object. Meanwhile, the Excalibur Perpetual Calendar Quatuor unites the brand’s patented Quatuor and perpetual calendar within a single timepiece for the first time.
The maison also brings a refined feminine expression to its bold Excalibur universe with the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Lady of the Lake, featuring a rose gold case paired with a Sovereign Grey dial with swordshaped hands and a 48-diamond bezel. Completing the lineup are the 28mm Excalibur Brocéliande models in Dawn Rose and Twilight Blue.
Rolex
One hundred years after introducing the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, Rolex marked the Oyster’s centenary with a forward-looking collection rather than nostalgia. The new Oyster Perpetual 41 yellow was presented with a subtle twist on Rolesor. Instead of the usual two-tone execution, yellow gold is reserved for the bezel and Twinlock crown, while the entire bracelet remains in Oystersteel. The slate sunray dial features the inscription “100 years” at 6 o’clock, while the Rolex name and minute track squares are rendered in signature green. The range also expands with a multicoloured lacquer dial displaying the “Rolex” name in a lively Jubilee motif on the 36mm model.
But that’s far from all. In what Rolex positions as one of its two Exceptional Watches for the year, the brand debuted a new Daytona with a white grand feu enamel dial sitting against an anthracite Cerachrom ceramic bezel surrounded by a platinum ring. The other Exceptional Watch is the Day-Date 40 in an entirely new proprietary alloy dubbed Jubilee Gold – a softer, warmer 18k gold blending tender yellow, warm grey and soft pink tones, paired here with a green aventurine dial.
After being discontinued in 2024, the Yacht-Master II also returns to the catalogue with a more balanced dial featuring rounded hour markers and an updated calibre 4162 incorporating the Chronergy escapement for improved performance. Meanwhile, the Datejust 41 evolves through a new green ombré dial, achieved entirely through layered lacquering.
Tag Heuer
In a year dedicated to the chronograph, Tag Heuer unveiled a bold new chapter for one of its most iconic models at Watches and Wonders. Among the most direct heritage plays in the lineup is the newly refined Monaco Chronograph. The 39mm case is now rendered in a lightweight Grade 5 titanium case with improved ergonomics and updated details, powered by the new in-house TH20-11 calibre offering an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Available in striking colourways including blue, green and bi-metal executions, it combines the legendary left-sided crown with modern sporting comfort and a five-year warranty.
Joining it is the groundbreaking Monaco Evergraph. At its core, the Calibre TH80-00, developed by the Tag Heuer Lab after five years of development, features a unique compliant chronograph mechanism with flexible components and a TH-Carbonspring oscillator for superior durability, shock resistance and precision, redefining both performance and tactile experience. The watch comes in two executions, both in 40mm: one in blue-accented titanium and another stealthy black DLC-coated titanium version with bold red accents.
Tag Heuer’s other key statement came through in the Aquaracer Professional 500 Date, extending the brand’s commitment to highperformance tool watches. Weighing just 120 grams, the 42mm piece offers a whopping 500 metres of water resistance, thanks to its grade 2 titanium construction. Two colourways are available, both based around a black, wave-effect lacquered dial and black ceramic bezel insert, with engraved limited-edition casebacks marking each as one of 1,500 pieces.
Tudor
Tudor reinforced its “Born to Dare” philosophy with a confident lineup that celebrates its 100-year legacy through meaningful technical and aesthetic evolution. The standout is the entirely new Monarch collection, debuting with a 39mm faceted stainless steel case, integrated “faceted two-link” bracelet with T-fit clasp and a distinctive “Error-Proof” dial that mixes Roman numerals with Arabic numerals on a textured champagne/papyrus finish. Powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5662-2U with 65-hour power reserve, the Monarch brings a fresh, dressier integrated sports watch option to the brand while nodding to archival design codes.
The sports-chic Tudor Royal collection received its biggest revamp since its 2020 re-introduction. Previously, the Royal was available in 28mm, 34mm, 38mm and 41mm. The 2026 Royal range now spans 30mm, 36mm and 40mm sizes in steel and S&G configurations, joined by expanded dial colours – from classic shades such as black, blue and silver to green, light blue, salmon, burgundy, and mother-of-pearl – revised bracelet integration, and a full suite of in-house manufacture movements: MT5633 in the 40mm, MT5412 in the 36mm and MT5201 in the 30mm. All remain water resistant to 100 metres and feature screw-down crowns and sapphire crystals.
As expected, Tudor also presented several Black Bay designs, including a completely blacked out ceramic variant, refreshed Black Bay 54 in striking “Tudor blue”, slimmer and fully Master Chronometer certified Black Bay 58 and Black Bay 58 GMT with a new five-link bracelet.
Ulysse Nardin
In 2026, Ulysse Nardin celebrates 180 years of legacy and 25 years of the Freak, the icon that redefined modern watchmaking, with the Super Freak. Billed as the most complicated time-only watch ever created, this limited edition of 50 pieces is housed in a 44mm white gold case and powered by the new calibre UN-252. The result of four years of R&D, it comprises 511 components and integrates nearly all the innovations developed across the Freak’s history. At its heart lie twin 10-degree inclined flying tourbillons, twin balance wheels, twin balance springs, twin DIAMonSIL escapements and a newly patented gimbal system that powers the seconds indication. More than 97% of the movement remains in constant motion, reinforcing the Freak’s identity as a kinetic, rather than static, display. With its blue Nanosital hour disc, open sapphire caseback and grey rubber strap, the Super Freak transforms the entire movement into a mesmerising, living display of mechanical artistry.
Vacheron Constantin
From heritage-inspired to modern classics, Vacheron Constantin brought its pursuit of elegance to life with a quintet of new masterpieces. Marking the 30th anniversary of the Overseas collection, the maison introduced Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points, four lightweight titanium travel references in 41mm cases, each featuring a distinct dial colour inspired by the compass directions. Powered by the manufacture Calibre 5110 DT/3 with a 60-hour power reserve, these robust yet refined GMT models embody the maison’s spirit of exploration while maintaining impeccable finishing and the signature Maltese cross bezel.
Complementing this is the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin Calibre 2550, a platinum limited edition of 50 pieces in a 39.5mm case with a striking salmon dial, contrasted by 18k white gold hour markers and hands treated with blue Super-LumiNova. At its heart beats the brand-new Calibre 2550, the result of seven years of R&D and sits at a staggering 2.4mm thick, while still offering 80 hours of power reserve.
If the Overseas is about engineering addition, the new Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Skeleton is about the art of subtraction. This single-piece edition takes the legendary Calibre 2755 and performs open-heart surgery on it. One year of development was dedicated to the transformation of this movement, meticulously skeletonised to remove 40% of its main plate, yet preserving its inherent strength. On the feminine side, the Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom enchants with exquisite artisanal refinement, its dial evoking delicate spring blossoms through intricate métiers d’art techniques paired with a moonphase complication in pink gold.
Finally, the Historiques American 1921 receives a fresh artistic interpretation, preserving its iconic 45-degree offset dial architecture while introducing new dial treatments that blend Roaring Twenties charm with contemporary elegance.
Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled six creations that build on the maison’s long-standing approach to watchmaking as a deeply expressive and romantic art form. The moon has long held pride of place since it first fitted a pocket watch with a moonphase complication. Nearly a century on, the Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune brings that fascination to a 42mm white gold case, where two complications operate in layered concert. A 24-hour rotating disc drives the day/night display, while a separate complication tracks the moon’s 29.5-day cycle. Over the course of a full day, a guilloché golden sun gradually gives way to a white mother-of-pearl moon, rising and falling behind a softly graduated horizon.
Where the Jour Nuit Phase de Lune looks upward, the Midnight Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs turns its attention to the horizontal plane of the globe. The 38mm rose gold Midnight case houses a fully redeveloped automatic movement with a 65-hour power reserve, displaying jumping hours alongside retrograde minutes for two simultaneous time zones on an amber-toned textured dial.
The Extraordinary Dials collection adds the Lady Rencontre Céleste and Lady Retrouvailles Célestes, which play out the legend of Vega and Altair across the dials through a combination of artisanal enamel techniques, miniature painting and gem-setting. Continuing the maison’s tradition of blending jewellery and watchmaking into a single object, the Ludo Secret watch transforms a jewel into a delicate timepiece in yellow gold and blue sapphires, while the refined Perlée watch sparkles with an aventurine glass dial evoking a night sky scattered with countless stars.
Zenith
Zenith celebrated its dual heritage of highfrequency chronometry and pure precision with a focused lineup that spotlighted the iconic El Primero and the revived Calibre 135. The Chronomaster Sport collection gains a fresh twotone execution that adds polish and versatility while retaining its signature athletic character. Limited to 50 pieces, the 41mm case pairs stainless steel with rose gold on the bezel, crown and pushers. The refined dial introduces mother-of-pearl, which creates a fluid play of light beneath the classic overlapping 3-6-9 chronograph counters. Power comes from the El Primero 3600, Zenith’s 5 Hz automatic chronograph calibre, whose central chronograph hand circles the dial once every 10 seconds to display 1/10th of a second directly.
The new Chronomaster Sport Skeleton shifts focus to the mechanics within. Offered in four versions, it includes two stainless steel models with black or green ceramic bezels, an 18k rose gold version with a black bezel, and a limited edition of 10 pieces in rose gold, including a matching bracelet and a bezel set with 50 baguette-cut diamonds.
Meanwhile, the prestigious G.F.J. collection – named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot – gains two elegant new expressions. Limited to 161 pieces, the first is a warm 18k yellow gold model with a mesmerising bloodstone dial. The second is a 20-piece tantalum version with an onyx dial and baguette-cut diamond indexes. Both house the re-engineered Calibre 135, delivering exceptional observatory-level performance with COSC certification and precision within +/- two seconds per day.
