Hong Kong stylist, Declan Chan, is in the City of Lights during one of its most fashionable times of the year. He checks out Schiaparelli, Rick Owens, Roger Vivier and Isabel Marant
My third day navigating Paris fashion week started off with a visit to the Schiaparelli showroom in Hotel D’Évreux – adjacent to the iconic Place Vendome. Within the walls of the 18-century building, Texas-born fashion designer Daniel Roseberry presented his extraordinary ready-to-wear collection. In typical Schiaparelli fashion, the collections shined with exquisite gold details adorned on garments that effortlessly elevated day and evening wear.
Roseberry explains, “It’s couture to live life in, whether life is a dinner party or the office or a flight”. Accessories like the Bijoux Secret Padlock bag reminded me of Schiaparelli’s attention to detail and expressed this idea of garments that can be universally worn in any context. From a skirt and matching Denim jacket to a silk black dress, this casual and sophisticated collection blurs the line between couture and ready-to-wear.
Every Rick Owens fashion show I attend feels like a moment to breathe in, breathe out, and prepare for the unexpected. This collection presented in Palais de Tokyo was more than just unexpected, it was a spectacle that ignited all my senses. Puffy white smoke billowed from the stage while the scent of Rick Owen’s debut Aesop Collaboration filled the air.
The collection titled “EDFU” took inspiration from the expansive history of Egypt and its unbounded remoteness. As models walked down the grand staircase and onto the concrete catwalk, I saw silhouettes with overside pointy shoulders – high turtlenecks that often hid the faces of models – and leather skirts manipulated in obscure forms. Thigh-high gladiator boots were a constant on the catwalk and appeared in various exotic styles of leather.
Midway through the show, two extravagant wedding dresses paraded down the catwalk. Their deep reddish tulle erupted from the model’s bust like the smoke that filled the air. Drama at the show continued with American rapper Machine Gun Kelly making an appearance along with Tyga and Cher. We know Rick Owens as a master of artistic fashion, and this collection truly reinforced that lofty title.
After lunch, I headed to the Roger Vivier presentation. I was amazed to see the interactive showroom highlighted not only the newest collection but also the artisanal savoir-faire of the brand. Creative director Gherardo Felloni spotlighted artisans in each of the venue’s rooms who explained how the heels are expertly developed. From the creation of leather straps to the placement of gems, this experience took me on a thorough journey through the extensive and visionary prosses of crafting a Roger Vivier shoe.
Fusion Energy was at the heart of Chloé’s collection that marks the second chapter of the house’s research into climate solutions. Creative Director Gabriela Hearst conducted extensive research into fusion Energy for this collection that aimed to spotlight the “ITER” tokamak reactor project – one of the world’s most forwarded-thinking energy experiments. While Fusion Energy can’t create fashion, it has the possibility to power its development.
After briskly entering the Pavilion Vendôme, I found my seat that was part of a greater Circular shape arranged to mimic the tokamak reactor. As models started to walk the runway I began to notice the knotted details on garments and bags that had exaggerated lace details. An industrial feeling swept through the collection and could be seen through boxy shoulders, metal fastenings, and oversized eyelets. This Chloé collection had a strong current that flowed throughout garments, just like the energy that inspired its creation.
My evening ended with a visit to Place Colette, next to the charming Palais Royal gardens where Isabel Marant presented their SS23 collection. The highly anticipated show transported me to warm summers by the sea with extra short shorts, micro-dresses, and plenty of exposed belly buttons visible on the catwalk. A perpetuating nonchalant and sporty energy filled the room while models including Gigi and Bella Hadid pranced passed wearing lightweight pastel looks. Ruffled dresses, sparkling sequins, and vibrant colours seamlessly clashed in a collection that reminded me of the joys of summer.