Watches and Wonders 2023: Cartier reinvents the classics
By: David Ho
March 27, 2023
This year, Cartier’s new watch collections reflect the concept of time being cyclical, rather than linear. With this in mind, the Maison revisits and transforms classic timepieces for its showcase at Watches and Wonders 2023
Every year, a rare watch is added to the Cartier Privé collection. The seventh opus in the collection is the Tank Normale. Created in 1917 by Louis Cartier and launched two years later, the new edition of the Tank stays true to the proportions and bevelled sapphire crystal of the original. They have added a skeleton movement to this emblematic model, accompanied by a 24-hour complication marked by a sun and crescent moon that is also skeletonised. It is available in yellow gold on a brown alligator strap and in platinum on a black alligator strap.
Available in a limited run of 50 numbered watches, this skeletonised Tank comes in yellow gold on a brown and green alligator strap with a blue sapphire cabochon on the winding crown or in platinum on a burgundy and grey alligator strap with a ruby cabochon.
Finally, there is a version set with brilliant-cut diamonds featuring an alligator strap in two shades of blue with a brilliant-cut diamond on the winding crown. There are only 20 numbered pieces available.
The latest Santos-Dumont watch features a skeleton movement with structural details that are aviator themed. It is a tribute to Alberto Santos – a man who designed more than 22 flying machines. Its new micro-rotor calibre took the Cartier Manufacture at La Chaux-de-Fonds almost two years to develop and is comprised of 212 components. Usually made in rose gold and steel, the limited edition Santos-Dumont skeleton watch is now in a striking yellow gold and navy lacquer combo.
The Baignoire watch has seen multiple incarnations since its creation in 1912. The latest iteration sees a new alignment of proportions, the dial and its Roman numerals crowned with a richer gold ribbon. The oval of the dial is transposed into a bezel to keep it as close to the wrist as possible. This creates a distinct watch-jewellery hybrid.
The Clash [Un]limited watch uses chromatic contrasts to bring out the geometric motifs. For the limited-edition releases, the Clash [Un]limited watch is available in diamond-paved yellow gold, rose gold and white gold.
Clearly, the inspiration is the panther synonymous with Cartier. Equipped with an ingenious system and no visible hinges, the La Panthère keeps it seamless and sleek. Whether in yellow or rose gold speckled with black lacquer with tsavorite eyes or in diamond-paved white gold with emerald eyes, the bracelet watch is sure to captivate.