Womenswear Spring/Summer 2025 (part 3 of 4)
Apr 01, 2025
Chloe Lyu reports on the Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear collections by major fashion maisons
JW Anderson
Continuing in the whimsical tradition, JW Anderson’s collection used silk, leather and glitter to create unrealistic silhouettes. The bubble skirt was reshaped in delicate satin, and oversized jackets and silk sweatshirts were also notable standalone pieces. Inspired by traditional menswear, the loafer bag made its debut.
Loewe
Jonathan Anderson posed a thought-provoking question with this collection: “What happens when one takes all the noise away?” By stripping things back to the core, the designer highlighted silhouette and craft. In the first three looks, organza dresses printed with Impressionist flowers floated in midair.
Loro Piana
Linen was the protagonist of this collection, artfully blended with other heirloom fibres, achieving textural complexity. The iconic field jacket was redesigned in a pecan syrup hue in plongé leather. The Ghiera tote was also launched, featuring a signature leather grid and a closure for volume adjustment.
Louis Vuitton
Nicolas Ghesquière presented a contrasting wardrobe with this collection, rethinking the standards of “soft power” in fashion. The hybrid silhouettes and dreamlike prints were inspired by artist Laurent Grasso. The season’s handbag style was also updated, featuring the same East-West shape as the Speedy but with softer leather for a more casual effect.
Max Mara
Inspired by the 4th-century mathematician and philosopher Hypatia of Alexandria, Ian Griffiths delved into the geometry of fashion, bringing a trigonometric twist to his collection’s tailoring and trench coats. The sleek silhouette of the jacket featured a new sharp, square and narrow shoulder shape.
McQueen
Inspired by the mysterious banshee rooted in McQueen’s history and Seán McGirr’s own Irish folk culture, this collection shone with tailoring subverts of the British suit, hand-stitched cobweb lace details, and cursive collars on Jermyn Street shirts. Ending with a crystal-covered look, it symbolised a guiding force for the future of McQueen under McGirr.
Miu Miu
This collection by Miuccia Prada explored Miu Miu’s collaborations with artists, investigating the brand’s dialogue in the mediums of art, cinema and fashion. White cotton dresses became canvases for her reinterpretation, as she deconstructed classic pieces. Most eye-catching were the disheveled tube-style tops, with sweaters wrapped into tops and shirts twisted and knotted.
Prada
Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada have been rewriting the rules of fashion. This latest collection showed many of their basics in all sorts of weird ways, with a sequined dress paired with a yellow raincoat, coats made of shiny black leather fusing with pink nylon, and leggings in sock-like material.
