SIHH 2019: Jaeger-LeCoultre
May 24, 2019
Entering into the enchanting forest inspired by Vallée de Joux where Jaeger-LeCoultre history is rooted, with a star-studded cast from Hollywood including actors Amanda Seyfried, Nicholas Hoult and Daniel Bruhl.
Jaeger-LeCoultre, founded in 1833, has never stopped revolutionizing the disruption in fine watch making. With 186 years of expertise and skill, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created more than 1,200 watch calibres and has over 400 registered patents within their maison. During this year’s SIHH, Jaeger-LeCoultre proudly presents one of my favorite timepieces, the incredible Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillion Westminster Perpétuel! Wow! And what a name and is only limited to 18-pieces. In creating a smaller tourbillon, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a truly wearable Gyrotourbillon, bringing high complication out of the watch safe and onto the wrist for everyday enjoyment.
The Westminster chime, which reminds me of my childhood days back at boarding school in England with the melody of the Big Ben clock from the Palace of Westminster, uses four sets of gongs and hammers to indicate the quarters when the minute repeater is activated. It also has a silence-reduction function built into its chiming mechanism. This ensures that even when the full set of Westminster quarters is not struck, there is no time delay corresponding to the missing quarters before the minutes are struck.
In every instance of the chime when the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel is activated, the hour strikes, quarter strikes and minute strikes are seamless.
Precision lies at the heart of the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel, with a one-minute constant-force mechanism that provides a consistent level of power for the energy-hungry tourbillon without affecting its chronometric ability. The constant-force mechanism consists of a spring, known classically as a remontoir d’égalité, that is periodically re-armed by the mainspring and acts as a secondary power source to protect the regulating organ of the movement.
The constant-force mechanism has an additional advantage. It regulates the motion of the minute wheel, creating a jumping minutes hand that offers greater precision in time display. More significantly, the mechanism that controls the minute strike also follows this one-minute jumping system, which completely eliminates the chiming error that can occur when the repeater is activated between minutes, when the chime played and the time shown can be one minute apart.
As the name suggests, the perpetual calendar is designed to work in perpetuity. It automatically displays the correct date without the need for manual adjustment between months of different lengths. It even takes into account the extra day at the end of February during leap years. The most common configuration of the perpetual calendar mechanism can only be adjusted in one direction, but the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel emphasizes the experience and convenience of the user, and its date can be adjusted forwards or backwards without harming the movement. The pointer-style date indication further reinforces the precision aspect of the timepiece, as it jumps over the tourbillon aperture in order to provide the best possible view of the visually stunning rotating escapement.
Jaeger-LeCoultre reveals another three new Master Ultra-Thin Enamel: the Moon Enamel, the Perpetual Enamel and the Tourbillion Enamel. All three are finished with blue guilloche enamel dial with white gold and are all limited-edition at 50-piece for Tourbillon and 100-piece each for Moon and Perpetual Enamel.
And finally, something for the ladies, the Rendez-Vous collection has been reimagined with The Art of Precision Theme. Precision in action. Precision in design. Even at a glance, these new versions show a stunning richness of detail with elements that fully adhere to the codes of High Jewellery: the addition of a prong setting, a new vision of moon phases, the distinct character of diamonds and mother-of-pearl, and the redesign of Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibres 898B and 925A. More than ever, the new models of the Rendez-Vous collection are imbued with the spirit of fine watchmaking, inside and out.
Rendez-Vous is redefining the Night & Day Jewellery with their Calibre 898b/1. Available in white or pink gold with alligator leather straps (in shades of blue or taupe), the Rendez-Vous Night & Day Jewellery watch sets the stage for an all-new vision of the iconic Night & Day function. The Rendez-Vous includes 186 diamonds (approx. 3.52 carats) and the mother-of-pearl shines with a sea-of-clouds effect. The watch comes in 36mm case finished in white gold or pink gold. The day/night indicator moves across a starry sky of mother-of-pearl within a 6 o’clock aperture. The three rows of sparkling diamonds unfurl gracefully, the effect only further enhanced by the brilliance of the iridescent surface. The precious bezel, set with 126 diamonds, shines with stunning radiance. Another row of 47 smaller diamonds is nestled away gently inside the dial, while the lugs are also set with 12 diamonds. A single diamond adorns the inverted cabochon, for the perfect finishing touch of refinement.
On the other hand, the Rendez-Vous Moon Jewellery uses a different caliber 925B/1 for the moon phase in 36mm case showcasing a new vision of moon phases to enhance the new model with femininity at 6’oclock. This watch also has 186 diamonds (approx. 3.52 carats) and comes in white gold with mother-of-pearl dial.