Haley Sengsavanh and Stephenie Gee report on the menswear spring/summer 2024 collections by major fashion maisons
Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani referenced his own archives with a timeless collection that “surely recalls the past, without making it all about the past”. His first- ever menswear looks in 1975 incorporated lots of raffia, which makes a return in the form of a close-up print on wide-leg trousers, blazers with matching vests and more. Accessorised with straw hats, slingback loose-weave espadrilles and silk scarves, this was the perfect wardrobe for a weekend getaway.
Gucci
This 20-look collection created a liminal space between the brand’s history and its future. It juxtaposed elegant three-piece suits and ’70s-style bootcut jeans with bold modern pieces like a shirt covered in an inventive 3D-rendered horsebit print. Other standouts included a shiny oversized hoodie and shorts outfit made from fabric woven with silver threads, and a denim ensemble thermo-encrusted with mirror tiles for a disco-ball effect.
Hermès
Véronique Nichanian presented a contemporary collection designed for languid summer days, when “the allure is unequivocally sensual”. She dressed models in short shorts and sheer grid-patterned shirts, but maintained an Hermès elegance by pairing them with light knit outerwear and pants held up by double-strap stirrup belts.
Isabel Marant
Artistic director Kim Bekker said this collection is “a bit crafty, but it’s a constructive craftiness”. She used a variety of colours (electric yellow, baby pink, bright purple), textures (mohair knits, denim, fleece), and patterns (Japanese tie-dye, leopard print, pixels) to make her point. The classic workwear silhouettes grounded the collection, preventing it from being too abstract and keeping it perfectly wearable.
Jacquemus
Fittingly staged at King Louis XIV’s Palace of Versailles, the Le Chou Chou collection showcased historical fashion with a Jacquemus twist. The elegant and classic pieces included a white dinner suit jacket covered in beaded fringe and more experimental garments like a white lace technical vest paired with puffy peplum-waisted trousers.
Jil Sander
This statement-making collection introduced new silhouettes and fun detailing to the Jil Sander lineup. It was apparent that Lucie and Luke Meier felt the freedom to experiment, presenting massive boxy clutches tucked under the arm, unique oversized trench coats with cape sleeves and adding chunky rhinestone necklaces to top it all off.
JW Anderson
Jonathan Anderson tapped into his lived experiences to create a perception-altering collection chock full of eccentric knitwear, demonstrating how “things that are around you…become part of you subconsciously”. The thickly knotted woven ensembles referenced the ’70s sofa in his office, the choppy fringe tops in pink, white and red resembled mop heads, and the rugby shirts were a loving tribute to his father’s career as captain of the Ireland rugby union team.
Kenzo
This romantic collection explored the modern revival of Japanese city pop and marked a new collaboration between creative director Nigo and graphic designer and Blackpink artistic director Verdy. The East-meets-West concept was perfectly executed in pieces like judo uwagi-style blazers emblazoned in red with “Kenzo Paris”, hakama-style wide pants, and the ancient Seigaiha wave motif printed on indigo denim.
Lanvin
This collection put a modern twist on the 1920s aesthetic, with long black gloves worn under embroidered celadon jackets and striped button-up shirts. Highlights included a red dress shirt with cream guipure detailing on the sides and a sleeveless cream top with a large panel of red lace on the front.
Loewe
Jonathan Anderson’s expertly curated SS24 menswear show was a delightfully quirky triumph. Jeans and long-sleeve polos were covered in crystals, high- waisted pants got extended up to the chest and a grey sweater had geometric squares jutting out as if it was glitching in real time. Anderson also created abstract tops that looked like large swatches of vintage upholstery with an equally large pin jutting out the top.
Louis Vuitton
Pharrell Williams’ first collection at Louis Vuitton was a fun-filled crowd pleaser. Oh-so-effortlessly- cool pieces like a bright yellow LV monogrammed fur coat and pearl-encrusted bomber jackets were accessorised with tiny sunglasses, berets and an excellently excessive amount of gold jewellery. Williams also introduced his take on the iconic LV Damier chessboard pattern, combining it with camo to create Damouflage.
