Haley Sengsavanh and Stephenie Gee report on the menswear spring/summer 2024 collections by major fashion maisons
Alexander McQueen
To sum up this collection in three words: refined, tailored and artistic. The suits were impeccably fitted with a new- school twist (rounded shoulders and archival McQueen-inspired softly appliquéd harnessing). This collection also included three- dimensional hand-crocheted knit tops and chiaroscuro flower embroidery à la Dutch Old Master paintings. The black or white fabric seemingly splattered in gold paint made the models look like walking works of art.
Balenciaga
In true Demna Gvasalia fashion, this collection was cheeky and bordering on absurdist. Balenciaga-branded passports turned out to be wallets, leather tote bags were made to look like well-worn grocery bags, and models carried shoes that were actually clutch bags. This tongue-in-cheek attitude was evident in the clothing too, with garments like ridiculously oversized blazers that pooled onto the floor.
Balmain
For this collection, Olivier Rousteing was inspired by founder Pierre Cardin’s travels across Asia and incorporated the latter’s lucky hirondelle (swallow) motif from the archival 1950s couture collections. Highlights included black blazers upgraded with colourful patterned lapels, and gold-embellished jackets inspired by those brought back to the US by combat personnel from Vietnam, South Korea and Japan.
Berluti
This season, Berluti launched a classic and stylish collection in two instalments: Vibrant Luxury and Iconic Summer. The former was slightly more formal, including pieces like a lush midnight-blue blazer made from suede and tech wool. In contrast, the latter was more relaxed, with pieces including breezy linen shirts patterned with the brand’s leather goods selection and with its signature Scritto pattern on the breast pocket.
Burberry
Creative director Daniel Lee’s latest collection was full of chic and easy garments that were crisply tailored and absolutely enviable. Standout pieces included a green military shirt with silver chains printed across it, a grey micro turtlenecked vest and a pair of low-waisted royal blue slacks held up by a thick black leather belt with a massive silver Burberry Prorsum logo buckle.
Celine
Delusional Daydream was grungy yet chic and proto-punk yet classy. Hedi Slimane’s New York youth culture inspiration shone through in the edgy styling and pieces like lambskin skinny jeans, a cropped leather vest with side lace-up details and a white beaded lattice top. The halter necklines and huge pink satin bow added a feminine touch to the experimental attitude of the collection.
Craig Green
There was more than meets the eye with Craig Green’s sculptural, emotional and intimate 10th-anniversary collection. The “padded men’’ were made of functional PVC and modelled after wrestling practice dolls, a strong statement on human interaction and being used. This was followed by floor- length colour-coordinated knit ensembles and, lastly, his “awning men” in decorative sweeping striped garments.
Dior Men
To celebrate five years at Dior Men, Kim Jones paid tribute to three of his predecessors: Yves Saint Laurent, Gianfranco Ferré and Marc Bohan. Additionally, Jones designed sweaters using Dior’s classic cannage pattern, based on the rattan chairs guests sat on for the house founder’s first salon show in 1947. References like the jewelled embroidery and bouclé tweed didn’t feel dated when juxtaposed with the neon colours and short hemlines.
Dries Van Noten
This season, Dries Van Noten went for a more streamlined approach, limiting his usual smattering of patterns to a few abstract 1970s-esque prints. The gorgeous colour story consisted of copper, vermillion, eggplant purple and navy blue, which only served to enhance the groovy feel. An array of unique pieces like long silk coats and gold sequin shorts got expertly layered into 60 eye-catching ensembles.
Dunhill
“I’m about embracing a kind of handsome, masculine sensibility with a sensitive approach,” said freshly appointed Dunhill creative director Simon Holloway. This collection definitely aligned with his vision, including standout pieces like a brown suede blouson and a navy shirt jacket with cigar pockets as an homage to the brand founder’s tobacconist’s shop that opened in 1907.
Fendi
Silvia Venturini Fendi’s latest collection honoured the artisans who work at the brand’s new leather-goods factory just outside of Florence. Leather and denim work aprons were layered atop matching shorts, while tool belts became trendy micro skirts that were layered atop slacks. The collection also included nods to the landscape surrounding the building, with garments coloured with natural dyes like nettle and covered in embroidered flora from the local ecosystem.
Ferragamo
This season, Maximilian Davis honoured the label’s Italian roots with a streamlined and luxurious collection. The perfectly put-together looks included a bold emerald green shirt with a matching leather bag, a full suit made from black leather and a cropped utilitarian bomber jacket paired with shorts.
