Zaneta Cheng checks out Shiatzy Chen’s looks for its Autumn/Winter 2023 collection
This was Shiatzy Chen’s first runway show after the pandemic and Madame Wang presented us with a collection inspired by love and affection. Called Heartstrings, the collections drew from traditional Chinese purses that women would embroider for their loved ones, the delicate silk strings and pouches all symbolise well-wishes and hopes for happiness. Swirling Ruyi patterns for prosperity, flowers for love and golden melons for longevity all contributed to the collection we saw at the Palais de Tokyo this March.
In fact, heartstrings were tugged even before the models hit the runway. Longtime friend of the brand and first Asian actor to win the Oscar for Best Actress, Michelle Yeoh, was also in the audience dressed in a blue sequin mini dress with black stiletto boots and sunglasses. Needless to say, it took quite a bit of persuading for guests to put away their cameras and return to their seats.
The collection comprised 60 looks of Shiatzy Chen’s signature simple, tailored silhouettes and oriental cuts. Signature mandarin collars were rendered in different lengths in silks and tweeds. Eastern influences like the mamian skirt and diagonal lapels featured against sleeveless spaghetti straps and Western jacquard and lace.
Spot the embroidered purses hanging off midi skirts that otherwise demonstrate utilitarian design influences as well as draping detail on dresses that draw from the attachment of purse to garment.
It wouldn’t be Shiatzy Chen without their modern reinvention of Chinese folkloric symbols like the phoenix and abstract cloud patterns. Rendered in sumptuous jacquards, velvets, silks and leather, the opulent collection once again takes the fusion between East and West to new horizons.