Gloria Gao, Silver Hu and Zeyi Yang report on the spring/summer 2026 womenswears collections from major fashion maisons

Balenciaga

For spring/summer 2026, Pierpaolo Piccioli drew inspiration from Cristóbal Balenciaga’s iconic 1957 Sack Dress, engaging the house’s heritage with restraint rather than spectacle. The collection balanced
multiple creative legacies, blending futuristic cuts and unconventional materials reminiscent of Nicolas Ghesquière with Demna’s exaggerated sunglasses and oversized proportions. Classic equestrian hats grounded the experimentation, resulting in a poised dialogue between archival reverence, contemporary rebellion and quiet innovation.

Balmain

Olivier Rousteing rooted his latest collection in personal memory, describing it as a Continuum connecting his vision to Balmain’s heritage. Childhood experiences by the sea inspired a spirit of lightness and freedom. Beach-inflected hues such as sand, coral and driftwood appeared alongside fluid fabrics and feminine silhouettes. Airy construction emphasised movement and emotional ease, expressing joy, authenticity and a renewed sense of creative harmony throughout the collection.

Burberry

Daniel Lee anchored Burberry’s SS26 collection in the intersection of fashion and music, channeling the spontaneity of outdoor festivals and British summer energy. The trench coat reemerged in turquoise with delicate tassels swaying gently with each step, while reimagined checks blended multitone palettes with Persian motifs. These visual collisions animated swimsuits and hooded jackets, creating dynamic tension between tradition and modernity, grounded in relaxed, expressive storytelling.

Chanel

Chanel’s runway shirts were produced in collaboration with Charvet, referencing Mademoiselle Chanel’s historic patronage of the Parisian shirtmaker. MatthieuBlazy preserved classic proportions while integrating chain-weight detailing for contemporary structure. Tailoring balanced masculine precision with feminine refinement. Low-waisted, knee-length dresses reinforced the relaxed elegance of the collection, presenting a modern interpretation of intimacy, heritage and craftsmanship through disciplined yet wearable silhouettes.

Dior

Drama and imagination defined Dior’s SS26 narrative through sculptural volumes and architectural lines inspired by 18th-century crinolines. Twisted pleats, exaggerated bows and structured silhouettes introduced theatrical impact, balanced by accessible pieces including fringed denim miniskirts, patterned lace suits and sculptural handbags featuring the house’s new logo. The collection aligned couture fantasy with commercial clarity, sustaining Dior’s heritage while broadening its contemporary appeal.

Chloé

Soft floral crop tops inspired by the 1950s and ’60s were paired with highwaisted tailored trousers to create light seasonal contrast. The house’s signature lightweight trench coat emerged as a centrepiece, styled with apron-like midlength skirts tied at the side. Layering emphasised drape and motion while preserving a romantic bohemian spirit, balancing structure and softness through subtle manipulation of volume and proportion.

Dries Van Noten

The season celebrated sunlight and elemental summer energy through fluid layering and expressive prints. A cream car coat paired with bright red sneakers balanced refinement and ease. Water-inspired textures appeared in ruffled jersey jumpsuits and sheer dresses. Signature prints spanned heavy outerwear to striped robes, while geometric patterns layered sequins and vortex motifs, producing controlled visual richness across the collection’s dynamic compositions.

Fendi

Fendi replaced restrained minimalism with youthful exuberance, embracing saturated colour and floral expression. Sequined handbags provided radiant focal points, while wrinkled leather and wooden bead details added tactile depth. The Peekaboo bag received a playful reinterpretation that echoed the collection’s joyful tone. Craftsmanship remained central, but the mood shifted toward energetic optimism and decorative experimentation across accessories and ready-to-wear.

Ferragamo

The collection opened with speakeasyinspired suits defined by streamlined silhouettes and silk scarf accents. Leopard and zebra prints appeared in lightweight dresses and semi-sheer shirts, while striped tailoring adopted a celebratory spirit. Tassels and zoot-suit references evoked Harlem Renaissance decadence, blending vintage glamour with theatrical flair. The result balanced nostalgic elegance with expressive modernity and confident sensuality.

Giorgio Armani

The beloved Mediterranean island Pantelleria informed Giorgio Armani’s final personally designed collection, translating volcanic landscapes and sea blues into fluid lines and airy textures.Slender silhouettes conveyed lightness and restraint, while a palette of neutrals, gemstone tones and earth hues reflected natural harmony. The collection expressed quiet sophistication and emotional clarity, emphasising serenity and timeless elegance through minimal construction and refined material handling.

Gucci

Demna’s inaugural Gucci collection amplified sensuality and maximalism through historical material fusion.
Brocade, jacquard, velvet, lace layering, rhinestones and embroidery reinterpreted Italian sprezzatura with theatrical polish. The brand’s salon-style staging reinforced cultivated nonchalance executed with precision. The collection positioned Gucci as boldly expressive while preserving craftsmanship-driven elegance rooted in cultural continuity and visual excess.

Hermès

With the theme “summer in the city”, Hermès emphasised breathable fabrics and understated urban refinement. Soft brown monochromes accented with vivid green created a restrained modern palette. Leather – traditionally seasonal – was reimagined as a summer material,highlighting innovation without sacrificing craftsmanship. The collection balanced functionality and luxury, deliveringquiet sophistication suited for warmweather metropolitan living.

Isabel Marant

Set against a desert landscape, Isabel Marant’s SS26 collection followed a journey-driven narrative. Patchwork shirt coats layered over multi-pocket cargo trousers were cinched with double belts, establishing utilitarian momentum. Signature bohemian codes evolved into textured flight jackets, sheer vests and metallic knitwear. The collection balanced nomadic practicality with sensual lightness, capturing motion, freedom and an adventurous spirit through layered silhouettes and tactile contrasts.

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