Menswear Autumn/Winter 2024 (part 1 of 4)

Olivia Bullock and Abby Li report on the Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collections by major fashion maisons

Balmain

Olivier Rousteing and maximalism now go hand in hand; as the designer proclaims, “I’m not a quiet man.” Rousteing’s collection featured a whole lot of eyes, lips and faces. A crystal topcoat featured an AI-generated face and, playing with the image of lips, he mused, “So many people laugh about my lips.” So, in classic Rousteing style, he created lip brooches, suiting, shirt prints, crystal bracelets and even lip-toed shoes. Clearly proud of his production, Rousteing said, “Luxury has many meanings... and this is screaming luxury.” 

Berluti

Given the brand is renowned for its incredible accessories, it comes as no surprise that Berluti’s clothing collection appears to be an extension of its bags and footwear. This season’s shoe collection included but was not limited to the Alessandro, the Andy and Oxfords, in addition to a newly designed square-style shoe. Sticking to its luxury roots, the French brand also obliged with a cashmere gilet and corduroy-style trucker jacket; Berluti once again elevated the everyday. 

Brioni

This season’s collection served as a further expression of Brioni’s foundational principles: weightlessness, ease and precision. Traversing earthy shades of vicuña, camel, coffee brown, midnight blue and desaturated notes of black with accents of white, the offer comprised enveloping coats, blazers, fluid trench coats, and jackets with leather detailing. Lightweight duvets, trousers with fuller volumes, and knitwear emphasised freedom of movement while field jackets, blousons and anoraks hinted at leisure- and activewear. 

Also see: The highlights of Paris Fashion Week 2024 so far

Burberry 

Creative Director Daniel Lee strived to broaden the scope of the spirit of Burberry to all, embracing old and new generations alike. Reflecting the great British outdoors, the earthy- toned collection featured Chelsea topcoats, moleskin trenches, brown and black long shearlings, and deep V sweaters. Lee’s modern take on British tailoring once again displayed his limitless vision while staying true to the luxury house’s British roots. 

Celine

Hedi Slimane transported the runway to the highway in the Mojave Desert, presenting the fashion world with a cinematic masterpiece. He exhibited his signature looks of fitted leather trousers and jackets, narrow riffs on tuxedos, and pussy-bow neckties. Elsewhere in the collection, he explored proportions through nipped blazers, shortened lapels and billowing capes. Never forgetting his love of Parisian savoir-faire, Slimane added crystals to overcoats, and a plethora of sequins to tailored looks The artistic director’s exquisite craftsmanship once again exceeded expectations. 

Dior 

Kim Jones, artistic director of Dior menswear, dedicated the autumn/winter show to
his late uncle Colin Jones, a dancer with the British Royal Ballet, as well as his late father David Jones. While Romeo and Juliet ball-scene music set a dramatic tone, daywear pieces flooded the runway with all-in- one short suits, tied together with ballet-pump-style shoes and side-knotted turbans. Also drawing inspiration from ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev, the show featured beaded tunics, T-shirts and kimono. 

Dries Van Noten

Exploring the “elegance of the unexpected”, Dries Van Noten displayed a different take on men’s tailoring, adding “rustic” elements to classic suiting. What he termed the “familiar unfamiliar, unfamiliar familiar” saw models displaying single-arm sweater looks and throwing knitted arm- warmers in the mix, along with leather T-shirts and even ballet- style leather shoes. We can all take a sigh of relief – formal shoes are making a comeback in menswear and Van Noten is paving the way. 

Also see: The highlights of Paris Fashion Week 2024 (part 2)