The largest salon to date with 66 brands spanning the full spectrum of watchmaking – from ultra-luxury heavyweights to accessible and mid-tier players – the 2026 edition of Watches and Wonders showed a centuries-old industry experimenting and continuing to push bold, fresh and forward-looking ideas. Stephenie Gee reports
A. Lange & Söhne
In an ocean of new releases, A. Lange & Söhne stood out with two exceptional calendar watches: the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” and the Saxonia Annual Calendar. Though distinct in approach, both pieces showcase the very best of German watchmaking, delivering minimal design paired with outstanding technical depth.
The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” is the headline act, combining a tourbillon, perpetual calendar and moonphase display in a limited run of 50. Housed in a 950-platinum case, the transparent sapphire dial allows U V light to continuously charge the luminous elements beneath it. The timepiece also
comes with the new and highly complex calibre L225.1 automatic movement, and a 50-hour power reserve. The result is a watch that reads beautifully by day and transforms into something genuinely spectacular at night.
The Saxonia Annual Calendar is a very different proposition, and arguably more wearable. At 36mm in diameter and just 9.8mm tall, it is compact enough to slip under a shirt cuff. Time and date can be easily perceived at a glance of the auxiliary dials, while the big date resides in the heavens. Available in white and pink gold variants, both models are paired with a hand-stitched alligator leather strap with a prong buckle.
Audemars Piguet
Under the stewardship of CEO Ilaria Resta, Audemars Piguet made its highly anticipated return to Watches and Wonders with the launch of Atelier des Établisseurs, which reinterprets 18th-century établissage through three highly collaborative, craft-driven timepieces. These one-of-a-kind creations masterfully blend ancestral techniques with contemporary artistic expression.
Inspired by stones found on the shores of the Lac de Joux near AP’s Le Brassus headquarters, Établisseurs Galets is a pebble-shaped 14k yellow gold watch built around a turquoise stone dial and a fluid bracelet made of irregular, stone-set links connected via tiny ball joints. Inside, the Calibre 3098 follows the shape of the case and features bridges grained by hand.
The Nomade shifts the format entirely. A transformable timepiece that can be worn, carried or placed on a tabletop, it features the impressive Calibre 7501, skeletonised using a traditional hacksaw technique that Audemars Piguet has preserved since the 1930s.
Finally, the Peacock takes a dive into automaton territory as a secret watch. When closed, the 18k white gold case displays a finely engraved beetle. At the simple push of a button, the wings and head unfurl to reveal a miniature peacock. A finely hand-engraved translucent enamel dial appears between the wings, representing the animal’s tail. In a window, the dragging hour is displayed, powered by the Calibre 3098.
Baume & Mercier
This year, Baume & Mercier highlighted both classic Swiss watchmaking and the women’s jewellery watch. The new Joia de Baume & Mercier is rooted in the brand’s history of creating watches for women since 1918. Among the four models, the limitedproduction M0A10850 stands out for deftly bridging the worlds of heritage and modernity. The 28mm watch draws on a design from the 1980s, reinterpreted with a bezel set with 40 brilliant-cut diamonds, silvery dial with crisscrossed satin-brushed finishing and stainless-steel bracelet decorated with flattened links that echo the dial’s patterning.
At the same time, Baume & Mercier continues to develop its men’s collections with updates to Classima and Clifton. The former includes a structured “Grain d’Orge” dial as well as quartz versions, which are differentiated by dial colors, indices and strap options in leather or steel. Elsewhere, the maison introduces the Riviera 73 – a new chapter in one of its most iconic collections. First introduced in 1973, the Riviera was among the earliest sport-chic watches. With Riviera 73, the maison returns to those original codes, refining them for today. The three new 39mm models, powered by quartz movements, bring clarity and balance to the dial, while subtle details – from the softened geometry to the engraved “73” caseback – nod to the collection’s origins. The result is a watch that feels both faithful to its past and sharply attuned to the present.
Bremont
Building on a legacy defined by air, sea and land, Bremont has ascended to the cosmos with a new Supernova collection. Created in collaboration with Astrolab, the line debuts with the Supernova Chronograph, which is destined to land at the lunar south pole in summer 2026. The 41mm case is a geometric take on Bremont’s signature “Trip-Tick” architecture, crafted from high-lusture 904L steel with a DLC-coated middle section and a decahedral black ceramic bezel. Designed to reference the illusion of movement through space, the dial glows from beneath, with a perforated black galvanic grid set over a full blue-emission Super-LumiNova base.
A step up from the Supernova Chronograph is the Supernova Tourbillon. The fully skeletonised design displays the movement bridges and tourbillon cage around a black ceramic bezel and sapphire crystal, with red jewels providing the Supernova’s only splash of colour. Dramatically, the markers, bridges, Dauphine hands and tourbillon’s three markers glow with a blue Super-LumiNova, reinforcing the watch’s space-inspired theme.
If the Supernova Tourbillon is aimed at the future, then the new Altitude Chronograph Pulsometer has a distinctly vintage feel. Limited to just 40 examples, it features a restored vintage Valjoux 23 movement, sourced and hand-finished in collaboration with the renowned highhorology atelier Chronode. It comes complete with a salmon-pink dial with a pulsometer scale, and is supplied on a chocolate brown nubuck strap.
Bvlgari
Bvlgari has continued to refine its distinctive design language that masterfully blends architecture, engineering and jewellery, including a follow-up of its GPHG-winning 20-piece entry from last year. Limited to just 10 pieces, the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum remains the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon at 1.85mm thick. The skeletonised dial, accented with blue elements, reveals the ultra-thin caliber BVL 900, a manually wound movement operating at 4 Hz with a 42-hour reserve.
Complementing it is a fresh 37mm Octo Finissimo series that refines the iconic octagonal design for greater versatility and wearability. Rather than a downsizing of the original 40mm version, it has been thoughtfully
reworked. In particular, the junction between the case and the bracelet has been redesigned, and the clasp has enhanced ergonomics. These models measure a still-slim 6.45mm and are powered by newly developed ultra-thin in-house movements with 72-hour power reserve.
The Serpenti family also evolves with the Serpenti Tubogas Studs Capsule, with bold gold-and-steel contrasts. Joining it are two new Serpenti Aeterna: one adorned with over 100 coloured stones and a more restrained yellow gold version. Together, these pieces reinforce Bvlgari’s signature fusion of Roman artistry and Swiss precision.
Cartier
Drawing on over a century of groundbreaking design, Cartier’s latest novelties include the return of the Roadster, originally launched in 2002 with its aerodynamic curves inspired by mid-century sports cars. It keeps the sleek, sporty silhouette while adding a more streamlined case, four bezel rivets and a flexible new bracelet with the QuickChange system.
One of the most collectible shaped watches since 1912, the Tortue makes a comeback in eight new references. These include five everyday models, a more formal diamond-set platinum evening version and two incredible Panthère Mêtiers d’Art Tortue watches. All showcase a more voluminous case profile with softer, more generous lines, and an embossed dial with Roman numerals and minimalist dots.
But the headline act is the Privé triptych. For its 10th Opus, Cartier Privé takes on three icons at once – the Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir and Crash Squelette – all housed in platinum with the maison’s signature burgundy details. Accompanying them is Privé – La Collection, a permanent range unifying past Privé shapes in yellow gold with golden dials, blued-steel apple hands and dark grey alligator straps. Other highlights include the Baignoire, reworked through the Clous de Paris motif; Santos Dumont with its supple new bracelet inspired by the flexibility of the maison’s made-tomeasure metal watch straps from the 1920s; and Myst de Cartier, whose novel bead-like form bridges the gap between jewellery and watchmaking.
Chanel
At watches andWonders 2026, Chanel didn’t simply present watches – it reframed what a watch could be. Spearheading the showcase was the Coco Game capsule, led by a pièce unique ceramic chessboard where Gabrielle Chanel assumes the mantle as the board’s two diamond-studded queens, with time hidden beneath her figure. The theme extends into limited editions across the range, including a diamond-set J12 X-Ray with the skeleton Calibre 3.1, J12 Coco Game models featuring a laser-cut carbon Mademoiselle as the lightweight seconds hand gliding over a diamond-indexed dial, a Boy·Friend with Mademoiselle as the Queen of Hearts and a Game Boy – inspired long necklace with a diamond Mademoiselle.
Beyond the gaming theme, the house unveiled its Mademoiselle Privé Bouton Lion secret watches and the Monsieur Lion Tourbillon Black Edition, limited to just 55 pieces. Built around the Calibre 5.1 movement, this is Chanel at its most technical, most assertive, centred on a flying tourbillon capped with an emblematic lion’s head.
The J12 line too has been expanded over a range of fresh sizes and colourways. First presented in 2025, the Première Galon watch riffs off another of Chanel’s most iconic motifs: the braid trim. It is joined by new iterations of the Première watch, the first timepiece Chanel released in 1987. Last but not least, the new Noeud de Camélia collection sits at the crossroads of haute couture and haute horlogerie, reinterpreting Coco Chanel’s beloved camellia flower as elegant bows across four wristwatches and one secret ring watch in black and white, variously festooned with glittering diamonds.
Chopard
Thirty years after establishing its Fleurier Manufacture, Chopard’s latest lineup makes a case for refinement over excess. This is clearest in the L.U.C 1860 Chronometer in Lucent Steel, a refined anniversary piece that preserves the spirit of the original L.U.C 1860 while integrating the technical progress achieved over the past three decades. The watch features a hand-guilloché “Areuse Blue” dial, a micro-rotor movement and the prestigious Poinçon de Genève certification. The movement inside is the chronometer-certified L.U.C Calibre 96.40-L, a direct evolution of the very first movement conceived and produced by Chopard Manufacture in 1996.
A collector favourite since its release in 2019, the Alpine Eagle collection continues to evolve with the release of four new variations rooted in its alpine inspiration. A standout is the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS, the slimmest yet at 8mm thick. It introduces a Mountain Glow dial – a champagne-inflected shade replicating the warm light of sunrise hitting fresh alpine snow – with a textured pattern reminiscent of an eagle’s iris.
Other highlights include a limited-edition interpretation of the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph in DLC-coated Lucent Steel treated with a unique tribofinishing process that creates an evolving patina, mimicking the noble wear on classic racing cars. The playful Happy Sport and Happy Hearts collections also saw fresh designs, alongside an elegant Chopard L’Heure du Diamant with an onyx dial set in an 18k white gold case surrounded by 4.4 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds.
Frederique Constant
Since its founding in 1988, the driving ethos of Frederique Constant has been to make the world of horological mastery approachable to watch lovers and connoisseurs alike. Its latest releases reflect this, highlighted by new iterations of its flagship Classic Worldtimer Manufacture. Housed in a newly designed 40mm stainless steel case measuring 12.53mm thick and with 20mm lugs, the watches now offer much more modern, wearable dimensions. The dial has been simplified by removing the 6 o’clock date window, while the calibre FC-718 has been updated and lives on as the FC-719. The power reserve has also nearly doubled to 72 hours. The movement features refined finishing with Côtes de Genève, circular graining and a gold-toned rotor.
A special limited edition of 88 pieces – a nod to the watchmaker’s founding year – elevates the model with 70 diamonds on the bezel, 12 diamond-set hour markers and a sky-blue dial. The two other nonlimited options feature blue as a defining design element. The most straightforward and versatile of the three, the navy blue reference FC-719NN3H6B is delivered on a new five-link steel bracelet and is the only one out of the three to do so. Meanwhile, the blue gradiant FC-719BLW3H6 comes on a nav y blue alligator strap. Elsewhere, the Classics Manchette returns with two distinct interpretations. The first model adopts a gold-toned bracelet, sculpted with the Clou de Paris motif, contrasted by a vivid turquoise mineral dial. The second interpretation shifts towards a cooler palette. Executed in steel, it retains the same bracelet construction but introduces a mint-green sunray dial.
Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko’s 2026 releases stood as one of the most ambitious and technically accomplished in the brand’s modern history, uniting precision engineering, artisanal craftsmanship and nature-inspired design. Leading the showcase was the Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver models SLGB023 and SLGB025. The smallest and most accurate dive watches in the brand’s lineup, power comes from the groundbreaking Spring
Drive U.F.A. Calibre 9RB1, offering exceptional ±20 seconds per year accuracy and 300m water resistance. The striking wave-textured dial refers to the name ushio, meaning “tide” in Japanese. Beyond that, the case is executed in lightweight high-intensity titanium, enhanced by the brand’s signature Zaratsu polishing. Alongside, the SLGB006 Ice Forest at Dawn is an 80-piece limited edition marked by its dark dial with gold flecks reminiscent of the frost-covered forests in early morning light, while still carrying the same U.F.A. precision.
At the other end of the spectrum, the Mystic Waterfall from the Micro Artist Studio focuses on extensive hand engraving across both case and dial, creating flowing, water-like surfaces and sharp interior detailing that elevate the finishing of the Spring Drive movement within. Even more striking is the eight-piece Red Lion,
complete with over 250 diamonds and eight days of power reserve.
More accessible offerings include the SBGH376 Sakura-Wakaba with its fresh light-green dial and 18k yellow gold case, restrained SBGY043 Iwao Blue echoing untouched rock formations, and 32mm Hana-Ikada quartz models SBGX363 and SBGX365.
H. Moser & Cie.
After nine years in the “Carré des Horlogers”, H. Moser & Cie. moved into the main hall of Watches and Wonders in 2026, accompanied by a confident slate of additions. First up is the Reebok-collaborated Streamliner Pump. Inspired by the iconic 1989 Pump sneaker, it replaces the traditional crown with an orange pusher at 8 o’clock. Each press winds the movement and adds roughly one hour of power reserve. Once fully wound, the pusher can continue to be pressed with no mechanical consequence. Both colourways are limited to 250 pieces and come paired with an exclusive Reebok Pump sneaker.
But the technological pièce de résistance was the Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton, which unites three of watchmaking’s most demanding expressions: a fully skeletonised architecture, a minute repeater brought dial-side and a flying tourbillon equipped with a cylindrical hairspring. The 40mm titanium case is engineered to function as a resonant chamber, enhancing the clarity and duration of the chime.
At the opposite end of the visual spectrum is the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum. Limited to 50 pieces, it takes the Streamline’s already streamlined design to its most minimalistic expression, allowing both the unique material –a rare, dense and exacting metal – and refined complication to take centre stage. The Streamliner also welcomes a compact 34mm reference and a petite 28mm model, both with frosted fumé dials. Sized at 34m and 28mm, it’s the brand’s smallest take on its staple Streamliner yet.
Hermès
Hermès continues to push itself in the horological department under the evocative theme “Mysterious Mechanics”. First launched in 2021, the original H08 stood out for its cushion-shaped case, bold numerals and modern aesthetic. The new H08 Squelette preserves this strong identity while introducing a fully openworked dial that reveals the refined architecture of the manufacture H1978 S calibre. The 39mm case is executed in
black DLC-coated titanium, paired with a tone-on-tone radially brushed black ceramic bezel.
While the H08 Squelette emphasises contemporary design, the Arceau Samarcande draws inspiration from Hermès’ deep equestrian heritage. Available in white gold or rose gold 38mm cases, the dials are executed in white or blue Saint-Louis crystal with a delicate sapphire cut-out in the silhouette of a horse’s head. Beneath this sculptural opening lies the skeletonised H1927 movement and a minute repeater. The Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune takes a more poetic approach, combining skeletonisation with a moonphase complication. Powered by the H1953 automatic movement, the watch tracks the lunar cycle as it appears in both the Northern and Southern hemispheres.
Outside the skeletonisation theme, the Slim d’Hermès Pocket Roaaaaar arrives as the most overtly artistic release of the season. Its openworked cover features a striking lion motif executed in wood marquetry, meticulously assembled from tiny fragments of 10 species of precious wood, including amaranth, burl, bubinga, tulipwood and maple.
Hublot
Last year, Hublot marked two decades of its emblematic Big Bang collection. This year, it debuted a dozen
new Big Bang models. The anchor, the Big Bang Reloaded, is a thorough re-engineering of the open-worked Big Bang Unico. The multilayer skeleton dial features greater contrast and texture, bringing the dial-side
column wheel, oscillating clutch and flyback chronograph functions into sharper visual focus. The core range comes in all black, blue ceramic, green ceramic, titanium ceramic and Magic Gold.
But the real game lies in the two limited editions dedicated to two global sporting icons. Kylian Mbappé’s version adopts a confident white ceramic treatment, with his mantra “Trust Yourself” engraved on the bezel and squad number “10” rendered in King Gold tone. Usain Bolt’s watch comes in black ceramic combined with frosted carbon, layered with details such as a lightning bolt chronograph seconds hand, his 9.58-second world record subtly encoded within the dial and a soil sample from Bolt’s training track embedded in the caseback.
The lineup also includes the vibrant Big Bang Joyful Steel Purple, featuring an amethyst-set steel case and a matching purple rubber strap. Marking the 10th anniversary of Hublot’s iconic Impact setting, the Big Bang Impact One Million stands out with a 45mm polished 18k white gold case. Finally, the Spirit of Big Bang Impact collection introduces a Hublot first: diamonds set directly into sapphire. It launches with three limited-edition models across sapphire, ceramic and osmium.
IWC Schaffhausen
IWC has always excelled at tool watches, particularly its pilot watches. For Watches and Wonders 2026, the brand leaned fully into this heritage, delivering a strong lineup of aviation-inspired novelties. The headline act was the Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive, IWC’s first spacecertified watch, developed in partnership with Vast. This crownless tool watch features an innovative “Vertical Drive” rotating bezel that controls all functions, supported by a rocker switch that allows the wearer to select between winding and time-setting functions.
Of course, IWC’s Pilot’s watches also look to the past. To mark 20 years of collaboration with the heirs of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, IWC has created five Le Petit Prince Anniversary Edition Pilot’s Watches. This
extends to the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Le Petit Prince in white ceramic, and the Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34 Le Petit Prince and two Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet Le Petit Prince.
The second major innovation is the Perpetual Calendar IWCProSet, a ground-up redesign of IWC’s perpetual calendar mechanism that builds on the legacy of Kurt Klaus’s original from 1985. It debuts in three editions of the Big Pilot’s Watch, but the visual anchor of the calendar novelties is the Big Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar Ceralume, the brand’s first fully luminous watch.
Finally, building on the momentum of 2025, IWC has expanded its Ingenieur with a suite of extensions that offer new colours and complications in the collection, while still hewing close to Genta’s original design.
