Gloria Gao, Silver Hu and Zeyi Yang report on the spring/summer 2026 womenswear collections from major fashion maisons

Jil Sander

Jil Sander sharpened its minimalist language into a more assertive monochrome vision. Departing from prior soft tonal capsules, the collaboration with Ron Herman embraced a “triple-black” concept, pairing tonal logos with allblack silhouettes. Clean construction and restrained detailing emphasised graphic clarity and discipline. The collection projected controlled strength and modern austerity, reinforcing minimalism as a powerful visual statement rather than quiet neutrality.

Loewe

Drawing on its Spanish heritage, Loewe employed radiant colour and artisanal leather craftsmanship to create a subtly surreal “beach dweller” aesthetic. Sculptural corsetry, tassel trims and flamenco-inspired flowing dresses balanced structure and movement. Ruffles and hidden colour blocking animated hems with wind driven dynamism. The collection emphasised fluid volume rather than body-con tailoring, blending sensuality, craftsmanship and playful optimism through tactile detailing and kinetic silhouettes.

Loro Piana

Loro Piana approached colour with refined subtlety this season, weaving kaleidoscopic tones into luxurious fabrications of cashmere, silk and merino wool. Neutral sand, cream and brown hues anchored the palette, accented by red, marigold, turquoise, blush and blue. Layered textures enhanced depth without excess. The collection maintained understated elegance while expanding visual richness through nuanced chromatic balance and elevated craftsmanship.

Louis Vuitton

Unfolding like a collage of French history, Louis Vuitton combined exaggerated pleats, lantern-inspired palazzo trousers and elevated collars with intimate domestic references. “Home is where I truly want to go,” explained Nicolas Ghesquière, who explored identity and belonging through softened silhouettes and tactile detail, balancing theatrical structure with personal ease and reinforcing fashion as an expressive extension of lived experience.

Max Mara

Inspired by Rococo fantasy and architectural elegance, Max Mara translated historical curves and ballet references into modern functional silhouettes. Organza dominated the collection, shaped through threedimensional cutting and layered folding techniques. Jellyfish-like movement emerged through asymmetrical volumes and fluid textures. The result balanced romantic delicacy with restrained wildness, creating a contemporary expression of ornamental lightness and sculptural sophistication.

McQueen

McQueen confronted contemporary British tension through a rebellious spirit reminiscent of the Vatican’s defiant eras. Cropped military jackets, rope corsetry, narrow denim and exposed construction introduced raw sensuality. Metallic tops and layered disruptions amplified visual intensity. The collection blended provocation with craftsmanship, channeling defiant energy while challenging conventional proportion and elegance through deliberate distortion and aggressive material contrasts.

Miu Miu

Miu Miu honoured working women through playful utility and decorative layering. Aprons moved fluidly between looks, layered over leather-trimmed coats, bright knits and patterned swimwear. Ruffled edges balanced softness with strength, while oversized polos, beaded cardigans and jewelled jumpsuits diversified proportion. The collection celebrated individuality, resilience and everyday glamour through eclectic yet cohesive styling.

Prada

Prada framed its collection as a response to cultural overload, positioning clothing as a tool for filtration and clarity. Uniform references merged with evening elements, while structure softened and garments layered intuitively across the body. Meaning emerged through juxtaposition rather than ornament. Simplified beauty and nude textures reinforced restraint, presenting adaptability and quiet intelligence as central expressions of contemporary elegance.

Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent emphasised sharp tailoring and fluid sensuality through exaggerated shoulders, asymmetrical jumpsuits, oversized leather bombers and sheer fabrics. Clean silhouettes balanced power with elegance, reinforcing controlled confidence. The collection projected composed boldness and modern sophistication, refining the house’s signature tension between strength and allure through disciplined line, proportion and material contrast.

Schiaparelli

Daniel Roseberry transformed the Centre Pompidou into a meditative stage exploring privacy, creativity and disciplined glamour. Sharp-shouldered tailoring and column gowns appeared in black, bone and crimson. Trompel’oeil knitwear referenced personal sketches, while softened padlocked bags introduced surreal play. The collection positioned wearable art as intimate fantasy, merging conceptual rigour with couture-level craftsmanship.

Shiatzy Chen

Inspired by the untamed spirit of a galloping horse, Shiatzy Chen fused equestrian elegance with 1970s hippie ease. Tobacco and coffee tones were energised by fuchsia and cobalt. Flared trousers, lace tops and fringed tailoring emphasised movement, while embroidery and ribbon detailing highlighted artisanal refinement. Accessories reinforced narrative continuity, presenting poetic freedom through layered cultural references

Tod’s

Tod’s centred its collection on quiet luxury and Italian craftsmanship, elevating the Gommino loafer as its central motif. Warm neutrals were punctuated by saffron and ochre accents. Intricate leather inlay and cutwork defined garments and accessories, while metal hardware extended across footwear and ready-towear. The collection emphasised harmony between functionality, material excellence and understated sophistication.

Valentino

Alessandro Michele crafted a poetic meditation on resilience, inspired by Pier Paolo Pasolini’s wartime letters and the symbolism of fireflies. Sculptural tailoring in luminous chiffon and satin balanced restraint with radiance. Delicate embroidery and shimmering sequins illuminated minimalist silhouettes, while oversized jewellery and romantic bows introduced emotional depth. The collection expressed quiet optimism through refined theatricality.

Versace

Dario Vitale debuted a fearless vision grounded in sensual colour and uninhibited energy. Gaping vests, striped high-waist trousers and shimmering gowns layered over Medusa knits and checkerboard motifs. Accessories amplified bold expression through oversized chains and hardware. The collection celebrated personal power, playful control and unapologetic glamour, signalling a confident reinvention of Versace’s iconic bravado.

Vivienne Westwood

Under Andreas Kronthaler, Vivienne Westwood staged a vision of “intimate chaos”, merging mismatched prints, fluid tailoring and rebellious draping. Floral shirts paired with lace-trimmed shorts and silk suiting layered into expressive contrasts. Dangling key embellishments and a crystal-encrusted finale (worn by Heidi Klum) reinforced theatrical extravagance. The collection celebrated lived-in opulence and unapologetic romantic excess.

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