Thai hospitality abounds at Marriott’s W and Vana Belle in Koh Samui

Unique in character but connected by a common thread of Thai hospitality, Marriott’s W and Vana Belle in Koh Samui offer exciting reasons to hightail it to one of Thailand’s most beloved islands. Stephenie Gee reports

At W Koh Samui, you can do exactly as you please. Accessible via a touch of a single button on your residence phone, the brand’s signature Whatever/Whenever service promises to fulfil your every whim. Not that you’ll have many, because everything you could wish for in the way of five-star luxe is here. Unless you desire, you need never leave the grounds because the property in its inception was conceived as an island within an island, spread across the tip of a headland between Mae Nam and Bo Phut in the north of Koh Samui with a beach along both sides – one facing the sunrise and the other sunset – and a hill separating its own peninsula of land from the rest.

Each of the 74 villas, tightly spaced back from the beach in a manicured garden of neatly trimmed hedges and palm trees connected by narrow concrete trails, comes with its own sundeck and plunge pool with views of either the lush terrain or beach and water beyond; a vast bed with pillow-top mattress, fluffy goose-down duvet and 350 thread count Egyptian cotton sheets; and a spacious en-suite bathroom featuring double basins, a freestanding bath and outdoor rain shower. Wooden textures characterise the interiors, enlivened by vibrant red accents and playful details reflective of W’s trademark cheekiness like the “Plan B” emblazoned on a spare roll of toilet paper.

The bright, mod, youthful vibe carries through to the public areas, where graffiti murals courtesy of NYC artist Alec Monopoly and bright flourishes of colour abound. Buggies zip you up and down vertiginous paths to the beach, the Away Spa housing Asia’s first “Thaimazcal” herbal sauna and steam room combining the ancient Mexican temazcal ritual of purification with Thai herbs, and the bars and restaurants. Of note is Namu, the resort’s signature restaurant offering one of Samui’s best Japanese fine-dining experiences. We opt for one of the six tables indoors, though there is the beachside terrace for those who prefer. Created under the leadership of chef Takayuki Ono, most of the dishes are true to their Japanese roots, but you’ll also find fresh interpretations to enjoy (the lobster udon is a must-try, finished with a duo of jalapeño dressing and chilli bean sauce), all while taking in the ever-changing canvas of the sea, from the golden hues of sunset to the starlit expanse of a clear night.

The night isn’t complete without a stop at Woobar, which by day is a relaxing base to sip on coconuts and revel in the panoramic vistas of the coastline, and after dark comes alive with swirls of flames that dance to beats of the resident DJ. We book ourselves one of the four lime green floating pods for front-row seats to the action. And to complement the spectacle, there’s nothing better than specially crafted cocktails by the W’s team of skilled mixologists.

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There’s a lot more to love about W Koh Samui. Like its range of on-site activities, from high-energy active pursuits like tennis, kayaking and Muay Thai to the more laid-back options including board games (there’s an oversized chess board down by the beach), cooking classes and movie nights. Or the way the gardeners momentarily stop grooming banana plants or scything back undergrowth and instead smile broadly as you pass. And, not least, the hidden huts dubbed “Sweet Spots” dotted around the property stocked with frozen treats and beverages for you to indulge in free of charge 24/7.

If the W blends indulgence and irreverence, then Vana Belle, a Luxury Collection Resort, Koh Samui, offers a classic kind of luxury. It’s the first of Marriott’s The Luxury Collection in Samui and thus a great deal of thought has gone into the design and styling of the resort, the aim being to bring together local – and regional – culture with world-class contemporary fittings and fixtures. Translating to “beautiful forest” in Sanskrit-slash-French, Vana Belle takes its design inspiration from the legendary Himavanta forest said to be located atop the Himalayas. Large wooden arches rest on tall pillars allowing unobstructed views of the sweeping slopes of native trees carefully preserved during construction that frame an infinity of sea and sky. Bronze sculptures of the mythical creatures believed to inhabit the Himavanta are scattered here and there, including the kunchorn waree, a swift swimmer with the head and two front legs of an elephant and body of a fish.

The resort tucked as it is into a secluded cove on the pristine white sands of Chaweng Noi Beach, buggies are our preferred mode of transportation, but getting around by foot is easy too, thanks to the long, wooden walkways stretching from the top of the hill down to the bottom. There are 79 suites and villas spread across six categories, some even with butler service – should you wish. The former units are housed in three-storey buildings perched on the top of the hill (a word of caution: there are no elevators at the resort, so most suites require walking up at least a flight of stairs), while the latter are nestled along the beach. All are airy and spacious, furnished with natural textures and warm timber tones, along with their own terrace and private infinity pool just paces from the bed, although they do vary in degrees of drama.

There’s an equally lavish set of options when it comes to wining and dining. Kiree is set high in the grounds (don’t even consider walking home from breakfast) and serves a large menu of international cuisine. If weather allows, the wooden veranda offers fantastic views of the Gulf of Thailand. Otherwise the inside is decorated with sleek, restrained elegance, featuring a timeless palette and cosy couches.

Down by the beach, the thatch-roofed Panali caters to lunch and dinner with an eye on southern Thai cuisine – our favourites include the bai liang phad kai, or stir-fried melinjo leaves with egg, packed with antioxidants and resveratrol; and panaeng goong yang, creamy red curry with grilled prawn. There’s a no durian policy here but because it was mentioned in conversation and Vana Belle is all about tailor-made luxury, we are presented with fresh durian for dessert, picked out personally by our chefs during their early morning market run.

As for how to spend your time, lounge on the beach, unwind in the spa, work up a sweat in the gym, or have bartender Deen show you the ropes with a cocktail- making workshop as the sun sets and day turns to night. And when you decide to finally retreat back to your room, you’ll find the beds turned down and lights dimmed. Make sure to leave the curtains open before lying down – that way, you can doze off to a sky full of outback stars.

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