Jaeger-LeCoultre: Celebrating the timeless Reverso's 94th anniversary

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, created to protect watch faces during polo matches, has evolved into a design icon over nine decades, blending functionality with artistic expression

The Reverso's story began in the early 1930s, when British army officers in India sought a watch that could withstand the rigours of polo. César de Trey, a watch entrepreneur, was approached with this challenge. He envisioned a watch with a reversible case, which would protect the dial during matches. This innovative design was brought to life by French industrial designer René-Alfred Chauvot.

On March 4, 1931, the Paris patent office received an application for "a watch capable of sliding in its support and being completely turned over". By November, de Trey had registered the Reverso name, and production began immediately. The first Reverso watches were on sale less than nine months later, marking the beginning of an enduring legacy.

The Reverso's success was immediate. It embodied the Art Deco style, with sleek lines and a unique reversible case. The watch was adopted by tastemakers worldwide and is available in gold and Staybrite steel. Feminine models were also introduced, offering options to be worn as pendants or handbag clips. Customisation was a key feature, with brightly coloured lacquer dials and personal engravings available.

Following World War II, interest in the Reverso waned. However, in 1975, it was officially reborn. Jaeger-LeCoultre's Italian distributor, Giorgio Corvo, played a crucial role by purchasing the last remaining cases and fitting them with mechanical movements. All pieces sold within a month, reviving the Reverso's popularity.

In the 1980s, Jaeger-LeCoultre brought production in-house and updated the design to modern technical standards. The new case, unveiled in 1985, was waterproof and dust-proof, featuring a new flip-over mechanism. Despite these changes, the aesthetic remained largely unchanged.

The Reverso's transformation into a collection began in the 1990s. The Reverso Duoface, introduced in 1994, featured dual time zones on each side of the watch. This was followed by the Reverso Duetto in 1997, a feminine interpretation of the double dial principle.

Today, the Reverso is more than just a watch; it is a canvas for artistic expression. The blank metal flip side, initially a functional solution, has become a surface for personalisation with enamel, engraving, or lacquer. Jaeger-Le Coultre's Atelier des Métiers Rares brings together skilled artisans to create elaborate embellishments, from invisibly set diamonds to grand feu enamel.

The Reverso has also been at the forefront of innovation. It has housed numerous high complications, including tourbillons and minute repeaters. The Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque, for example, features a single movement with 18 functions displayed across three dials.

Over nine decades, the Reverso has evolved without compromising its identity. It remains a testament to the power of design and innovation, blending functionality with artistic expression. As you consider the Reverso's enduring appeal, ask yourself: What makes a design truly timeless? Is it the ability to adapt to changing tastes or the capacity to transcend its original purpose and become something more? The Reverso's story offers insights into these questions, as it continues to inspire new generations of watch enthusiasts and collectors alike.

Also see: Jaeger-LeCoultre: Nicolas Bonneville crafting scented narratives for master watchmaker