Jaeger-LeCoultre: Nicolas Bonneville crafting scented narratives for master watchmaker
Nov 25, 2024
Acclaimed perfumer Nicolas Bonneville bridges the worlds of horology and fragrance, creating three unique scents that embody the spirit of the renowned watchmaker
In a remarkable fusion of artistry and precision, French perfumer Nicolas Bonneville has unveiled three exclusive fragrances for Jaeger-LeCoultre, a brand synonymous with luxury watchmaking. This collaboration, part of the maison's Made of Makers programme, reflects a profound exploration of identity through scent, echoing the meticulous craftsmanship that defines both perfumery and horology.
Bonneville's journey into the world of fragrances began at the tender age of twelve during a formative visit to Grasse, France, the heart of perfumery. He recalls, “I was bathed in a mix of many cooking smells... I tried to understand what they were,” highlighting how his early experiences shaped his olfactory curiosity. A self-taught artist, he honed his skills under the mentorship of renowned perfumers Jacques Maurel and Francis Kurkdjian. Bonneville describes his creative mission as one that “brings emotion into people's lives”, achieved by diving deep into raw materials to create new olfactory landscapes.
The three scents - The Timeless Stories, The Celestial Odyssey, and The Precision Pioneer - are more than just fragrances. They are narratives that encapsulate Jaeger-LeCoultre’s heritage. Bonneville elaborates on his approach: “Like a sculptor, I try to put things together... I always work in the same way.” His minimalist philosophy utilises high concentrations of noble ingredients to ensure clarity and depth, with each note shining while contributing to a harmonious whole.
To Bonneville, visual representation aids in his creative process. "What’s fun when you talk about perfume is that almost nobody has an olfactory education and scent is something that you can't see. So you use vocabulary from other senses like touch or sight – it's raw, it's flat, it's round, it's blued, it's clear, it's transparent, it's sparkling."
"Everyone has their own idea of what a word means so you need to be sure that your understanding of the term is the same as your client’s. That’s why you must be open to different universes: when you work with someone in fashion, it's not the same wording used in architecture, glass blowing or whatever. To be sure that you are aligned, you have to adapt your vocabulary and develop the same understanding about what is white, what is warm for example."
The Three Scents
The Timeless Stories draws inspiration from the iconic Reverso watch, evoking earthy aromas associated with polo and equestrian life. Bonneville explains that it opens with fresh violet leaves, transitioning into a heart of orris - a rare ingredient that reflects the duality of strength and delicacy inherent in the Reverso design. He notes that orris is one of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery, requiring careful preparation over several years to release its unique scent.
The Celestial Odyssey pays homage to celestial bodies, featuring notes that evoke the moon, sun, and stars. Its composition begins with patchouli and evolves into warm amber woods, culminating in a base of vanilla. Bonneville describes this fragrance as capturing “the essence of cosmic allure”, drawing parallels between celestial navigation and watchmaking.
Finally, The Precision Pioneer embodies the essence of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s craftsmanship. It opens with incense reminiscent of the blacksmith's fire and is enriched by vibrant wood notes that evoke the watchmaker’s bench. Bonneville states, “This project is a strong expression of precision and savoir-faire,” emphasising how both watchmaking and perfumery demand meticulous attention to detail.
Connecting timepieces with their wearers
Through this collaboration, Bonneville not only enhances Jaeger-LeCoultre's narrative but also reinforces the connection between scent and memory. He states, "A fine fragrance is intensely personal, evoking memories, moods, and feelings." In this way, Bonneville’s creations bridge timepieces and their wearers, capturing fleeting moments in olfactory form.
As Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to innovate within its Made of Makers programme, Bonneville's work stands as an exemplar of how traditional craftsmanship can evolve through collaboration across disciplines - an exploration that celebrates both heritage and modernity in equal measure.
The artisan perfumer stays pragmatic when asked what makes him stand out from his competitors and whether he has an edge over others. "Only a handful of master perfumers can say ‘yes, I have a style’. I think I'm still too young to have my own signature but I can tell you what I like: citrus, sensuality with Oriental notes, woods, something fizzy. I have my favourite ingredients and I use them like a spinal column for all of my work. I always use the same approach to build my formula."
The relationship Bonneville has with watches is a personal one.
"My brother is a jeweller and gemmologist and we share a love of beautiful things. I love the universe of watchmaking with its constant research for innovation, for new ways to express complications, yet working within strict constraints. That spirit of permanent challenge, the race to innovation and the savoir-faire co-exist in very few other worlds – maybe only in F1 and aerospace."
"Watches also express my relationship with the ephemeral – perfumery is a play between time and matter. I feel very aware of the passage of time and wearing time on my wrist creates an urgency to express things. For me, the value of time, both personally and professionally, is a mix between nostalgia and the urgency to capture time before it passes. There is so much that I want to do and time is always a constraint."
