Gerald Li's watch collection
Nov 21, 2024
You may not know Gerald Li by name, but you’ll almost certainly know his work. Co-founder of Hong Kong-based hospitality group Leading Nation, Li spearheads some of Asia’s most beloved eateries and bars, including coffee chain Elephant Grounds, award-winning cocktail bar The Diplomat, cult beef purveyor Wagyumafia and the Michelin-starred Cristal Room by Anne-Sophie Pic. As it turns out, his taste in watches is equally impressive
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ref. 16202
I love watches that don’t look bulky and bulgy on the wrist. Extra-thin at 8.1mm, even thinner than its predecessor, this watch hugs the wrist nicely. And the petite tapisserie dial in classic dark blue is not overly complicated, making this an elegantly versatile piece for both formal and casual occasions. The open-worked model is amazing too, showcasing technique and craftsmanship, though not something I would possibly be able to wear every day. The 16202 reference came out celebrating AP’s 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak with four models I would love to get my hands on. Especially the yellow gold smoked dial.
Omega Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon” Black Black Ref. 311.92.44.51.01.005
The speedmaster professional is one of the greatest chronographs of all time and that’s according to the engineers at NASA. The DSotM collection is the modern interpretation of those watches the astronauts wore during the Apollo missions, aptly nicknamed the Moonwatch. On the larger size at 44.25mm, it’s quite light and doesn’t look too big on the wrist. With the black ceramic dial, clasp and nylon strap, everything darkened out, the Black Black model is just sleek. And don’t worry about reading the time at night – the lume on the dial is strong.
Rolex GMT-Master Pepsi Ref. 16750
This watch is instantaneously recognisable. It’s close to 40 years old and I can wear it every day without being too overly concerned – even though I’m always on the move. Two time zones are great, and this model has the quick-set date function. I love the simplicity of the matte dial. The great thing about GMTs and GMT IIs is that they age well and can be passed on to and appreciated by the next generation.
Also see: Leica Watches are a fusion of time and craftsmanship
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 371446
The Portugieser chronograph is the best known and most successful watch from IWC, and hasn’t changed since it debuted in 1998. There are a few dial variations, but my favourite look is the silver and white dial, which lends the piece a sporty elegance. Even with a leather strap, it wears nicely with jeans and a white tee. It’s very thin for a chronograph and its movements are perfectly organised on the dial, making it easy on the eyes.
Rolex Day-Date 40 Green Ombré Ref. 228238-0069
The iconic day-date design is technically impressive and aesthetically stunning, demonstrating Rolex’s dedication and craftsmanship. It’s a legacy watch that would fit in anyone’s collection. I just love how it keeps the connectivity of the past, but with the variations has its own personality matching the owner. The green ombré dial with its green hue gradually fading to a rich black towards the edges gives the watch a sense of depth and mystery. Paired with the 18k yellow gold case and president bracelet, it’s visually harmonious, making this an exclusive and bucket-list watch.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712/1A
The history and legacy of the Nautilus makes it very attractive, landing on the top of my wish list. I remember when I first saw the Nautilus, the shape felt a bit odd – it could have been the proportion was off. But after trying on a friend’s 5711, I just fell in love with how nicely
it fit on the wrist, and it was just the right height at around only 8.5mm. With the 5711 being discontinued and only available on the secondary market, it has made the 5712 even more desirable – and there’s a waiting list to prove it. It’s a more mechanically complex reference than I usually collect, as I’m normally not into overly complicated movements and dials, but the dial fits the moon phase and everything so well. The matching stainless steel integrated bracelet gives it a sportier edge.
