The spring/summer 2023 runway report

Dan Shi and Yehua Qu provide a rundown of the runway trends for Spring/Summer 2023

Alexander McQueen

Creative director Sarah Burton took inspiration this season from the night sky and cosmos. The result was a galaxy of sequins, deep black, and twilight shades of dusty pinks and blues, with dissected tailoring that had been deconstructed and reconstructed. Following the label’s signature style, the asymmetric silhouettes and design details were both on-trend and timeless.


Blending European style and the beauty of Africa, Olivier Rousteing’s latest collection revealed a newfound commitment to sustainability. Unorthodox silhouettes and a palette of pastels and evocative watercolour prints ran through the show while fabrics were made from natural and recycled materials such as paper, banana leaf and raffia. “How can we create clothes made with nature, without destroying nature?” the designer was overheard asking backstage.


Berluti’s SS23 collection continued the prestigious French brand’s exploration of more casual-looking pieces, boss with relaxed silhouettes and a range of items created especially for the beach and golf course. However, the label’s signature Scritto embroidery, as well as leather-trimmed or hand-stitched details ensured the brand’s commitment to quality and craftmanship remains intact.


Marco Falconi dug into the brand’s archive to present a ’90s-inspired collection featuring classic tailoring paired with modernised styling – oversized or three-piece suiting over long flowing shirts, futuristic mirror- like fabrics, and sometimes deconstructed silhouettes. “We look back in terms of tailoring, then boldly move into the future, embodying the spirit of a true Boss,” Falconi said.


Proudly presented in London, Burberry’s SS23 collection was a celebration of “community, unity and the spirit of Britishness”. Chief creative director Riccardo Tisci was inspired by life on the seaside as he explored the tension between dressing and undressing, revelation and protection, and underwear and outerwear, expressed through sheer fabrics, gothic-font prints and vibrantly coloured suits.


With progressive shapes and sharp tailoring, Hedi Slimane’s SS23 collection for Celine definitely brought a punk vibe. Over 60 looks were seen parading down the runway at Paris’ Palais de Tokyo, with sparkling embellishments and flowing fringe adorning bold shades of black, white and red. The party-like atmosphere even featured an original score by New York- based indie band Gustaf.


Kim Jones has always cared about legacy. Weaving together scenes from Christian Dior’s childhood home with his own adolescent fascination with the artist collective known as the Bloomsbury Group, he presented a palette of soft pastels on a runway that resembled a garden in full bloom. Having reconstructed formal wear with functional elements, the result was an inspired collection that combined elegance and practicality.

Dries Van Noten

Starting from dandified tummy band and pale pink, followed by drapey trousers, DVN motifs and motocross-inspired but still elegant pieces, the collection is an interpretation of the “masculine-feminine” style exclusive to Dries Van Noten and is obviously reaching out to a younger group of customers.


Focusing on craftmanship and functionality, this collection continued the label’s classic heritage but still full of rich details, exploration on fabric and subtle nuances of silhouette that speak for innovation. Standout looks include a water-resistant creaseless coat, leather blazers and a ruffle jacket.


This season’s Fendi menswear was filled up with delightful colours mirroring the earth, sea, and sky. De-reconstructed silhouettes were also thrown in, featuring coats with cracks on each shoulder, plush robes, and twill shirt jackets while fringed denim stranding out in the accessory’s realm.

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani proposed a collection that integrated formalness and playfulness, as white, navy, and grey blazers, which are in Armani’s DNA, were followed by purple, India green trousers, and tree-print lilac shirts. The elongated shirts, soft shoulder blazers were equally relaxed and watered down the sense of formalness. 


Inspired by the people surround him, Matthew Williams mashed together different styles and the result was a forward-looking collection that contains almost everything you would find on the modern generation — tight, sexy motorcycle pants, high-tech sunglasses, metal accessories, heavy logos and demi-face masks.


Entitled “Gucci Twinsburg”, the show doubled Alessandro Michele’s signature flamboyance. Design cues echoed Gucci’s maximum paradigms from Chinese, Native American, Moroccan cultures, and complete with shinning beaded accessories and symmetric details from the twins’ looks.


Colourful, relaxed and beachy, Veronique Nichanian staged a meeting of hope and joy for the spring/summer 2023. Elevated by fabrication such as lightweight technical satin and pattern details, those wide-legged shorts and sandals showed that Nichanian is so ready to reinvigorate the delightful holiday vibe in a stylish way.

Isabel Marant

Inspired and assembled with summer and concert ambience, Isabel Marant offered up basics like quilted jackets, cargo shorts and reformed workwear in comfortable, everyday fabrics, but energized them with fluorescent colours, tie-dye and floral patterns.

JW Anderson

JW Anderson Spring and Summer 2023 Menswear collection draws inspiration from the first performance of The Pitchfork Disney, shapes an aesthetic experiment clothing and modernity. Jonathan Anderson recreates the charm through appliques on knitwears and prints on sneakers. The BMX handlebars, shattered skate decks and CDs on clothing remind us of our inner modernity ephemerality and its inevitable descent into anachronism. 


Kenzo released its 2023 Spring and Summer Menswear collection in Paris Fashion Week. Based on the silhouettes and patterns of the brand archives, this series shares the Parisian landscape from the unique perspective of the Japanese through the founder Kenzo Takada and designer Nigo. Elaborate intarsia knits, baseball jackets and tank tops with appliques and sailor elements refer to the 80s Japanese take on nautical uniforms, and pays homage to Kenzo Takada’s love of reinventing the brand with a pixelated floral print.

Also see: A very Lagerfeld Met Gala


The clothing in this collections exudes a strong aesthetic of spring. Low-saturation yellow, and green run through the layout, and the slim silhouette reflects the three-dimensional layering of clothing. Flexible shadows hiding in the lines and jackets demonstrate the brand’s ingenuity. The low-key luster of the clothing material makes you feel comfortable, and the hand-woven metal lace pays tribute to the brand’s tradition in the details.


In the context of the Metaverse and the global pandemic, designer Jonathan Anderson rethinks the relationship between organic forces of nature and digital device. Greenery sprout from coats and sneakers, providing a fresh form of experiment. Iconic items such as bomber jackets, hoodies, and tees have shifted in length and shape, empowering the boys’ of the Z generation the glamour of nature wherever they go.

Louis Vuitton 

This collection shows the transition from innocence to maturity, and sublimates the imagery of childhood through the exquisite craftsmanship of Louis Vuitton. Loose biker jackets, jacquard trench coats decorated with hand-painted patterns, kaleidoscopic printed shirts and suits, pay tribute to the dress code of the traditional skate community in the 1990s. Iconic playground elements like paper plane, Lego bricks, plasticine and sand-dug trims evoke the emotions inherent in growing up.


With pointy-toe boots and leather shorts becoming the heart of “How to Dress Like Prada.” Prada’s 23 spring and summer menswear series combines leather double-zip short-shorts with vests of the same material, and then accented with striped rib knits.  Windbreakers that is about the length of the knee, faded double denim look, Prada leads a self-evident style by imprinting its image in everyone’s heart.

Raf Simons 

Raf Simons said that destruction is the prerequisite for creation, and these words were emphasized again in the ‘23 spring and summer series menswear. The sleeves of the monotonous orthodox suit have been cut off, the vest has been restructured, and the transparent mesh fabric is matched with stockings and leather boots. Represented by neatly tailored white shirt and leather jacket with punk style. Simons presented the consistent style of the youth group in the most streamlined way, encapsulated their attitude—bearish on everything but full of rebellion.

Saint Laurent 

Saint Laurent released the 2023 spring and summer men’s collection in Morocco, presenting an oasis in the vast Agafay desert. By integrating the styles usually appear in women’s clothing into the design of men’s, Anthony Vaccarello blurs the boundaries of gender. With defined tailored silhouette, narrow waistline and wide shoulders, trench coats, lanky pants and all sets show the slender figure of the model and once again attach a refrained sense of aesthetic as the le smoking always have.

Salvatore Ferragamo 

Ferragamo’s 2023 spring and summer fashion show was staged in a space almost full of high-saturation red that represents the brand. Sheer knits, smooth silks and layers of organza are paired with woven suede sandals and shiny accessories for an ethereal elegance. Glossy leather and close-fitting cut pay tribute to Hollywood’s glory days. The matching of sports-style hooded jackets with trousers and sneakers further writes Maximilian Davis’ vision to inject more vigorous blood into this brand.

Also see: Mikimoto: Pearls are everyone’s best friend

Thom Browne 

The Thom Browne ss23 series subversively interprets the images of cowboys, surfers, sailors and tennis pros. A series of cuts such as sleeveless silhouette and slim-fitting hidden pleats prove his promise of exploring a new form for men. Extended sports jackets go with cropped skirts, high shoulder pads and low waistlines break the visual balance, presenting a gorgeous and mysterious aesthetic. Thom Browne throws down the challenge to mainstream luxury couture.  


In Tod’s 2023 spring and summer collection, designer Walter Chiapponi refreshes his vision for Tod’s—— a more relaxed take on the label’s fundamentals. He combines pragmatism and exquisite details to construct a modern and bold masculine image. Leather inlaid trench coats and parkas, rubber cotton raincoats escort the outdoor experience without losing urban chic. The iconic T-Jacket made of quilted cotton and finely stitched leather create a lightweight texture.

Tom Ford 

The 2023 collection delicately advanced the brand’s fundamental menswear identity while simultaneously reinforcing it. The formal tailoring give a hint of 1950s in the cut, but multiple jewel-toned shades and creamy colours give another sense of modernity. A nappa leopard coat over a leopard silk shirt make people afraid to approach. Tom Ford continues the approach of close-fitting tailoring and extreme lines, which satisfies all the audience’s imagination of the coquettish and noble young man.


Valentino’s spring and summer collection, dubbed as Unboxing ushered in a new journey. The set replete with faint V-shaped Logo and mesh stockings make the whole look smart and modern. New elements such as ostrich fur, bright diamonds, and fan-shaped folds were added to this collection’s design. The skin-coloured top and neat shorts matched with formal stockings recreated the minimalism of the brand’s pursuit of excellent tailoring.


Versace’s 2023 spring and summer menswear plays a symphony of pop and classic. Over dramatic colours, baroque prints, mysterious and seductive python patterns and other elements are mixed with classic stripes to create a luxurious and chic temperament and a sexy and tough masculine image. This series also imports the brand’s Home collection into the clothing. The models appear on the stage holding exquisite retro vases, and wear coffee cups and saucer pendants on their waists or necks, giving a relaxed and casual sense of beauty.

Wales Bonner 

This collection is the first work its designer Grace Wales Bonner has returned to Fashion Week since 2019. As in the past, this series adheres to the principle of practical wear, and integrates the African cultural tradition with the European style clothing. Hand-dyed knitted fabrics, small sly acts of sartorial “wrongness” on coats and striped linen cotton blend exude a magnificent ease, fully displaying the retro style of Florence.

Also see: #fashion: Spring/Summer 2023

In this Story: #fashion