In the realm of luxury timekeeping, few names evoke as much reverence and fascination as Rolex. This Swiss horological powerhouse has, over the course of its illustrious 120-year history, become synonymous with precision, craftsmanship and enduring style. While Rolex’s contemporary creations continue to dazzle with their innovative designs and exceptional quality, it’s the vintage Rolexes that offer a captivating glimpse into the brand’s storied past. These timeless pieces have transcended their mere functional role as timekeepers to become revered artifacts that encapsulate a bygone era of watchmaking excellence. Vintage Rolex collector, Jim Lai, shares his favourite pieces and what makes them so unique and desirable
Rolex 1953 Sub Aqua 6204
Of all the variations of Rolex submariners, this is the truly ancestor, reference 6204 so called “Sub-Aqua” as golden printed on dial. This is a unique 6mm crown size while most submariners are either bigger or smaller in measurement. High radium reading also another feature of this watch as this is only born in 1953. Sub-Aqua was named in 1953 but stopped same year as there is an organisation named British Sub Aqua Club (BSAC) in UK that period so Rolex tried to avoid any legal responsibility for the patent issues. Then the name “Submariner” was born in 1954 and hereafter.
Rolex 1963 LeMans 6239
I believe Daytona is everyone’s all-time favourite but this is the one you will only see in museum. This 1963 6239 is the very first Rolex Daytona used as outer tachometer scale. As the larger case size applied, there is another Swiss printed below the 6 o’clock index for better appearance, in other words become Double Swiss accordingly. The underline printed as this is a 1963 piece which for Rolex to signify the transition from radium to tritium for the luminous material that was used for the hour markers. They are rare and this insignificant detail deserves high premium for the value of the piece.
Rolex 1959 Square Crown Guard SCG 5512
This is one of the earliest Submariners with crown guards, the pieces of metal that surround the crown and protect it from damage. The design was not popular so Rolex switched to eagle beak shape and latter to more popular pointed version that were seen as more attractive. The SCG 5512 was made in 100 pieces only in 1959. They are ultra rare and highly collectible, especially with the original red triangle bezel.
Rolex 1967 Fat Font Matte 1016
369 is so iconic in all Rolex references, sometimes matte dials look more vintage than gilt dials. This explorer dial 1016 was born in 1967, the first matte 369 dial. It features ultra thick 369 index, frog leg coronet, 1.73m serial number range dated 1967. This is the Mark One 1016.
Rolex 1963 Waffle Coronet 6244
This self-winding, shock-resistance wristwatch is housed in a 34mm stainless steel, oyster case equipped with a smooth bezel, acrylic crystal, and signature screw-down crown and caseback, ensuring basic water resistance. It was powered by the Rolex Caliber 710, a manual-wind movement used in 60’s. Dials typically displayed in few different versions, with white, silver or gold finishes, Arabic numerals or applied baton markers. This one here comes with the rarest Coronet index + waffle dials, what a collector piece.
Rolex 1967 Paul Newman Exotic Dial 6239
No need to say more about this favourite American actor, Paul Newman is also a film director, racing car driver, philanthropist, and entrepreneur. This piece is named after him for his legendary story. Paul Newman Daytona has few variations references such as 6239, 6241, 6262, 6264, 6263, & 6265. This 6239 is the earliest Paul Newman dial among them all, with big wide SWISS printed at the bottom of 6 o’clock index.
