Autumn is the eagerly awaited season for hairy crabs. Whole steamed crabs are a delicious extravagance, treasured by any gourmand worth their salt, that makes every decent menu in Hong Kong. Between October 28 and November 30 the Man Wah restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong will offer a Shanghainese hairy crab feast comprising 20 hairy crab dishes. mandarinoriental.com??

At Lai Bun Fu, also in Central, the delicacy is served in dishes from the classical to the modern, including chicken wings stuffed with roe. laibunfu.com