Wynn Macau's Drunken Fish chef on innovating tradition and cooking with Moutai

The new Drunken Fish at Wynn Macau is a celebration of Chinese culture. Executive chef Henry Zhang talks to Stephenie Gee about bringing in the rarest treasures of the ocean, balancing tradition with innovation, and cooking with China’s national liquor 

In Chinese legend, Kun is a creature of monumental proportions, living beneath the waves in the deep, uncharted waters of the ancient world. The sea around it churns with its every movement, and the light barely penetrates where Kun swims, casting an eerie glow on its immense form. As it breaks through the ocean’s surface, its body shifts and expands, and Kun morphs into Peng, a majestic bird. Soaring to heights unimagined, its wings stretch out like immense clouds, casting shadows over the mountains and valleys below. 

From the depths of the ocean to the boundless skies, the tale of Kun is one of transformation and breaking boundaries. Its narrative holds a mirror to human potential, inviting us to look beyond our limitations and grasp the immensity of what we can become. You see, Kun does not change forms without reason; its transformations are precipitated by a profound desire to explore, discover and become more than it is. It’s a reminder that we too have the potential to travel beyond our confines. 

It’s from this mythical creature that Wynn Macau’s newest concept – called Drunken Fish, or in Chinese “Jiu Kun” ( jiu for “nine” or “liquor”) – takes its name. Helmed by executive chef Henry Zhang, this is a place where indulgence knows no bounds. From prized French blue lobsters to succulent Sri Lankan crabs and Malaysia’s “king of river fish”, the best of seafood takes centre stage, transformed through traditional Chinese cooking techniques and an innovative flair. “The philosophy here is all about respecting traditional methods while embracing innovation,” Zhang says. 

“We love Chinese seafood cuisine and we want to honour its rich heritage by using time-honoured techniques and high-quality ingredients. But we also want to push the boundaries with creative presentations and flavour combinations.” 

What are some of the traditional Chinese seafood culinary techniques?

We employ several traditional Chinese seafood techniques. Steaming preserves the natural flavours and nutrients of the seafood, while stir-frying allows for quick cooking but at the same time, maintains the texture and freshness of the ingredients. Techniques like braising and poaching are used to infuse the seafood with rich, aromatic flavours. We also offer a wide range of cooking methods so you can enjoy local and global flavours, from spicy Sichuan dishes to Hong Kong-style cooking, and a fusion of Singaporean, Thai and Japanese cuisines. The result is an amazing selection of dishes to suit every taste. 

Tell us about some of the challenges. 

One of the main challenges has been sourcing sustainable and high-quality seafood consistently. We’ve been able to overcome this by building strong relationships with trusted suppliers, and focusing on seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. Additionally, we’re committed to being agile with the available seafood while maintaining consistency in flavour and presentation – and we’re excited to see what we can achieve. We’re thrilled to present an innovative menu, and our staff are trained continuously to ensure they serve with a commitment to quality. Another is the Moutai. Especially for those who are new to it, Moutai may have too strong of a taste. So we’ve created inventive cocktails, with a Moutai twist, to surprise them at our Moutai bar. 

About Moutai, what are some of the do’s and don’ts of
cooking with it?

Cooking with Moutai is an adventure. Its high alcohol content
and strong, distinctive flavour present unique challenges that are exciting to tackle. It’s absolutely essential to balance its intensity with other ingredients to enhance the dish rather than overpower it. You also need to be careful with the alcohol during cooking to make sure it doesn’t overwhelm your palate. At Drunken Fish, we love a good challenge. We embrace these challenges to create exceptional dishes that highlight the unique flavours of Moutai. We’ve infused Moutai in two of our dishes, and it’s a truly amazing example of the skill involved in balancing out the strong and pungent flavour of Moutai while making the dish more appetising. 

Any personal favourites on the menu? 

One of my absolute favourites is the Moutai flambé crispy chicken. This dish perfectly captures our philosophy of blending tradition with innovation. The crispy skin and silky meat combined with the unique flavour of Moutai brings this dish to a whole new level, making it a culinary masterpiece that promises an unforgettable flavour experience. We also have the red-spotted grouper with pickled tomato, chili, bean sprouts and Moutai. This is a traditional fish in sour soup originally created by the Miao and Dong ethnic groups of Guizhou, China. The aroma of the liquor brings out the ultimate freshness of the fish. Then, there’s the empurau steamed with soy sauce, which is prepared using Cantonese steaming techniques. The empurau is a rare Malaysian fish that can only be caught during certain seasons of the year. Every single morsel of this delicious, delicate fish is precious and truly unforgettable. 

Also see: Regent HK: The dining destination by the harbour to check out

What is the experience you want to offer guests coming to Drunken Fish?

We’re passionate about offering our guests an incredible, immersive dining experience that combines the best of traditional Chinese flavours with the latest and greatest in modern culinary techniques. We’re on a mission to create the most welcoming atmosphere where guests can enjoy the most innovative seafood dishes that are both familiar and exciting, leaving them with the most memorable dining experiences. We also want this to be a signature attraction of the property, so we’ve created a lively atmosphere with an innovative design, featuring multiple hand-bent curved aquariums and a trendy turquoise Moutai bar – Moutai is one of the most important drinks in Chinese culture, and this is the perfect place for Moutai fans to come together and celebrate. We
also want our diners to have engaging moments – in the evenings on Friday and Saturday, we will have exciting interactive auctions where guests can bid on the freshest catches or liquor. 

What has been a valuable lesson you’ve learned throughout your career that you carry to this day? 

One of the most valuable lessons I’ve learned is the importance of adaptability and continuous learning. The culinary world is always evolving, and staying open to new techniques, ingredients and ideas
is crucial for growth and success. With a growth mindset, I always listen and let go of my own thoughts, welcoming new ideas that grant me a different or new perspective in ideating a dish. This mindset has helped me navigate challenges and seize opportunities throughout my career, and I’m excited to see what the future holds. 

Also see: Kowloon Shangri-La: Shang Palace launches new menu of Cantonese classics