Watches and Wonders 2024: Baume & Mercier’s new take on the Riviera collection

Classic dress watches are what many often associate watchmaker Baume & Mercier with. Be it the rectangular Hampton or the round Clifton, the watchmaker is a master at conveying elegance and class through its interpretation of these emblematic silhouettes in watchmaking. 

This year, however, is a celebration of the sports watch at Baume & Mercier as it launches several new interpretations of its Riviera Collection. Though it may not be your typical Baume & Mercier dress watch, it’s a classic nonetheless and has a rich history that may surprise most fans of the brand. The collection and its 12-sided dodecagonal bezel are said to have been inspired by the French Riviera 50 years ago when it was first unveiled in 1973. 

The design has that contemporary sports watch appeal that is very much characteristic of the designs of that era when stainless steel timepieces and the concept of luxury sports watches first began to take rise. 

As more people embrace the utilitarian beauty of a sports watch, it’s only natural that the watchmaker swayed in that direction, shining a spotlight on an archival design that is packed with modern appeal. This year, the brand unveiled six new additions to this range, which covers everything from a skeletonised dial to a perpetual calendar number. 

The Riviera Squelette is a 42 mm piece crafted in stainless steel. What makes the piece stand out is its skeletonised movement, which takes on emblematic design features of Rivera architecture, such as its grand columns and ceilings. 

These geometric and architectural elements are found on the stripped-down, blackened dial, revealing the movement hidden beneath. 

An automatic movement gives the piece 38 hours of power reserve and is water resistant up to 100 metres. The movement propels the hour and minute hands, which are covered in white SuperLuminova for enhanced legality in the dark. 

Another key addition to the Riviera collection is the Riviera Baumatic 10786 Perpetual Calendar. The perpetual calendar is presented in a grey dial this year, displaying the day, date, month and leap year. An additional sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position houses the aperture for the perpetual calendar. The indices and hands are in pink gold, bringing a soft contrast to the grey dial. 

The piece is fitted with an interchangeable strap mechanism, which allows the bracelet to be swapped out for a rubber or leather strap.

Also see: Watches and Wonders 2024: A. Lange & Söhne lights up its latest high complication timepiece