From Mickey Mouse to a desk clock that’s fit for outer space travel, here are the highlights from Geneva Watch Days 2021
H Moser & Cie
The watchmaker combines the aesthetics of the Streamliner with its Perpetual 1 complication to create the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. Featuring the Streamliner’s integrated steel bracelet and case, this reference gets an even cleaner dial with the small seconds removed and integrated with the hour, minute and month hands.
Everyone’s favourite maker of the Mickey Mouse watch is back with a new jumping hour and retrograde minute reference. The Gérald Genta Area Retrograde with Smiling Mickey Mouse is created under Bulgari, which acquired the brand in 2000. Genta’s iconic retrograde movement has been integrated into Bulgari references in the years since. This new launch marks the beginning of the revival of the brand; Bulgari announced Gérald Genta will once again produce watches under this name.
The watchmaker’s flagship reference gets several new iterations this year, including the Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon and the two Octo Roma Worldtimers. The Worldtimer gets a new automatic movement that powers central time and 24-hour indication for up to 42 hours. The 24 time zones are positioned around the perimeter of the dial, with the baton and two numeral hour-markers in the centre creating a rather sleek visual display. The piece is launched in stainless steel and black DLC.
As the brand celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, it brings a refreshed spin to its Tonda collection with the new Tonda PF series. Seven timepieces in a range of complications now join the family. The pieces, including an annual calendar, chronograph and a simple time-only reference, are presented in stainless steel and rose gold with integrated bracelets; there’s also a platinum Tonda PF Split-Seconds Chronograph.
The UR-100 Electrum sees the watchmaker’s satellite hours together with minute indication, as well as an indication of the kilometres Earth travelled around the equator and along its orbit. The complication was first launched in UR-100 Spacetime and this year housed in a grooved yellow gold case with a greenish tint. The reference is limited to 150 pieces worldwide.
The TBreitling Top Time Classic Cars Capsule Collection is a trio of auto-inspired timepieces. The colourful dials each represent an icon in classic car racing. The red, green and blue faces are inspired by the Corvette, the Mustang and the Shelby Cobra, respectively. The Shelby Cobra piece measures 40mm while the others are slightly larger at 42mm. The automatic chronograph movement has a power reserve of 42 hours.
Marking its 230th anniversary this year is a piece that’s very much in line with the brand’s signature design. The Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges features a dial that looks at once complex yet clean. The three bridges provide more than visual stimulation– the tri-bridge mainplate anchors the tourbillon, barrel and gear train. The self-winding movement drives the hours, minutes and the small seconds hand set on the tourbillon cage.
Leave it to MB&F to come up with the unexpected. The MB&F Orb is a striking hour clock with aluminium ‘petals’ that opens into four different positions. As with many of MB&F’s creations, this clock gives heavy hints of futuristic, sci-fi vibes. The self-winding movement powers the hours, minutes and striking hours for six days. Both the black and white versions are limited to 50 pieces.