SIHH 2019: Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin, undoubtedly one of the oldest fine watch makers since 1755, still has the unshakable reputation to disrupt the swiss watch industry. With their latest remarkable Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpectual Calendar launched at this year’s SIHH, this watch was definitely one of the hot topics on everyone’s lips.

With 264 years of horological excellence, Vacheron Constantin further defines the meaning of innovation of technological designs in the history of mechanical watchmaking. The Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpectual Calendar was indeed one of their proudest moments.  At this year’s booth their main attraction was of course this watch being showcased with a palm sensor which can detect your pulse rate right away and be projected onto their giant screen. Why? Vacheron Constantin has achieved this innovative coup by giving the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar two balances, each operating at a different frequency that has never been used before by the Maison. A pusher at the 8 o’clock position allows the wearer to easily switch from one frequency to another, depending on activity level. When the watch is on the wrist, the wearer will get the most out of it by keeping it in Active mode, which features a 5Hz (36,000vph) balance and 4 days of power reserve.

If the watch is to be taken off and left unworn for some time, it can be switched to Standby mode, which runs on a second balance with a drastically reduced frequency of 1.2Hz (8,640vph). This allows the maximum power reserve to be extended to at least 65 days. At any point during the Standby mode running time, the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar can be switched back to Active mode and reworn, with all its calendar indications perfectly up to date thanks to the complex engineering of the perpetual calendar.

This mechanism can correctly display all date information despite variable months and leap years, meaning the perpetual calendar has an everyday relevance and utility. Up until now, however, the relevance and utility of the perpetual calendar have been restricted by the limits of conventional mainspring technology, making it necessary in most cases to set a perpetual calendar watch each time before it is worn. To cut the long story short this hand-wound perpetual calendar can be set flat on a table and be picked up more than two months later, and still be displaying the correct date and month. Genius!

Other models showcased this year by Vacheron Constantin includes the Overseas Tourbillion in stainless steel with blue dial with an ultra-thin Calibre 2160 equipped with a peripheral rotor and an 80-hour power reserve. And two new versions from the Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin using a self-winding movement Calibre 1120 QP in all gold or a blue dial with a pink gold case version.

A one-of-a-kind model Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar using their Calibre 1731 QP, combining minute repeater and perpetual calendar functions at the heart of a delightfully slender 42 mm-diameter gold case. Using no less than 438 components, some of them no thicker than a hair’s breadth.

In their signature blue colour came two different lines with three new styles from the Patrimony Collection and another two new styles in the New Fiftysix Blue Dials models.