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The key highlights and must-watch collections from Milan Men’s Fashion Week for the Spring/Summer 2025

Author: Kantinan Srisan | Photographer: Courtesy of Marine Serre, Fendi, MSGM, Prada, JW Anderson, Gucci, and Zegna

Jun 20, 2024

“…Continuing from the excitement of the previous season at Milan Fashion Week 2024, the latest Milan Men’s Fashion Week for the Spring/Summer 2025 collection has just concluded. #Legend_th is here to take you through the highlights and standout designs of the latest season once again…”

Marine Serre

Starting off in 2017 with womenswear, this French designer has seamlessly transitioned into the realm of menswear, consistently leaving us impressed. The recent showcase at Pitti Uomo, a prestigious event for classic menswear in Florence, underscored the sartorial essence embedded in this collection.

Featuring an array of meticulously crafted designs such as shirts, blazers, both single-breasted and double-breasted suits, and exquisite outerwear, the collection stood out effortlessly. While the women’s line embraced a Couture aesthetic, the men’s pieces mesmerised with their distinctive colour palette of red, camel, and deep purple. The “half-moon” pattern, one of the most iconic designs of the brand is also subtly incorporated into many pieces. This collection by Marine Serre exemplifies the definition of ‘Classic with a Twist’ in the modern fashion world.

Fendi

One of the fashion empires we adore, Fendi seems to have revisited the roots of its menswear design this time. Various charming elements that were initiated in the 1990s have been reinterpreted through the modern design lens of Silvia Venturini Fendi.

The collection beautifully merges enchanting shades such as sherbet, light grey, beige, ivory, and caramel with classic menswear hues like navy, indigo, black, and dark green. These colours were expertly applied to reimagined classic silhouettes, which not only emphasised structure but also showcased fabric textures like check patterns in various tones, along with intricately embroidered logo details. This showcase stands out as a significant one, offering a fresh and captivating reinterpretation of the brand's valuable heritage.

MSGM

Every design through the eyes of Massimo Giorgetti is brimming with vibrant, youthful energy, and the latest collection from MSGM at Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 is a testament to this. Vibrant shades of green, blue, yellow, pink, and bright red are used to convey the essence of freshness.

The designs draw inspiration from sailing and seaside activities, reinterpreting classics such as camp collar shirts, bucket hats, and Breton-style t-shirts, alongside contemporary casual pieces like unstructured blazers, bold bomber jackets, printed short-sleeve shirts, and various lounge sets. Each piece captures the essence of the Mediterranean coast and modern Italian lifestyle, reflecting Giorgetti's admiration for these themes with impeccable attention to detail.

Prada

Another powerhouse from Milan, Prada, led by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, brings the menswear world with fresh and innovative energy. Fondazione Prada, the contemporary art and culture institution founded by Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli, served as the runway venue for this show. The allure of this collection lies not in flamboyant or futuristic designs but in the enhancement of simple clothing shapes and proportions with unique twists.

The brand expertly plays with proportions, turning basic t-shirts and shirts into cropped tops, pairing unusually small cardigans with untucked shirts, and showcasing short-sleeved coats that reveal the sleeves of the inner layers. Futuristic sunglasses and vibrant colours were skillfully incorporated to make the total look stand out on the runway. This collection perfectly demonstrates Prada's mastery in reinterpreting conventional menswear with attention-grabbing details.

JW Anderson

With the exceptional creativity of Jonathan Anderson, who has left an impressive mark on Loewe, several times, it's no surprise that the menswear collection of JW Anderson, the brand he founded himself, was one of the most talked-about shows of the event. The standout nature of the designs is immediately apparent, characterised by an unmistakable avant-garde style. The designs are strikingly unconventional, featuring oversized ties, vibrant silk bows, denim vests exaggerated to dress-like proportions, quilted outerwear, and reflective yellow waffle-patterned oversized coats.

Objectively, this JW Anderson collection might not be the most wearable in terms of daily use. However, when it comes to the realm of creativity and innovative design, Jonathan Anderson’s work in this collection stands out as one of the most creative highlights of Milan Men’s Fashion Week.

Gucci

Sabato de Sarno’s distinctive Gucci designs in ready-to-wear clothing have been unmistakable since his debut as the brand's Creative Director. However, for the latest Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Sabato de Sarno has taken Gucci out of the city, not to the space or forest, but to the beach.

This transition is showcased through a range of casual pieces, including polo shirts, patterned short-sleeve shirts, fringed jackets, colourful overshirts, and leather shorts. These garments are complemented by the iconic Horsebit loafers, a hallmark design of the brand. Each piece is meticulously crafted for versatility, enabling wearers to mix and match to create diverse styles. This collection further solidifies Gucci’s new image as a luxury ready-to-wear brand, with each item meticulously showcased at the event.

Zegna

Calm, composed, yet rich in details might be the best way to describe the show of Zegna at this event. Beyond the runway space, decorated with a sandy walkway flanked by grass, evoking a sense of nature, the collection's name, 'L’Oasi di Lino’, which translates to 'Oasis of Linen' in English, aptly summarizes Zegna’s deep connection with sustainability and eco-friendly materials in this latest collection.

Many pieces in the collection maintain the brand's hallmark of understated luxury perfectly. The clothing structures are designed to subtly evoke the essence of summer. While some designs incorporate prints to add a playful touch to the overall look, the simple yet powerful colour combinations remain the highlight of the show. This is showcased through various sartorial items like jackets, knitwear, blazers, and more, which tell the story of a luxurious, contemporary Italian summer in every dimension.

Also See: Observing the happening at Milan Fashion Week 2024

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