The Dior Cruise 2025 collection evokes Scotland through romantic drama and departs from Maria Grazia Chiuri's defining aesthetic
Author: Phuriwat Hirunrangsee | Photographer: Courtesy of Dior
Jun 12, 2024
"...The Cruise 2025 Collection is a significant highlight show where French luxury fashion house showcases their bold creativity by emphasising their distinctive design, intricate craftsmanship, and meticulous attention to details. Venue of the show also conveys a message through the collection, completely immersing the audience in the narrative. Dior is a fashion house that takes all on a journey to distant places like Scotland, sparking our imagination. This collection, with its designs that seamlessly blend romance and drama, has been recognised as one of Maria Grazia Chiuri's most unforgettable creations..."
The show takes place in the beautiful gardens of the Drummond Palace, a historically significant architectural masterpiece. The palace's rich history and heritage provide the perfect setting for the collection. The contrast of French fashion aesthetics with Scottish roots, resulting in an interesting combinations, such as floral lace dresses paired with biker boots, and a Dior Signature bar jacket made from tartan fabric. These choices showcase a bold and innovative take on femininity that diverges from Maria Grazia Chiuri's typical aesthetic.
The Collaborations
When it comes to showcasing the rich culture of Scotland through fashion, tartan fabric is often the primary symbol of Scottish heritage. However, Maria Grazia Chiuri's exploration of Scotland's allure transcends the conventional, delving into the esteemed fashion legacy and the production of exceptional materials in Scotland. Through collaborations with manufacturers and brands. She has partnered with local factories and brands to create pieces that perfectly capture the spirit of this region. From collaborating with Johnstons of Elgin to create exquisite cashmere sweaters, to meticulously weaving double-faced cashmere map shawls with the finest materials, every aspect reflects the true spirit of Scotland. In addition, she also collaborated with Lekilr x Lochcarron to create a range of Kilt skirts made from high-quality Harris Tweed fabric. These skirts are not only durable but also feature exquisite designs that demonstrate a remarkable level of attention to detail.
Furthermore, Dior also collaborated with Robert Mackie, the Scottish designer, to create accessories like adorable pom-pom-adorned berets made using traditional Scottish weaving techniques. Dior has also collaborated with Pollyanna Johnson Ceramics, a British artist known for her ceramic artwork inspired by historical women's portraits and typography. Inspired by her one-of-a-kind designs, this collection includes intricate embroidered letter details and painted patterns. Dior's women are given new dimensions by the unique details of Pollyanna designs. From bold red embroidered letters on a leather puff sleeves dress to watercolour gradient patterns on a corset dress layered over a painted shirt.
Punk Aesthetics
The timeless Scottish tartan fabric made its mark in the fashion world for long, particularly in the punk cultural beginning in the 1970s, and is currently resonating around the world. The punk music influence is clearly visible throughout the collection. The designs from Maria Grazia Chiuri, which include studs, leather buckles, metal accents, pearl embellishments, as well as crystal adornments on garments and crossbody bags, exude an edgy yet elegant vibe. The combination of long leather boots and thigh-high chequered stockings creates a striking and stylish look. Interestingly, the makeup and hairstyling in the show embrace a natural and effortlessly chic aesthetic, emphasising upward brushed brows and casually adorned braids with studs, enhancing the overall allure of the models.
In 1955, Christian Dior embarked on a journey to Scotland to showcase a fashion extravaganza in the grand ballroom of the Gleneagles Hotel. The collection showcased a grand total of 172 looks. After 70 years, the hotel has been selected as the destination for a resident that warmly welcomes guests from all over the globe. For this collection, the incredible scenes from that show have been interpreted into black and white photo-printed fabric, making a distinct touch to each look without any words to describe.
Mary of Scots
Mary, Queen of Scots, who reigned over this country for a couple of decades, served as a significant muse for this collection. The collection draws inspiration from the elegant and opulent women's garments of the mid-century era. Balloon-sleeved blouses, stand-up collar capes, floor-length dresses, and armour suits all played a significant role in shaping the narrative. Before designing this collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri visited the Musee de Cluny, where she was captivated by medieval tapestries adorned with crafted unicorn and lion motifs. Women of that period, adorned in opulent hues and intricate botanical designs, served as a captivating muse.
In addition, Maria Grazia Chiuri drew inspiration from the various intricate embroideries that Queen Mary dedicated herself to while she was confined, a period that ultimately led to her tragic execution on charges of treason. The motifs and symbols from these artworks were transformed into ensembles in a range of looks, carefully created by artisans of the Maison using traditional cutting techniques and elaborate embroidery. Floral motifs, crystal embellishments, and pearl accents were intricately woven into the checkered fabric patterns, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication.
