Independent Watches: The Narratives of Craftsmanship and Legacy

Independent watch brands have undeniably surged in popularity among collectors, with their striking designs and sophisticated, meticulously crafted mechanisms. Each piece weaves a rich history that adds depth and significance to the brand's narrative.

BOVET

Brand History: Founded in 1822, Bovet has a rich heritage that has been diligently enhanced under the ownership of Mr. Pascal Raffy, who acquired the brand in 2001 with a focus on haute horlogerie and maximising in-house production. Once celebrated for its intricately decorated pocket timepieces, Bovet gained significant acclaim in Imperial China and beyond. Over the past two decades, the Raffy family has committed to creating timepieces that honour tradition and artisan craftsmanship, following the arrival of Ms. Audrey Raffy ensuring continuity in the brand's mission. As Bovet celebrated its 200th anniversary in 2022, it reflected on a renaissance driven by Raffy's vision, capturing the interest of discerning collectors.

Highlight Model: Unveiled at Geneva Watch Week 2024, the Recital 28 Prowess 1 is a standout piece that showcases remarkable technological innovation. This mechanical masterpiece addresses the complexities of Daylight Saving Time (DST) within a world timer and incorporates an astonishing 744 components, a flying tourbillon, and a perpetual calendar displayed via 24 rollers, each featuring four positions. Its thoughtful design allows for easy adjustments to time zone peculiarities and DST, exemplifying Bovet's commitment to exquisite craftsmanship and sophisticated engineering.

Czapek & Cie.

Brand History: Czapek & Cie. was founded in the mid-19th century by Polish watchmaker Franciszek Czapek, who later adopted the name François Czapek. The brand's history began in Switzerland when Czapek partnered with Antoine Norbert de Patek in 1836 to establish Patek, Czapek & Cie, which thrived until its dissolution in 1845. Czapek then joined forces with Juliusz Gruzewski to create Czapek & Cie, achieving considerable success and gaining recognition as one of the greatest watchmakers of the 19th century. He served as a purveyor to the Imperial Court and became the watchmaker to France's Napoléon III before mysteriously vanishing in 1869. The modern incarnation of Czapek emerged in 2015, embracing a unique model thaขt allows collectors to become stakeholders, and collaborating with top specialists in watchmaking.

Highlight Model: The recent release of the Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition marks a significant milestone for Czapek. Limited to just 38 pieces, this edition offers a flawless mirrored surface created from a single silicon wafer coated in platinum, reflecting on 70 years of achievements for Sincere Fine Watches. Additionally, the watch features a new bimetallic combination of stainless steel and yellow gold, expertly designed to complement the stunning mirrored dial. Powered by Czapek’s in-house Calibre SXH5, known for its seven skeletonised bridges and free-sprung balance, this exceptional piece is embodying the brand’s commitment to innovation while honouring its rich heritage.

 H. Moser & Cie.

Brand History: Heinrich Moser was born in Schaffhausen, Switzerland, in 1805. Both his grandfather, Johannes, and his father, Erhard, were watchmakers of the highest calibre. Heinrich was the beneficiary of their rare knowledge, quickly becoming an expert watchmaker in Le Locle.. In 1828, Heinrich’s entrepreneurial spirit led him to St. Petersburg where he founded H. Moser & Cie. The company’s rare and exquisite creations were soon gracing the wrists of Russian princes and members of the Imperial Court.

Highlight Model: The latest addition to H. Moser & Cie.’s successful Streamliner collection is the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton, which exemplifies a bold and sporty-chic aesthetic. This model features a 40mm x 12.1mm stainless steel case and an openworked dial that seamlessly blends with the case and integrated bracelet. It proudly houses a one-minute flying tourbillon with the brand’s signature double-hairspring, all powered by the in-house calibre HMC 814, offering a 72-hour power reserve. The elegant timepiece is both a testament to mechanical artistry and a striking example of modern design.

Moritz Grossmann

Brand History: Moritz Grossmann is a distinguished name in German fine watchmaking, founded by the talented Christine Hutter, who revitalised the brand in 2008 after acquiring the rights to the historic name originally established by Karl Moritz Grossmann in the 19th century. Hutter’s journey began with an apprenticeship in 1986, which ignited her passion for mechanical artistry and led her to the famed watchmaking hub of Glashütte. The brand has carved a niche for itself by delivering exceptional craftsmanship while embracing modern techniques and traditions, exemplified by the successful launch of the Benu in 2010, powered by calibre 100.0

Highlight Model: To celebrate its 16th anniversary, Moritz Grossmann has introduced the limited-edition Enamel Roman Vintage, a remarkable timepiece. Featuring a captivating black enamel dial, this model reflects the brand's mastery of traditional watchmaking techniques and involves around 90 meticulous steps in its creation. Limited to just eight pieces, the Enamel Roman Vintage showcases the calibre 100.1 movement, characterised by its striking 2/3 plate made from untreated German silver, and is adorned with hand-engraving, highlighting the exquisite craftsmanship that defines Moritz Grossmann.

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