A look at this season’s most awaited follow-ups
Spring/Summer 2025 saw an unprecedented number of debuts, ranging from disappointing transitionary periods to amazing masterpieces. As the major houses’ shuffle slows down, now is the time to see whether these star designers have truly settled into their new positions.
Collections can’t be analysed in a complete vacuum. Especially with the largest legacy maisons, creative directors have the difficult job of balancing their predecessor’s work with their own originality. Neither straying too far away from past appeal but still having to produce original ideas, there are thousands of variables at play in rating a single runway.
Below, we rank fall/winter 2026’s sophomores from worst to best based purely on how well they did compared to last season. Improvements, promising developments and flat out meltdowns await.
#1: Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier
Reactions to the Dutch designer’s previous season were as polarising as can be. The next in line for fashion’s l’enfant terrible, provocative pieces that blended futurism, sensuality and boldness were the mode.
Following up on this seemingly PR disaster, Lantink’s latest is him truly coming into himself. Modified suiting, bomber jacket-blazer hybrids and western styles were reimagined through his own unique, subversive design language. Referencing Gaultier’s past collections in piled-up necklaces, mannequin-printed bodysuits and cowboys, he showed that last season was a mild bump in the road.
#2: Jonathan Anderson at Dior
Receiving a standing ovation for his debut, looking beneath the hype reveals a somewhat half-baked project. Experimentation and odd choices more reminiscent of Rei Kawakubo and Martin Margiela aside, it looked like a jumble of Anderson’s own past work and past creative directors.
This season was a huge improvement: harmonious silhouettes, floral patterns and subtle conceptual messaging show elegance and a display of deep understanding of the Dior woman.
#3: Matthieu Blazy for Chanel
Also the recipient of a standing ovation last season, expectations for Blazy were higher than ever. Delivering once again, Blazy set the scene for the new direction of the brand. Widening the perspective of what the French house is, his unpredictability brought reimaginations of the little black dress, plain materials in gauze and jersey and reproportions of Coco Chanel’s most iconic designs.
#4: Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler
Spring/Summer 2026 was already amazing for Mugler in edgy glamour and power dressing galore. A sequel of consistency and quality, this season was directly titled as “Part II”. Exploring film stereotypes and muses of pop culture and history’s heroines, it was an immersive experience that proves that the Freitas is right at home at Mugler.
#5: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe
The two stepping up to fill in the towering shadow of Jonathan Anderson, Spring/Summer 2026’s sculptural jackets and layered scarves were more-or-less a recalibration of their forerunner. Skipping the weird disruptions that usually follow a debut, it was promising although not particularly wowing.
A house known for experimentation, passing on such just makes it boring – and a second season of the same is disappointing, to say the least.
#6: Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga
Nobody really expected another Demna when Kering announced the Spanish house’s vacancy. Fans of the Georgian’s social commentaries wanted for Martine Rose, while detractors wanted a more classical designer. Going for option two, Pierpaolo Piccioli – formerly of Valentino – looked to be a safe choice, bringing back Cristobal’s more intricate dressmaking to the house.
Referencing more classic ideas of beauty with spring/summer 2026 while keeping Demna’s edge, fall/winter falls apart on both legacy and originality. Struggling with preserving the streetwear oversized styles with classic couture, it seemed confused and lacking direction. A disappointing take on the maison’s storied legacy, we’re awaiting the time for Piccioli to truly put his own spin on Balenciaga.
