Osteria Marzia's chef on cuisine from the Italian coast

Since 2017, Osteria Marzia has been bringing the vibrant flavours of the Italian coast to Hong Kong’s discerning diners. Executive chef Luca Marinelli speaks to Stephenie Gee 

The Italian coast has proved an inexhaustible source of inspiration – for artists, designers, writers, filmmakers and, perhaps most notably, chefs. Stretching more than 7,500 kilometres, it’s home to several regions each offering its own unique flavours and traditions. Forming the heel of Italy’s boot, Puglia embraces simplicity and la cucina povera, or peasant cooking, reflecting its long history of relative poverty. Campania’s culinary repertoire is a testament to its varied terrain, emphasising hearty meat dishes in the inland areas and succulent seafood on the coast. Home to the iconic Naples and Amalfi Coast, pizza and mozzarella find their origins here too. Just off Italy’s toe in Sicily, food is a melange of its past conquerors: the Greeks brought grapes and olives, and introduced the resident population to winemaking; Romans deforested vast swathes of the hinterland, planting wheat in the fertile soils and transforming Sicily into “Rome’s breadbasket”; and Arabs prompted the island’s love affair with sweets and pastries. 

Located inside The Fleming on an unassuming corner in the backstreets of Wan Chai, Osteria Marzia is an underrated gem celebrating the diverse flavours Luca Marinelli and dishes at Osteria Marzia inspired by the flavours of the Italian seaside, including hearty seafood soup zuppa di pesce of Italy’s scenic seaside regions. Born in Varese, Lombardy, executive chef Luca Marinelli heads the kitchen, driven by the sacred rite of seasonal eating that defines his culture and a passion for seafood born from his time working with Mauro Uliassi at his eponymous three-starred restaurant by the coast of Le Marche.

So, the menu is ever-changing. For the latest edition, Marinelli enlisted the expertise of fellow Black Sheep chef Matthew Kirkley of Michelin-starred Belon to showcase the bountiful treasures of the sea. There is hamachi crudo, topped with capers, sea grapes and zest of Sorrento lemon; classic burrata elevated with seasonal Sicilian datterino (plum) and Roma tomatoes, Italian peach and a drizzle of olive oil; and linguine ai ricci di mare, served with an AOP base – a trademark
of Neapolitan pastas – and finished with sea urchins from the Mediterranean.

“The collaboration with chef Matthew was a dynamic synergy,” says Marinelli. “His deep love for seafood and extensive experience made him the perfect partner as I wanted to elevate my menu. We spent time exploring ingredients and methods that merge my Italian heritage with high-quality produce. It was a creative, fun process that pushed my boundaries.” 

How did you begin cooking, and where did your love for food, especially seafood, come from?

I started cooking as a child, spending Sundays in the kitchen with my mom, preparing dinner and baking for family and friends. Given the choice between setting the table or cooking, I chose the kitchen and haven’t looked back since. But my passion for seafood truly emerged when I worked at Uliassi. The experience of watching chefs create magic with the freshest seafood and simple ingredients was eye-opening. 

What was it like growing up in Varese, and how has that influenced your cooking?

Varese, a small town in northern Italy, has a rich tradition of family-run restaurants. The recipes I learned from my nonna and mamma were passed down through generations. Varese didn’t have a big food scene, but we had access to amazing ingredients. These early lessons taught me the importance of simplicity and respect for produce, which shaped the foundation of my cooking. 

What recent challenges have you faced at Osteria, and how have you overcome them?

The challenge is keeping the menu fresh and exciting. People expect new things constantly and as a chef it’s my job to highlight the best of each ingredient without overwhelming its natural flavour. It’s a creative puzzle I enjoy, always pushing me to think of new ways to elevate a dish. 

Where do you find inspiration for your dishes? 

Inspiration comes from a combination of studying the techniques of great chefs and exploring the traditions behind ingredients. I also draw from my early memories of cooking with my mamma and years of hands-on experience in kitchens. It’s a blend of tradition and continuous learning. 

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The pastas at Osteria are some of the best – what makes good pasta?

Pasta is often misunderstood as a simple dish but there are more than 350 types in Italy, each suited to specific sauces. At Osteria Marzia, we start with the sauce, which is seasonal, and then carefully select or create the pasta that best complements it. We test and tweak until we find the perfect match. 

Like Osteria’s signature Spaghetti Bronte. 

Spaghetti Bronte is named after the village in Sicily, famous for its pistachios. Our dish combines pistachio and anchovy pesto, topped with roasted pistachios. It was inspired by our founder who had this dish while travelling in Sicily. It’s simple yet stunning, highlighting the best ingredients. 

Do you have any personal favourites on the new menu? 

I love all the dishes! It’s hard to pick just one. 

Your dishes are very colourful – what role does colour play in your cooking?

Colour has always played a big role in my life. Growing up in a vibrant household and having friends in the fashion industry, I’ve always been drawn to bold colours. Whether it’s in my wardrobe or my cooking, colour makes me happy. I think it enhances the dining experience, making dishes more inviting. 

How would you describe your culinary philosophy? 

Respect for the product, seasonality and tradition. 

Have you had to adapt to the Hong Kong palate in any way?

In Italy, we tend to use more seasoning, but at Osteria Marzia, where seafood is the focus, we prioritise freshness. We use seasoning sparingly, just enough to enhance the natural flavours, which aligns with how we cook in Italy. 

What do you want guests to feel when dining at the restaurant?

I want guests to feel like they’ve been transported to the coast of Sicily. I want them to leave feeling light and satisfied, with the sense that they could return and enjoy it again every week. It’s about creating lasting memories and a desire to share the experience with others. 

What valuable lesson have you learned throughout your career that you still carry with you today?

You never stop learning. It’s always exciting to expand your knowledge and try new things. 

What’s next for you? 

For now, I’m focused on building my team at Osteria Marzia and nurturing young talent. Who knows, maybe I’ll open a few more restaurants with Black Sheep in
the future. 

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