Gloria Gao, Silver Hu and Zeyi Yang report on the spring/summer 2026 menswear collections from major fashion maisons
Lanvin
Vers le monde saw Peter Copping deepen his exploration of the houses’s heritage through tactile modernity. Deconstructed tailoring exposed inner linings, while grosgrain ribbons served as fastenings and structural accents. A reimagined Lanvin blue grounded the palette, and sharply tailored jackets with precise footwear balanced archival elegance with contemporary clarity.
Loro Piana
Loro Piana’s SS26 menswear collection presented a refined study in colour and quiet luxury, emphasising the house’s exceptional craftsmanship. Sun-drenched sands and creams were punctuated by red, marigold and turquoise, expressed through luxurious blends of cashmere, silk and wool. Softly tailored blazers, bomber reinterpretations of the Spagna and Maremma jackets, and tuxedo Bermuda shorts delivered fluid silhouettes with understated, travel-ready elegance.
Louis Vuitton
Pharrell Williams explored modern Indian dandyism through ivory palettes, soft tailoring and glampinginspired outerwear. Botanical embroidery referenced cross-continental travel narratives. Structured yet relaxed silhouettes conveyed refined global elegance, extending the house’s luxury vocabulary into sophisticated formality grounded in cultural dialogue and craftsmanshipdriven storytelling.
Prada
A coastal sensibility guided Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s utilitarian shirts, backpacks and bloomerstyle shorts in soft raspberry, pistachio and lemon hues. Childhood nostalgia and elemental freedom informed the relaxed mood. The collection prioritised fluid comfort over bold statements, offering quiet composure and understated ease suited for reflective seasonal dressing.
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello refined elongated blazers, tailored shorts and fluid silk shirts in ivory, charcoal and warm beige. Precise lines maintained cinematic tension while lightweight fabrics introduced summer softness. The collection balanced restraint and sensuality, reinforcing Saint Laurent’s signature cool precision through disciplined tailoring and controlled minimalism.
Shiatzy Chen
Unstill drew on Chinese heritage to express an “Eastern hippie” spirit in constant motion. Denim patchworks, flowing dresses and tailored jackets incorporated equestrian references, hand embroidery and fluid construction. Sunfaded blues, prairie greens and desert neutrals echoed open landscapes, while beaded trims and whip-stitch accents conveyed poetic freedom, resilience and nomadic continuity.
The Row
The Row’s SS26 collection embodied effortless sophistication with a relaxed, lived-in ease. Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen presented a wardrobe of versatile pieces in a mostly muted palette of white, black and some earthy toneon-tones. Key highlights included boyish bloomers peeking out from under a layer, a trench with removable flannel lining and structured yet comfortable staples.
Tod’s
Designed by Matteo Tamburini, Tod’s SS26 Gommino Club celebrated the iconic loafer as a symbol of relaxed Italian craftsmanship. Clean, unstructured silhouettes appeared in ultrasoft Pashmy leather, airy linen and innovative Travelwool, allowing garments to move naturally with the body. Leisuredriven functionality merged with refined tailoring, reinforcing the brand’s quiet elegance through material excellence and effortless modern proportion.
Valentino
Valentino’s menswear extended Alessandro Michele’s romantic, gender-fluid vision into tailoring. Sheer lace, organza and broad-shouldered suits in vanilla, blush and crimson explored tension between tenderness and rebellion. Transparency softened structured silhouettes, balancing sensual fragility with assertive presence. The collection reframed masculine elegance through poetic vulnerability, expressive craftsmanship and fluid identity.
Versace
Dario Vitale revived ’80s glamour through saturated colour, sharp shoulders, glossy archival prints and Medusa detailing. Body-skimming denim and bold tailoring projected youthful confidence and sensuality. The collection embraced unapologetic energy and expressive freedom, presenting a high-voltage vision of the modern Versace man as bold, sensual and unapologetically free.
