Menswear Autumn/Winter 2024 (part 4 of 4)

Olivia Bullock and Abby Li report on the Fall/Winter 2024 menswear collections by major fashion maisons

Saint Laurent

"More formal, more classic, more masculine,” was the trifecta of brilliance that Saint Laurent’s AW24 collection delivered. Languid suiting provided a slick, yet airy and feminine, feel to the voluminously structured collection. Anthony Vaccarello’s colour selection of grey, black, mauve and bois de rose played its magic with flannels, wools, leathers and satin, transforming all models into mysterious and sophisticated protagonists – the outcome of drawing inspiration from Patrick Bateman in American Psycho. 

Thom Browne

Thom Browne’s latest collection took inspiration from Edgar Allan Poe’s “The Raven,” unfolding on the runway with a fantastical story of love and loss. On the snow- covered stage, Carrie Coon’s powerful soundtrack set the mood for Browne’s dramatic yet wearable garments. From modular structures and dominant black- and-white tones to the layering of silk and moiré, every detail told a tale of heartbreak. When Browne walked out with the red box of chocolates, the love story was truly complete through a magical experience of homegrown couture. 

Tod's

Tod’s in-house studio team took the helm for the brand’s AW24 collection. An intriguing addition was the newly introduced Pashmy, a waterproof suede, in the form of a classic bomber. Elsewhere in the collection appeared the iconic Tod’s W.G. ankle boots, Bubble Gommino shoes and Di bags, all timeless pieces that made the runway. The luxurious materials, unparalleled craftsmanship and harmonious colour palette secured Tod’s position as the ultimate symbol of modern Italian elegance. 

Tom Ford

Peter Hawkings’ AW24 collection for Tom Ford focused on tailored silhouettes and exquisite textures. Taking a safer but slick approach, the collection’s black and muted colours accentuated intricate details, such as brass buttons on military pieces and alligator-embossed leather on perfect-fitting trench coats, wrap coats and overcoats. Sexy, wearable and timeless; quintessential Tom Ford, if we do say so ourselves. 

Valentino

Fusing the usual men’s made-to-measure tailoring with women’s couture, designer Pierpaolo Piccioli strove to dismantle toxic masculinity, explaining he wanted “to give men a new grace and gentleness.” The way he approaches the tailoring of trousers and blazers became the subtle but essential carrier of the message, with rounded silhouettes and suits as soft as cardigans. “It’s a long way from the classic president’s double- breasted suit,” he noted. 

Versace

Donatella Versace gave a show to talk about once again. The women’s collection, “a good girl with a wild soul”, finds its perfect counterpart in this “shy genius.” The soulmate of the rebellious girl doesn’t shy away from the glamour, though. From buttoned cardigans to daring see- through fabrics, cinched waists, spiked hair and eyeliner – they break the rules together, just as Versace intended. 

Wales Bonner

Making an appearance in the academic playground of fashion once again was Grace Wales Bonner. Her show, titled “Dream Study”, reflected her partnership and research at Howard University, with the eye-catching “HOWARD” on sleeveless sweaters layered
with elongated shirts. Her latest collaboration with Timberland also presented bedazzled workwear boots, alongside her Adidas collaboration with nylon jerseys and crocodile-embossed superstar sneakers. 

Also see: Menswear Autumn/Winter 2024 (part 3 of 4)