Reflecting on the spring/summer 2026 haute couture season, Aimee Yan presents the standout moments from each major fashion house
Miss Sohee
Miss Sohee reinterpreted blue-and-white porcelain, ink landscapes and traditional hanbok and hanfu silhouettes into a futuristic Oriental court aesthetic. Cobalt, ivory, jade and blush shaped an ethereal palette. Dense embroidery, crystal embellishment and layered organza constructed sculptural yet weightless forms. Accessories, including fanlike reinterpretations of phone cases, underscored cultural dialogue between tradition and speculative modernity.
Rahul Mishra
Alchemy drew on the five elements—earth, water, fire, air and ether—rendered through nebula embroidery, metallic threadwork and intricate beadwork. Each garment functioned as a wearable cosmos, mapping celestial motion through meticulous craftsmanship. Mishra elevated couture into contemplative luxury, merging ecological symbolism and astronomical narrative with extraordinary technical precision.
Robert Wun
Robert Wun structured his collection as a three-act narrative tracing restraint, desire and resilience. Colour progressed from stark monochrome to saturated intensity, while armour-like tailoring suggested psychological defense. Sculptural silhouettes and dense embroidery conveyed emotional weight. The runway unfolded as visual storytelling, translating inner vulnerability into dramatic couture articulation.
Ronald van der Kemp
Continuing his sustainable ethos, Ronald van der Kemp constructed couture from recycled textiles and antique lace. Deconstructed silhouettes and asymmetrical forms disrupted conventional purity, while saturated coluor clashes heightened visual impact. Environmental philosophy manifested through craft rather than rhetoric, positioning couture as both progressive experiment and conscious reinvention.
Schiaparell
Daniel Roseberry expanded Schiaparelli’s theatrical vocabulary through a mythical aviary inspired by religious iconography and anatomical symbolism. Black, gold and silver established sacred tension. Sculptural elements referencing scorpion tails, serpent fangs and avian forms emerged through metallic construction and dimensional embroidery. The collection delivered heightened drama while sustaining couture’s intricate technical discipline.
Valentino
Titled Specula Mundi, the collection referenced 19th-century panoramic spectacles to explore perception and memory. Monochrome tones contrasted with deep crimson, intensifying theatrical mood. Dense embroidery and heavy velvet reinforced somber grandeur. The presentation carried contemplative weight, reflecting on legacy and transition while sustaining couture’s ceremonial richness.
Viktor & Rolf
Diamond Kite used flight as metaphor for ascension and liberation. Translucent tones and floating structures created suspended silhouettes through layered tulle and sculptural engineering. The garments appeared to defy gravity, merging surrealism with technical precision. Viktor & Rolf framed couture as philosophical gesture, balancing conceptual clarity with ethereal craftsmanship.
