Reflecting on the Spring/Summer 2026 haute couture season, Aimee Yan presents the standout moments from each major fashion house
Armani Privé
Following Giorgio Armani’s passing, Silvana Armani presented the Jade collection inside a 19th-century Parisian palace, framing the show as an act of continuity and remembrance. Jade green, mint, champagne and blush created a tranquil palette. Organza, silk chiffon and fine sequins shaped fluid, weightless silhouettes. The finale bridal gown, originally designed by Armani himself, served as a restrained yet deeply moving tribute.
Ashi Studio
Ashi Studio refined its signature dark romanticism through architectural precision and saturated depth. Sculpted corsetry, exaggerated shoulders and extended trains formed commanding silhouettes. High-density tulle and metallic embroidery introduced a sense of futuristic ritualism. The collection balanced drama with control, positioning couture as performance-ready spectacle while maintaining the house’s disciplined structural clarity.
Chanel
Matthieu Blazy’s first haute couture collection for Chanel transformed the Grand Palais into an enchanted forest, reinforcing themes of freedom and poetic escapism. A palette of blush, lavender and soft pastels flowed through organza, chiffon, feather embroidery and airy tulle. A classic flap bag rendered entirely in organza highlighted craftsmanship. Tailoring and bridal looks drifted between romance and formal precision.
Dior
Jonathan Anderson’s couture debut for Dior unfolded as a cabinet of curiosities, drawing on meteorites, fossils, archival textiles and portraiture. Presented within a greenhouse setting accompanied by Vivaldi, garments appeared to emerge organically. Misty pinks, lilacs and smoky greys softened sculptural embroidery and layered chiffon. Fluid gowns and petal-like headpieces balanced heritage reverence with inventive craftsmanship in a rich dialogue.
Elie Saab
Elie Saab sustained his romantic couture language through a luminous gold-inflected palette. Sequins, lace and intricate embroidery layered across sculpted, ultra-feminine silhouettes. Rather than dramatic reinvention, the collection emphasised refinement and continuity. The result reaffirmed the house’s commitment to polished glamour, timeless proportion and the enduring appeal of ornate craftsmanship.
Gaurav Gupta
Titled Divine Androgyne, Gupta’s collection explored Indian mythology and cosmic duality through sculptural experimentation. Conjoined forms, metallic frameworks and fluid drapery created surreal silhouettes suggesting spiritual transcendence. Silver, astral white and obsidian black reinforced the celestial theme. Gupta transformed couture into philosophical meditation, merging metaphysics and material through disciplined construction.
Julie de Libran
Presented in a private residence, The Scent of Iris: A Celebration of Beauty centred on the flower as a symbol of intimacy and memory. Cream, apricot and silver-grey tones supported knitwear, lace and natural textiles that emphasised tactility. Relaxed silhouettes and layered styling reframed couture as lived elegance rather than spectacle, merging artisanal detail with quiet domestic refinement.
Also see: Womenswear spring/summer 2026 runway report (part 2 of 2)
