H. Moser & Cie., Studio Underd0g and Massena LAB on their collaboration

An old hand at collaborations, H. Moser & Cie. continues to push the boundaries of watchmaking through unexpected partnerships with Studio Underd0g and Massena LAB. Moser co-owner Bertrand Meylan, Studio Underd0g founder Richard Benc and Massena LAB founder William Massena talk to Stephenie Gee about the joys of coming together to create unique pieces that celebrate their shared passion for horology 

Watchmakers get by with a little help from their friends. From ancient Egyptian water clocks, which were adopted and perfected by the Greeks into semi-mechanical instruments; to marine chronometers, developed in the 18th century by English carpenter and clockmaker John Harrison with the aid of formidable allies; and Patek Philippe’s iconic “Ricochet” collection of asymmetrical watches designed by Gilbert Albert in the 1960s, collaboration has always been a driving force in horological innovation. Incredibly complex objects, watches pose infinite possibilities in both mechanics and aesthetics. 

Thriving on charting new territories, H. Moser & Cie. has made its way around the block amassing a company of creative bedfellows, including streetwear label Undefeated; menswear purveyor The Armoury; the Alpine F1 team, whom they began working with as a sponsor at the beginning of the 2024 season; and watch brands like MB&F and, most recently, British microbrand Studio Underd0g and Massena LAB, a horological concept studio founded in 2018 by watch industry veteran William Massena. Together with the former, Moser debuted a duo of purple and golden- hued pieces inspired by the colours of the passion fruit. With the latter, it launched the Endeavour Chronograph, limited to 100 pieces, which embodies the seamless fusion of historical reverence and modern ingenuity. 

“Moser emphasises exceptional quality and traditional watchmaking techniques, ensuring that each timepiece is a work of art that honours our heritage. We are renowned for our minimalist yet extraordinary designs, which not only reflect contemporary tastes but also distinguish Moser from more conventional watch brands,” explains Bertrand Meylan, co-owner of the Swiss watchmaking maison. “The brand philosophy, encapsulated in our logo, Very Rare, centres on the principles of entrepreneurship, exceptional craftsmanship and relentless innovation. From designing and producing our own in-house mechanical movements to the meticulous reshaping and hardening of each individual hairspring, we strive to create watches that are true works of art.” 

Additionally, we boldly explore new territories by collaborating with other brands while reinforcing our identity. These collaborations allow us to blend traditional
craftsmanship with innovative ideas. We enjoy collaborating with brands that share our creative mindset, and we seek partners who are fueled by a shared passion for crafting timepieces that are not only functional but also truly artistic.” 

Let’s start with the watches. Tell us about the concept and the inspirations behind them.

Richard Benc: The Passion Project was the soft launch of our 03SERIES. We’ve wanted to offer a more premium version of our famed chronograph design for a number of years, and this collaboration was the perfect platform to do so. Fans of the brand were quick to pick up on the fact that this was a total new development.
To understand the colour inspiration, one must understand the concept of the collaboration. We wanted to highlight the passion that often is the lifeblood of our industry. From the passionate designer to the passionate watchmaker to the passionate enthusiast, passion is what makes horology so special. The passion fruit colours naturally align with Studio Underd0g’s fruity-inspired approach, but it also is a semantic reference to the wider concept. 

William Massena: The Endeavour Chronograph was very much inspired by vintage H. Moser & Cie. models from the 1940s. As a collector, vintage chronographs have always been a particular passion of mine, and I’m especially drawn to chronographs from the midcentury. The dial of the Endeavour Chronograph reflects much of what I love most about the vintage models: the double register dial layout, the tachymeter scale, and the historic H. Moser & Cie. signature to start. 

To me, the mid century represents exploration, aviation and adventure. This was a time when pilots depended on the accuracy of their chronographs to measure distance flown and to measure remaining fuel. For example, after WWII, chronographs which had been designed for military purposes were then sold and distributed to the civilian public. What had previously been a tool watch for military purposes was then consumed by the mainstream in peacetime, but the spirit of these watches was preserved.

I hope that when you wear the Endeavour Chronograph, you can appreciate the push and pull of the past and present, the tension between the 1940s and 2024. Wearing the Endeavour Chronograph should evoke a journey through time and through watchmaking history. 

Bertrand Meylan: William Massena is a great connoisseur of vintage watchmaking and long-standing friend of the Meylan family. Inspired by Moser’s earlier models from the 1940s, the Endeavour Chronograph embodies the essence of watchmaking tradition while infusing a timeless modern edge. It serves as a bridge between the past and the present, showcasing both brands’ ability to continually push the boundaries of innovation while celebrating the rich horological heritage of H. Moser & Cie. 

As for Studio Underd0g, we engaged in extensive discussions about collaborating with a microbrand. After much deliberation, we developed a concept that merges our identity as an independent watch brand with Studio Underd0g’s unique perspective. We believe Richard’s idea captures the essence of Studio Underd0g while also reflecting the spirit of Moser. The watches reflect the lively energy and creativity that define both brands. 

What were some of the challenges you encountered during the creative process, and how did you overcome them?

Richard Benc: For me the biggest challenge was always going to be putting forward a design that would instantly resonate with the H. Moser & Cie. team. I didn’t want the design process to be a democracy, as often too many chefs spoil the broth! Therefore, when I pitched the concept, I wanted it to be as close to final as possible. In the end, only one minor adjustment was made as the H. Moser & Cie. team really understood my vision. 

William Massena: Watch design is an incredibly specific art form, and if the details are not completely correct, the design can fall apart very easily. Watch design requires a great deal of patience, and the team at
H. Moser & Cie. certainly understands this and was incredibly accommodating as we worked through every tiny detail together. 

Richard and William, how did you negotiate your own brand identity and aesthetic with that of Moser’s?

Richard Benc: From the outset, I always knew that for a high-horology independent, there would be plenty of risks associated with working with a microbrand like Studio Underd0g. Not only do we play at the entry level in terms of price point, but we’re a brand that is less than four years old. I knew few brands would have the vision to see beyond these inherent risks. H. Moser & Cie. are notorious risk takers! 

As our two brands play at opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of price point, it would be easy to assume that we have little in common. The reality is we share a lot
more than one might think. Studio Underd0g and H. Moser & Cie. frequently poke fun, be that at themselves or the industry as a whole. Despite the difference in price point, many H. Moser & Cie. owners are also Studio Underd0g owners and vice versa. 

William Massena: To me, the dial of the Endeavour Chronograph is a perfect marriage between H. Moser & Cie. and MassenaLAB.Tostart,theFunkyBlue
dial and its sunburst gradient is instantly recognisable as Moser and is certainly typical of many of their modern creations. From that starting point, however, where H. Moser & Cie. may favour strict minimalism, Massena LAB is very much the opposite. Embracing the maximalism found in wristwatches from the 1940s, we take a paintbrush to the dial, adding everything that Massena LAB loves about vintage chronographs but with a touch that is modern, fresh and very Moser. 

What was the experience of working together like? I know this collaboration was Studio Underd0g’s first partnership with another watchmaker. And William, collaborations are an integral part of the brand philosophy, so what was different about working with Moser? 

Richard Benc: H. Moser & Cie. is a historic brand with a rich history. When we started developing the collaboration, I was expecting the process to take many years as typically historic brands are notoriously slow-moving machines. Not H. Moser & Cie.. Their approach was closer to that of a modern tech company, which allowed us to move very quickly indeed. Edouard [Meylan] and I first met in June/July 2023, and the collaboration launched in September 2024. 

Working with H. Moser & Cie. was my grail collaboration. Collaboration allows brands to tell stories that they typically cannot tell by themselves. I wanted to show that despite our playful approach, we’re very serious about what we do! This approach is shared by Studio Underd0g and H. Moser & Cie., and was something that I wanted to showcase.

William Massena: I was, of course, very excited to work with H. Moser & Cie.,
a brand which, under the direction of my friends, the Meylan brothers, has developed a very specific design aesthetic and a strong following. It should go without saying that for a small brand like Massena LAB, it is an honour to partner with one of the top Swiss independent watchmakers and a trailblazer in the industry. 

For me, it’s most exciting when a collaboration moves beyond the dial and touches upon other elements of creating a truly new object. For example, the Endeavour Chronograph is the first H. Moser & Cie. chronograph outside of the Streamliner collection, creating a new offering, providing customers with greater choices and a more accessible price point. 

Bertrand Meylan: The three brands come from different backgrounds, yet we share the same passion in watchmaking. We have always admired the incredible creativity of Studio Underd0g, and we believe that together we can create a fun and unforgettable experience for collectors. Mixing a microbrand like Studio Underd0g with an independent brand like Moser presented quite a challenge. However, I learned a great deal about how Studio Underd0g develops and positions itself in the market. It’s fascinating to explore the business model of this microbrand. 

Massena LAB is known for its bold, experimental creations that consistently push the boundaries of innovation, making the brand truly exciting for us. You may notice that the design of this collaborative piece diverges slightly from the minimalist philosophy typically associated with H. Moser & Cie. However, it remains faithful to the aesthetic of the 1940s, striking a perfect balance between tradition and contemporary boldness. The relationship between William and the Meylan family was undoubtedly crucial to the design of this piece. 

Last but not least, Bertrand, what’s next for H. Moser & Cie.?

Bertrand Meylan: Our collaborations often arise organically through discussions rather than formal planning. Our upcoming collaboration promises to be something entirely different, sure to surprise all our watch collectors. It will involve a brand that has no ties to the watch industry. 

Also see: Jill Chen's watch collection