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From Rolex to Blaken: The future is customisation

Aug 29, 2024

In the world of haute horlogerie, where precision meets artistry, luxury watches have emerged as the ultimate expression of individuality and sophistication. For those who believe that timepieces should be as unique as the wearers themselves, Hill Choi Lee looks into the realm of customisation which offers an array of options. From renowned brands to independent artisans, the luxury watch market is brimming with opportunities to create a personal masterpiece that transcends mere functionality

Bespoke luxury watches are not just about telling time; they are about making a statement. These timepieces encapsulate the essence of personal style, often reflecting the wearer’s lifestyle, values and aspirations. The allure of a bespoke watch lies in its ability to combine traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation, resulting in a piece that is not only functional but also a work of art.

As the luxury watch market evolves so too does the demand for customisation. Today’s discerning collectors are no longer satisfied with off-the-shelf options; they seek unique creations that tell their stories. This shift has led to a burgeoning market for bespoke services, where brands and independent watchmakers offer tailored experiences that cater to individual tastes.

Leading the charge: Customisation services

Blaken stands out as a pioneer in the customisation of luxury watches. This German company specialises in transforming high-end models from prestigious brands into one-of-a-kind pieces. Using patented high-tech processes, Blaken offers a range of customisation options, from coloured bezels and unique dials to diamond-like carbon coatings. Each transformation respects the original design while adding a personal touch, making every watch a unique statement piece. Their online configurator allows clients to experiment with various design elements, ensuring that the final product is a true reflection of their style.

A customised piece by Blaken. Photo via Instagram | @blaken_atelier

Atelier Wen, a rising star in the luxury watch scene, takes a different approach by infusing cultural heritage into its designs. This independent brand celebrates traditional Chinese artistry, offering watches that are functional while also rich in cultural significance. Their bespoke services allow clients to choose from a variety of designs that honour this heritage, creating pieces that resonate on a personal level.

The watchmakers at the forefront

The world of independent watchmaking is a treasure trove of bespoke options. MB&F, known for its avant-garde designs, offers the LM Sequential EVO, a watch that combines two independent chronograph complications in a single timepiece. This level of engineering excellence appeals to collectors who appreciate the intricacies of horology and the artistry involved in creating such complex mechanisms.

Twenty calibres in 17 years. Photo via MB&F.

Habring² is another independent brand that excels in bespoke craftsmanship. Their Chrono Felix Perpetual combines a chronograph with a perpetual calendar, showcasing functionality and elegance. Each piece is meticulously crafted, making it a coveted addition to any serious collector’s collection.

Chrono Felix Perpetual. Photo via Instagram | @habring2

Voutilainen is synonymous with exquisite craftsmanship. Each watch produced by this brand is a testament to the skill and artistry of its creator, Kari Voutilainen. Known for unique dials and movements, Voutilainen’s timepieces are often characterised by their intricate details and exceptional quality, making them highly sought after by collectors who appreciate fine watchmaking.

The new KV20i Reversed timepiece. Photo via Instagram | @voutilainenwatches

Established brands embracing customisation

Even established luxury brands are recognising the value of bespoke services. Rolex, while traditionally known for its iconic models, now offers customisation options through authorised dealers. This allows clients to select specific materials, dials, and bracelets, creating a more personalised experience while maintaining the brand’s prestigious reputation.

Patek Philippe, a name synonymous with luxury, also provides bespoke services for select clients. Known for its high-end timepieces, the watchmaker allows for unique modifications and engravings, ensuring that each watch is as individual as its owner.

Patek Philippe 18K Yellow Gold Dual-Crown World Time Wristwatch Ref.2523 with 24-hour indication and a polychrome cloisonné enamel dial depicting the map of Eurasia. Photo via Christie’s.

Personalisation that is low-impact

Customisation is one aspect through which luxury watch fans make their mark in this area. The rise of social media and influencer culture has amplified the demand for unique timepieces. Watch enthusiasts share their bespoke creations online, inspiring others to seek personalised options. This trend nurtures a community of collectors who value individuality and craftsmanship over conventional luxury.

Another trend has been emerging for several years: consumers are increasingly aware of the environmental impact of mass production, leading to a preference for bespoke options that minimise waste. Brands offering tailored experiences must cater to individual tastes while also aligning with the values of a more socially conscious consumer base.

Several brands are already embracing this ethos. For instance, Chopard is at the forefront of sustainability in luxury watchmaking, utilising ethically sourced materials including “Ethical Gold” from Peru and Columbia. They have also announced that all future steel timepieces will be crafted from Lucent Steel. A material that is over 80 per cent recycled and significantly more durable than traditional steel.

Breitling on the other hand has partnered with Ocean Conservancy and the Solar Impulse Foundation to promote environmental causes. So does Omega with various sustainability campaigns, including the “Our Planet” initiative. Rolex touches on nurturing talents in the fine arts and marine and wildlife initiatives with their Perpetual Planet Conservation. IWC prioritises renewable energy, ensuring all its boutiques operate on 100 per cent renewable sources.

This shift aligns with the luxury watch industry’s growing recognition of the importance of sustainability. Younger consumers, particularly Millennials and Gen Z, prioritise ethical and environmentally friendly products. According to a 2022 Deloitte report, sustainability is a significant factor influencing watch purchases, ranking third after brand and price.

A sustainable personal journey

In a world where luxury often equates to exclusivity, bespoke luxury watches offer an alternative that feels intimately personal. They invite you to embark on a journey of self-expression, crafting a timepiece that tells your unique story. Whether through the innovative customisation services of brands like Blaken and Atelier Wen or the artisanal craftsmanship of independent watchmakers such as Voutilainen and Habring².

As the market evolves, sustainability has become an increasingly important factor for consumers, particularly the younger generations. Brands respond to this demand by incorporating eco-friendly materials and promoting environmental initiatives. This shift aligns with the growing awareness of the impact of mass production and the desire for more conscious consumption.

The future of the luxury watch market looks promising, with a strong emphasis on personalisation, sustainability and the preservation of traditional craftsmanship. As the industry adapts to the changing preferences of consumers, it is clear that the luxury watch will remain a coveted accessory and a symbol of timeless elegance for years to come. Yet we must remain mindful that the efforts by which sustainability is achieved should be an industry-wide effort and not the endeavour or sales tactic of the few giants at the top.

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