Founder of Seoul’s Born & Bred on remaking Hong Kong dishes at Moo-Lah
Dec 16, 2024
Jung Sang Won, Hanwoo expert and founder of Seoul’s Born & Bred, remakes local favourites with globally celebrated cuts of beef at his first overseas venture, Moo-Lah. He talks to Stephenie Gee
Hanwoo is a serious business for Jung Sang Won. Born and raised in Majang-dong, the Seoul neighbourhood known best for its meat markets, Jung became obsessed with the bovine breed at a young age, inspired by his father’s legacy in the butchery business. Driven by this passion, in 2015 he launched a one-table private restaurant inside the Majang Meat Market showcasing what the best quality meat can taste like.
Born & Bred became an instant success and before long, expanded into a multi-level, multi-concept venue – encompassing a butcher shop and casual café, an à la carte dining hall where meat can be ordered by weight and cut, four private dining rooms, and a speakeasy-inspired tasting-menu restaurant offering a distinctly beefy take
on a Japanese omakase meal – which has since earned the title of best grill restaurant in the city by Taste of Seoul 2022, as well as appearances on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.
Now, Jung is bringing his expertise in this proud Korean speciality to Hong Kong with Moo-Lah (“Moo” for beef and “Lah” for Hong Kong). Located on a corner of Hollywood Road, the 24-seater “seeks to marry the rich traditions of local cuisine with the dynamic flavours and unparalleled quality of Born & Bred’s iconic Hanwoo beef, recognised worldwide for its unique marbling and robust umami,” Jung explains. “Moo-Lah highlights this exceptional ingredient, with each dish thoughtfully crafted to celebrate the distinct depth of flavour that Hanwoo beef can bring to traditional Hong Kong and creative Korean-influenced recipes along the way.”
Why Hong Kong?
Starting Moo-Lah in Hong Kong is a dream come true, and I couldn’t be more excited to introduce the exceptional flavours of Hanwoo beef while honouring the rich culinary traditions of this vibrant city. Hong Kong is a melting pot of cultures, and its dynamic food scene has always captivated me. I have a deep appreciation for the local culture and the unique flavours that characterise Hong Kong’s diverse cuisine. These influences inspire me to create dishes that not only celebrate the exquisite quality of Hanwoo beef but also resonate with the community.
My goal is to blend traditional elements with innovative techniques, resulting in a menu that both locals and international guests can enjoy. Through Moo-Lah, I hope to foster connections among diners by offering an experience that is both nostalgic and exciting. By embracing the local culinary landscape, I aim to contribute to Hong Kong’s gastronomic heritage in a way that feels authentic and meaningful.
Are there any cooking methods or flavours that work best with Hanwoo? That bring out its best characteristics?
Hanwoo beef has a robust beefy flavour without being overly greasy or heavy, making it a versatile choice for various dishes. To showcase its unique qualities, we’ve chosen to use thicker slices or chunks of beef in our noodle dishes, so diners can truly experience the sensation of biting into a perfectly cooked steak. By employing cooking methods like grilling or braising that enhance its tenderness, we aim to create dishes that elevate the taste and highlight what makes Hanwoo beef exceptional.
What were some of the challenges you encountered bringing Moo-Lah to life? I understand it took you three years to secure the license to export your beef here.
Bringing Moo-Lah to life involved overcoming several significant challenges. Securing the license to export our beef to Hong Kong was a lengthy and complex process. It involved numerous procedures and certifications that we had to navigate, including compliance with health and safety regulations, quality assurance standards, and exportation and importation guidelines set by the Korean and Hong Kong governments.
Each step required meticulous attention to detail and collaboration with various authorities to ensure that our product met the stringent requirements. Additionally, since the importation of beef bones is temporarily prohibited by the Hong Kong government, we had to innovate the recipe for our consommé-like broth. Instead, we craft our broth by simmering flavourful cuts of brisket, shank, ribs and top rounds, combined with radish.
How would you describe your philosophy?
I believe that ordinary noodle dishes can become extraordinary when paired with high-quality Hanwoo beef. By introducing this premium beef, which was previously inaccessible in Hong Kong, we transform everyday meals into memorable experiences that truly engage your taste buds. Inspired by my passion for Korean beef, which was sparked by my father, a beef purveyor, the Moo-Lah brand honours my fondness for clear soup brisket noodles – a beloved comfort food in Hong Kong. My objective is to authentically recreate this dish using the highest-quality ingredients, all served in a relaxed and welcoming environment.
Tell me about the beef used at Moo-Lah.
At Moo-Lah, we use only the highest-quality cuts of Hanwoo heifer beef from the top-ranked 1++ (No. 9) category, ensuring exceptional quality and tenderness. While the official grading system does not consider the age or gender of the cattle, we specifically select heifers aged between 24 to 36 months. This discerning approach, developed over decades of expertise in Hanwoo distribution, distinguishes Moo-Lah and creates a standard that is difficult to replicate.
Do you have a personal favourite cut?
At Moo-Lah, guests can savour dishes crafted from premium cuts, including beef ribs, brisket, blade, shank, round and tendons. My personal favourite is the brisket due to its versatility. We incorporate it into our Hong Kong-style curry rice and our soup noodles, highlighting its rich flavour and adaptability.
Walk us through the dishes served. And how did you familiarise yourself with all the Hong Kong flavours?
At Moo-Lah, diners can choose from a variety of tempting options: assorted Hanwoo beef brisket in clear broth served with either rice noodles, egg noodles or rice; Hanwoo beef shank with original gravy sauce and stir-fried noodles; aromatic Hong Kong-style curry beef brisket with egg noodles or rice; and the black peppered Hanwoo burger with fried egg on rice. To complete the meal, guests can indulge in one of two desserts: a classic Hong Kong white sugar sponge cake or a black sesame roll.
As a regular visitor to Hong Kong, I have developed a deep appreciation for the city’s vibrant dining culture. I love how food acts as a bridge, bringing people together and fostering connections. This passion is part of what inspired us to immerse ourselves in the local flavours. We conducted extensive research in Hong Kong, sampling various traditional dishes to understand the flavour profiles and refine our approach. I also believe that the unique dining culture of Hong Kong resonates with many Korean tourists, who are drawn to its rich culinary offerings. At Moo-Lah, we strive to create dishes that celebrate this cultural exchange, ensuring that both locals and visitors feel welcome and appreciated.
Also see: Where to eat in Hong Kong this December
