Following his Gucci debut, we look back at the most important stages of the Georgian designer’s career so far
The modern age has seen few creative directors as polarising as Demna. Initially gaining popularity for his antics at Vetements, every season since has been a masterclass in virality – social media feeds buzzing, garments flying off the racks, and positivity and negativity alike all going his way.
Controversy abound, you either love or hate his work. In spite of that, he’s undeniably one of – if not the most – influential designers of the past decade. His tenure at Balenciaga saw revenues grow from $390 million to almost $2 billion, he pioneered the oversized style, and oversaw the now-ubiquitous incorporation of streetwear onto the runway.
With his recent move to Gucci, his takeover of Kering’s crown jewel is the culmination of everything he’s learnt so far. Now more than ever is the time to focus your eyes on him as he continues to define high fashion’s coming years. As such, we put together a list of Demna’s biggest moments to help understand his ever-advancing design language.
Vetements Autumn/Winter 2014
Featuring inflated silhouettes, raw edges and upcycled materials, the collection was a clear indication of what would become Demna’s signatures. Produced in collaboration with his brother Guram Gvasalia, pieces subverted the popular logomania of the time – purely emphasising quality, function and refinement. Though it may appear relatively pedestrian today, the exaggerated proportions and anonymous presentation was truly revolutionary for its time.
Vetements Spring/Summer 2016
The beginning of his infamous collaborations, the DHL T-shirt is a perfect characterisation of Demna’s provocative, humorous approach to clothing. The predecessor to his work with the most ridiculous and unexpected of Crocs heels, Fortnite hoodies and McDonald’s slides – the criticism of excessive branding in subversive graphics toyed with consumerism and traditional aesthetic values. Trying out more unconventional shapes and cuts, the collection also marked the debut of his use of florals. A motif that he shares with Balenciaga’s eponymous founder, vibrant palettes and contrasts made the loud statements that he’s become known for.
Balenciaga Autumn/Winter 2017
Although not the first with the maison, it’s where we first see the Triple S. massively chunky soles, intense colourways that toe the line of downright eye-soring, and a still lasting influence on sneakers – and arguably one of the starting points of street-casual’s slow absorption into luxury. Altering the looser proportions of the oversized silhouette’s previous iterations, boxy shoulders and varying jacket lengths made for a more explicit delineation of the body. Continuing with his ironic graphics, this show can’t be discussed without mention of its Bernie Sanders campaign parodies – the emergence of his later injections of political themes into presentations.
Vetements Spring/Summer 2020
The last of his work with Guram, McDonald’s hosted an introspective of capitalism with models in moto boots, name tags and reconstructed fabrics. Reimagining life’s most ordinary in passport holders and fast food, it’s a landmark in Demna’s specific design influences and development of a comprehensive visual identity, and where runway locations get progressively more astonishing.
Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2022
No campaign is likely to ever live up to Balenciaga x The Simpsons. Following up on the previous seasons flirts with technology and digital presence, a deep-fake inspired show saw the return of the Croc Pumps, the introduction of menswear maxi-skirts and intensely accessorised denim, and the finalisation of his trademark cat-eye sunglasses.
Balenciaga’s 51st Couture Collection
Brining back the tradition for AW22, Demna aimed to bring haute couture to a wider audience. Enlisting celebrities like Nicole Kidman, Dua Lipa and Kim Kardashian, pieces removed the barrier between elite and commoner, allowing anyone to walk into 10 Avenue George V and purchase a piece for themselves. Innovative fabrics, integration of house codes and transformative contouring are still retained in his designs to this day.
Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2022
Better known as the snow globe show, this is probably the moment Demna fully leaped into the dark side. Greatly inspired by the Russo-Ukrainian conflict and the awakening of his own wartime trauma, bags resembled sacks of rubbish and clothes were made from mundane items like tape and towels. The knife pumps represent the latest form of the prototypal sock-trainers and stiletto heels, merging bodysuits with footwear.
Gucci Spring/Summer 2026
A complete 180, Demna’s latest move resulted in the revival of the classic Gucci archetype – luxurious materials, flashy patterns and form-fitting silhouettes go to the maximum on opulent grandeur. With such an illustrious record of trail-blazing experimentation, there had to be a few moments we left out: SS23’s mudshow and the Yeezy x GAP collaboration to name a couple. Nevertheless, it’s a list that is sure to grow even more as he carries on with his journey.
