#beauty: Everything you need to know about your daily skin protection

Now that we all know the importance of daily UV protection, the only question is which sunscreen is best for our unique needs. Tama Miyake Lung checks out the latest innovations from Sweden, the US and beyond

Blame it on COVID-19, social media or simply our modern obsession with ageing – sunscreen is finally having its moment. Some 60 years after Swiss chemist Franz Geiter invented the sun protection factor (SPF) rating – the measure of how much solar energy, or UV radiation, is required to produce sunburn on protected skin relative to the amount required to produce sunburn on unprotected skin – consumers are spoiled for choice with an endless array of creams, powders, sprays and more, promising to block harmful rays, improve skin health and even reverse the root causes of cellular ageing.

“The recent surge in sun protection innovation can be attributed to a combination of factors. Firstly, there’s a growing awareness and concern about skin cancer and other skin-related issues caused by UV exposure. Secondly, advancements in ingredients and technologies have played a significant role. And lastly, there’s a greater emphasis on overall skin health and wellness in the beauty and healthcare industries,” says Jean Pinto, co-founder and brand director of Swedish suncare brand Evy, which was recently introduced at Lane Crawford as part of its Solmate collection of summer essentials. “This demand has driven companies to invest in research and development, resulting in innovative solutions that cater to a variety of needs and preferences.”

There’s no question sunscreen has come a long way from the 1960s when deep tans were the epitome of beauty and status. Today’s formulas are focused on safe sun exposure, with broad-spectrum protection against UVB rays, which cause burning and skin cancer, as well as UVA rays, which penetrate deeper into the skin and cause wrinkles, fine lines, dark spots and other visible signs of ageing. While both can damage the skin year-round, UVA rays account for 95 per cent of the UV radiation reaching the Earth and can even pass through windows and cloud cover.

Evy, which launched in 2010, bases its sunscreens on a unique mousse formula originally developed to treat people with eczema, contact allergies and dermatitis. “Why SPF in a mousse?” Pinto asks. “Because it’s all about enhancing the user experience. The mousse is easy to apply, absorbs quickly and is less likely to be rubbed off compared to traditional sunscreens. This makes it perfect for active lifestyles and everyday use. Plus, it’s suitable for all skin types, making it a versatile choice for everyone in the family.”

Evy’s sunscreens – which range in SPF from 10 to 50 with formulas for adults, children, babies and hair – are also preservative-free and therefore exceedingly gentle on the skin. The mousse formulation not only forms a durable barrier that is resistant to water, sweat and friction, but also penetrates deeper into the skin’s upper layers. The addition of antioxidants helps to neutralise free radicals generated by UV exposure and prevent long-term skin ageing.

“Skin is our largest organ; it should be treated as one. At Pavise, we’re working with world scientists to create new molecules that can actually solve skin problems, rather than coming up with another marketing story”

Sophie Bai

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Sophie Bai, who discovered an anti-ageing compound at 16 and studied chemical engineering at MIT before launching the innovative skincare brand Pavise in September 2023, is taking the issue of UV-induced skin ageing to a whole other level. “I was a cancer drug developer before. I view skincare as healthcare. Skin is our largest organ; it should be treated as one,” she says. “At B.A.I. Biosciences, the holding company of Pavise, we’re working with world-class scientists from Harvard, MIT, Yale and Stanford to create new molecules that can actually solve skin problems, rather than coming up with another marketing story. Everything we do is science- and efficacy-led.”

Pavise’s hero product – Dynamic Age Defense, also available at Lane Crawford – was created as a
one-and-done morning product to replace a typical 10-step skincare routine. Its proprietary DiamondCore technology works to protect against both UVA irradiation and Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), which together account for 90 per cent of skin ageing. “If we can tackle ROS and UVA at the same time, we’ve found the fountain of youth,” Bai says. “DiamondCore is the only molecule on the market that can do both. Other UV filters, both chemical and mineral, generate ROS.”

“DiamondCore does three things,” Bai continues. “First, it utilises a quantum physics principle – high-efficiency electron shuttling – to scavenge ROS, which has never been done before. Because of the ROS scavenging capability, it promotes collagen production, decreases inflammation, and slows down and reverses cellular ageing. Second, it helps other skincare actives penetrate deeper into the skin to work better. Third, it provides [five times] higher UV protection while remaining transparent on the skin. Dynamic Age Defense is the most comprehensive and robust skin ageing solution ever invented. Sunscreens do not do what Dynamic Age Defense does.”

Bai hasn’t stopped there. Pavise also offers a tinted Lip Defense powered by DiamondCore biotechnology; an award-winning Gentle Amino Powerwash to remove sunscreen, make-up and impurities; and a revolutionary UV Camera that can be attached to an iPhone or iPad to reveal existing sun damage, check sunscreen application and determine when it’s time to reapply. “Seeing is believing. UV imaging technologies have long been available in dermatology offices and now we’re able to bring the equipment to your pocket,” Bai says. “The UV camera is essential for people with skin cancer or a family history of skin cancer; who are prone to hyperpigmentation, melasma and dark spots; who get cosmetic procedures like lasers and micro needling; and moms who want to make sure their kids and family are properly protected at school or during outdoor activities.”

With the continuing advancements in science, technology and consumer awareness, the future for
sunscreen is limitless. Bai anticipates the introduction of new UV filters that achieve high SPF and high UVA protection while being transparent, cosmetically elegant and unable to permeate the skin, thereby avoiding concerns around endocrine and hormonal disruptions as well as sensitive skin and contact dermatitis. Evy’s Pinto likewise predicts a range of exciting developments from enhanced formulations to greater awareness, education and regulatory oversight.

“With the rise of personalised skincare, we expect to see sunscreens tailored to individual skin types, concerns and environmental conditions. This could involve custom formulations based on genetic testing or AI-driven skin analysis,” he says. “As environmental awareness grows, there will be a stronger emphasis on creating sunscreens that are not only effective but also environmentally friendly. The future will likely bring more multifunctional sunscreens that combine sun protection with other
skincare benefits, such as hydration, anti-ageing and antioxidant properties. This will simplify skincare routines and encourage consistent use. Overall, the future of sunscreen is bright, with a focus on creating more effective, user-friendly and environmentally conscious products that cater to the evolving needs of consumers.”

What’s New Under the Sun?

Enhance your sunscreen game with these new releases, perfect for everyday protection as well as long-term skin health and resilience.

1. Clé de Peau Beauté UV Protective Emulscin SPF 50+
2. Franz Naked SunShield Peptide Patch, available at Lane Crawford
3. Shiseido The Perfect Protector SPF 50+, available at Lane Crawford
4. Supergoop Daily Dose Bioretinol + Mineral SPF 40, available at Sephora
5. Tatcha The Silk Sunscreen SPF 35, available at Lane Crawford
6. Valmont Daily Veil SPF 30

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