Autumn/Winter 2024 (part 2 of 4)

Olivia Bullock and Abby Li reports on the Fall/Winter 2024 collections by major fashion maisons

Dries Van Noten

Titled The Woman Who Dares to Cut Her Own Fringe, Van Noten’s focus on style rather than fashion was translated into a collection of neutral minimalist pieces. Expressing “the only rule is there are no rules,” Van Noten’s bold take on combining neutrals and neon colours laid the foundation for a spontaneous collection. Neon trousers and a cropped cotton candy-coloured faux- fur coat was one of many looks that displayed the brilliance of obscure colour coordination; after all, Van Noten has a knack for combining unlikely pieces and doing it well. 

Elie Saab

Described by Saab himself as “feminine, subtle [and] light”, Melodies of Graceland, based
on a night in Memphis, drew inspiration from Priscilla and Elvis Presley. On the runway, flowers, feathers and fringe accents on maxi dresses, skirts and capes presented Saab’s elegant take on the ’70s. He explained, “It’s about rock and roll, but my way.” 

Fendi

After a deep dive into Fendi’s Rome archives, Kim Jones drew inspiration from a combination of Rome itself and the sudden wave of Japanese designers into Paris in the 1980s. The Romanesque aspect could be identified through pieces of mink corduroy, stitched leathers and Aran knitwear. Japanese inspiration translated into sleek, nipped tailoring. Jones once again stayed true to his muse Delfina Delettrez Fendi, frequently expressing she is the ultimate depiction of chic.

Ferragamo 

Ferragamo’s collection looked to the early 20th century for inspiration, as Maximilian Davis explained, “The 1920s used clothing as a way to celebrate freedom. And that expression
of freedom is something that resonated with me, my heritage and Ferragamo.” The collection displayed variations of olive green looks on leather skirts, shirts and overcoats. The military-themed display was also sprinkled with feathered features, knit dresses, thigh-high leather boots and sheer looks; a respectfully provocative show. 

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani explained, “When I create my collections, I think about women I meet everywhere, and not out of intellectual or sexual stimulation.” Armani played between the darker tones of winter with a heavy floral influence, noting, “There are no flowers in winter – so I invented them. They recall happier seasons, and I like the contrast.” Strapless corsets, sheer blouses, silhouette gowns and floral prints splayed across flats and boots made for the perfect wintry collection.

Givenchy 

As Givenchy looks to appoint its new creative director, the studio team (of in-house designers) took the helm. The show opened with a silver cocktail dress embroidered entirely of silver beads and with a slim tail at the back trailing the runway. The predominantly black, silver and white collection featured evening dresses, tailored suits and leather two-pieces. Givenchy gave us what we needed, its signature polished and classic looks. 

Gucci

Creative director Sabato De Sarno set a challenge for himself to combine what he hates with what he loves to make something new. Building on his dislike for embroidery with dégradé palettes and using the “rotten” shade of green alongside his signature Rosso Ancora tone, De Sarno broke through his creative boundaries. His renowned take on wearability was translated through double- face wool cashmere, leather coats and evening dresses. 

Hermès

Set on a slick black runway, Hermès’ latest show replicated a wet, nighttime movie scene. Designer Nadège Vanhee- Cybulski’s Bikeuse Équestre show revolved around the “riding” sports of horses and motorbikes. The luxury French house produced pointed cowboy boots paired with flared and cropped leather trousers. Following the theme, the collection also featured fitted equestrian jackets, in addition to glossy ostrich feathers embroidered onto jackets. 

Also see: Autumn/Winter 2024 (part 1 of 4)