#legend tells you the trend of this Autumn/Winter 2025

Lanvin

Titled À la maison (French for “at home”), Peter Copping’s debut at Lanvin was a refined tribute to the legendary founder Jeanne Lanvin and her unique vision of fashion. Lanvin’s signature blue hue since the 1920s, evoking the vastness of the ocean and the sky, returned with a modern edge, alongside elements from the house’s archive like the “J” and “L” silhouettes and motherand- child emblem designed by Paul Iribe in 1923. Influences from Jeanne Lanvin’s personal home also echoed throughout, like diamonds of various sizes and colours, inspired by the geometric tiles in her bathroom.

Loewe

Foregoing a traditional runway, Jonathan Anderson opted to showcase his pieces at the 18th-century Hôtel de Maisons. Unfolding across 17 themed rooms, mannequins lounged across chairs in familiar wardrobe staples that played with construction and deconstruction – shirts, knits and coats were spliced together into unexpected hybrids. Leather was also a strong element, draped and elongated in fluid, sculptural shapes.

Loro Piana

Loro Piana’s menswear collection for the season was designed to evoke life in the saddle, following a path from Argentina’s plains to the Scottish Highlands and the vast open lands of New Zealand and Australia, the home of its merino wool. The assortment featured patterned intarsia knit sweaters, quilted jackets and gilets, and variations of the Spagna jacket, reimagined as a short cape or tailored with cropped proportions, as well as soft tailoring like single- and double-breasted tuxedos and sumptuous shearling coats. All were rendered in an elemental colour palette – think slate, loden green, obsidian and soft sand – that evokde windswept plains and distant mountains.

Prada

For their AW25 show, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons explored human nature and basic instincts as tools for fundamental human creativity. Aside from formal suits, there were fur-lined parkas, against which shiny puffer jackets and vests stood out, as well as fluffy trapper hats with happy-go-lucky prints styled with otherwise pared-back sweaters and dress pants. The accessories stole the show this year, including Western-inspired cowboy boots in various textures and prints such as florals and bold hues like red and orange, and reinterpretations of the classic bowling ball.

Louis Vuitton

Co-designed by Pharell Williams and Nigo, Louis Vuitton’s autumn/winter 2025 men’s collection, entitled Remember the Future, was a reflection of their long-lasting friendship and influence on streetwear culture. Earthy tones dominated the runway, with tailored silhouettes, oversized coats and relaxed ensembles that reflected a balance between functionality and high fashion. Japanese motifs played a central role, with traditional techniques like sashiko stitching and kasuri weaving fused together with LV’s signature monogram.

Saint Laurent

This season, creative director Anthony Vaccarello curated a line that pulled from archival haute couture and the coveted vision of Robert Mapplethorpe. Tailoring remained at the core, with oversized overcoats, sharp double-breasted jackets, feather-trimmed coats and trousers. Matte wool and cashmere coats stood in opposition to glossy leather, while silk shirting introduced a subtle fluidity beneath the weight of structured outerwear. Thighhigh leather boots brought an audacious edge to classic tailoring.

Shiatzy Chen

Held at Paris’s Palais de Tokyo, Shiatzy Chen’s Far and Near explored the theme of migration through the lens of Miao embroidery, an intangible cultural heritage from China’s Guizhou province. The colour palette of white, floral, black, red and blue reflected the five Miao communities, reinterpreted in platinum, pink, black-gold, crimson-black and cerulean. Elongated coats, cascading capes and pleated details inspired by traditional Miao skirts evoked movement and grandeur while embellishments of beads, feathers and tassels as well as silver accents nodded to Chinese mythical creatures.

Tod’s

Under the creative direction of Matteo Tamburini, the Tod’s presentation was a masterclass in Italian craftsmanship, blending timeless elegance with human artistry. Outerwear dominated with classic elongated silhouettes and luxuriously felt materials, from cashmere coats to suede trenches, rendered in an earthy palette of burgundy, olive green, black and white. Every stitch, cut and fold whispered Made in Italy, reminding us that craftsmanship is not just technique – it is intelligence made tangible.

Valentino

Alessandro Michele took a philosophical turn this season, presenting a collection that aimed to challenge our perceptions of intimacy and its complex relationship with the self. The show was set in a red public bathroom, dismantling rigid societal norms to celebrate fashion as a language of self-expression unbridled by boundaries. His models sported mixtures of slightly retro suiting, sheer lace and athleisure, pushing the boundaries between casual and formal, and vintage and contemporary wear.

Versace

Dubbed Versace Superheroes, Donatella’s Versace autumn/winter collection was a celebration of fearless individuality. The menswear line was defined by structured tailoring, with archival motifs like wild animal imagery and classically-inspired prints adorning the linings and back panels of coats and emblazoned on fluid silk shirts. Leather outerwear, washed Japanese denim, velvet tailoring and metal mesh embroidery highlighted the house’s signature material contrasts.

Also see: Fashion designer Susan Fang making create between nature and memory