#legend tells you the trend of this Autumn/Winter 2025

Balenciaga

This season, Demna played with the traditional definitions of archetypal garments, from business wear to workwear and eveningwear. Presented in a maze-like backstage corridor, there were minimalistic white shirting and slouchy trousers, bikers in branded helmets, and youngsters in Puma tracksuits with gold medals slung around their necks. Scored puffers, distressed denim, hooded wool coats and shredded tank tops completed the collection.

Burberry

The latest collection by Daniel Lee struck a comfortable balance between modern design and long-standing traditional heritage, with a focus on practical outerwear. The theme evoked a weekend escape to the countryside. The pieces include a lineup of trenches, coats and knits in deep browns, greens and burgundy, some featuring fur-lined hoods and delicate embroidery that added a refined touch to their practicality.

Dior

Kim Jones’s fall collection was all about the clothes, presented in a clinically bare space to highlight the fabrics and construction that distinguish luxury clothing from massproduced garments. The pieces featured exquisite details, such as a folded neckline on a black leather sweatshirt inspired by founder Christian Dior’s H-line silhouette and glass beads scattered like raindrops on the shoulders of a navy suit. A raised drawstring collar and buckled sleeves added a structured touch to a black utility jacket.

Dries Van Noten

Designed by the Dries Van Noten Studio and directed by Julian Klausner, the collection captured how contrasts turn complementary. Tailoring was a consistent theme, featuring rich russet orange, ultraviolet purple and other bold hues, along with classic black in a cape coat with shoelace stitching. There were also lavish floral brooches, lavalliere collars, duchesse satin coats and dramatic leg-of-mutton sleeves that provided a delicate contrast to the earthy tones of hunting fabrics, structured sailor pants and classic peacoats. An edgier vibe emerged through bike messenger-inspired details like black leggings, shoelace belts and boots.

Ferragamo

Maximilian Davis, inspired by the world of dance for his AW25 collection, focused on creating clothing that allows for easy movement. He elevated closet staples to new heights with pieces in a palette of red, camel, white and black, reflecting a devotion to enduring and “normal” clothing archetypes, as favoured by Pina Bausch. Swooping stoles and scarf-like necklines were recurring themes this season, adding drama to simple grey sweaters and tweed coats. Sleeves on tailored garments created the impression of stoles, while stoles with sleeves serve as an alternative to boleros.

Fendi

Charged with creating the autumn/winter collection that kicks off the brand’s centennial year, Silvia Venturini Fendi turned to the staples that have defined it throughout the years. Transporting traditional Italian suiting into a bold future were partially detached asymmetric tuxedo lapels and floor-length fur stoles. Many of the looks were punctuated by contrasting colours and textures, including canary yellow, orange, lace and beading.

Giorgio Armani

Unveiled in Milan with the city’s timeless Via Manzoni serving as the perfect backdrop, Giorgio Armani’s collection celebrated fluid elegance and freedom of movement, blending luxurious fabrics with timeless design. Luxurious cashmeres, wools and silks elevated the looks, which were also enlivened by precious touches of ruby red, emerald green, and Armani’s classic deep blue. Day segued to night with cropped jackets styled with caps and bags giving way to tailored, loose-legged three-piece suits and finally, sharp and sexy evening wear.

Gucci

Gucci’s in-house design team delivered a collection, titled Continuum, that blended the past, present and future, echoing the house’s long-standing ethos of reinvention. Shown in tandem with the women’s, the men’s looks focused more on tailoring, with double-breasted suits accompanied by matching shirts and ties and single-breasted ones worn with tissue-thin turtlenecks, along with car coats in vinyl, patinated animal print or tweed.

Hermès

Véronique Nichanian drew inspiration from racing skills to infuse her collection with “strength and energy.” It featured cosy fabrics and a muted, dark colour palette with shades of grey, black and navy, punctuated by strategic pops of colour. Sweaters and zip-front jackets were adorned with chevrons and other sharp geometric patterns, while tailoring elevated the lineup by bringing a refined formality. Layering was minimal to keep silhouettes sleek.

Isabel Marant

Isabel Marant toned down any hard edges this season with a flurry of soft and textured pieces. Cue thick brushed mohair sweaters in Fair Isle patterns, interpreted in shades of pastel pink and purple, warm beige and mocha, as well as chunky knit cardigans. Suits maintained their clean cuts but with a brushed flannel pinstripe to counter any strict traditional conventions, and paint finishes lent a subtle marbling effect on denim, which also saw variations in powdery pink and dusty rose.

Jil Sander

The final collection by husbandwife creative director duo Luke and Lucie Meier was a bright metaphor for love. The setting was minimal: a pitch-black stage where the only separation between the audience and the catwalk was a thin veil of curtains. This darkness set the stage for a collection that played with the concepts of shadow and light, both literally and metaphorically. Highlight pieces included impactful, thick fur jackets, double-faced wool trenches and slouchy pleated trousers. Raw cuts and textured additions, like ribbons, feathers and leaves, elevated everyday elegance.

Also see: Giorgio Armani x Hong Kong Ballet: Poetry in motion