Yanki Chu, Sona Fong and Chloe Wong tell you what happened in the Autumn/Winter 2025 runway

Balenciaga

Held inside the Dome Courtyard in Paris’s 7th arrondissement, Balenciaga’s AW25 show presented a collection as sharp as it was practical. It opened with a bevy of tailored suits worn by men and women, followed by eveningwear and streetwear. There was a ribbed sweater dress flipped around and cinched at the waist with a decorative pin, a hoodie extended into a flaring, monastic robe, and slimmed-down puffer jackets that were given the bustier treatment and adorned with giant furry hoods.

Balmain

Creative director Olivier Rousteing elevated a cosy array of oversized shapes, ranging from winged cardigans to slouchy sweats, to welcome the new season. Voluptuous rib-knit sweaters and dresses, characterised by their slouchy and bat-winged designs, stood out in particular. This collection aimed to demonstrate that a woman can express confidence and boldness without relying on a truckload of gold or rigid styles.

Burberry

The latest collection by Daniel Lee struck a comfortable balance between modern design and long-standing traditional heritage, with a focus on practical outerwear. The theme evoked a weekend escape to the countryside with pieces like trenches, coats and rain capes in deep browns, greens and burgundy, some featuring fur-lined hoods and delicate embroidery that added a refined touch to their practicality.

Chloé

Showcasing a stunning evolution of boho-chic dressing, infused with a romantic flair, highlights at Chloé included ivory or peach silk blouses with broad don’t-messwith- me shoulders, commanding sleeves, gathers galore and meaty cuffs, giving them the oomph of jackets, alongside some delicate lace dresses with frothy peplums pivoting at the hip. Retro elements were also present, like Chloé-branded belts resting low on maxi skirts and faux-fur tails swaying from garments like playful charms.

Chanel

Presented against a black ribbon backdrop at the Grand Palais, Chanel’s AW25 collection focused on exploring proportions, perceptions and dreamlike interpretations of the house’s signature motifs. Several pieces featured ribbons and bows, incorporating layering and new textures, while other notable items included a military-inspired anthracite tweed jacket trimmed with matte satin ribbon and a sheer black organza tunic top secured with pretty bows at the balloon sleeves.

Dries Van Noten

Julian Klausner’s debut collection for Dries Van Noten was a celebration of transformation – the quiet yet powerful dialogue between past and future that lies at the heart of the brand. A monochrome palette of deep black and moody hues dominated the runway at first, before gradually giving way to an explosion of colour and pattern: olive green met violet, checks clashed with polka dots, burnt orange merged with grey, and green dots contrasted against purple.

Dior

For this season, Maria Grazia Chiuri peered into the evolution of femininity, paying tribute to Dior’s creative director from 1989 to 1996, Gianfranco Ferré. There were lace-trimmed dresses with a sculptural edge, corseted blazers blooming with floral embellishments and all-black uniforms layered with retro J’adore Dior tees revived for 2025. But the look of the day would be a red frock coat, ruffled shirt, pantaloons and trompe-l’oeil riding boots.

Fendi

Charged with creating an autumn/winter collection to kick off the brand’s centennial year, Silvia Venturini Fendi turned to the staples that have defined it throughout the years. Shearling was quilted and patchworked to mimic the noble furs of the house’s origins, while satin balza skirts and sculptural corolla jackets paid homage to midcentury couture. The colour palette, inspired by Rome at sunset, transitioned from deep greens and petrol blues to rich chocolate browns and graphite before softening into terracotta, dusty rose and buttery neutrals. A final flourish of bubblegum pink and scarlet injected a vibrant contrast, closing the collection on a bold note.

Ferragamo

Maximilian Davis, inspired by the world of dance, focused on creating clothing that allows for easy movement. He elevated closet staples to new heights with pieces in a palette of red, camel, white and black, reflecting a devotion to enduring and “normal” clothing archetypes, as favoured by Pina Bausch. The collection featured knit tube dresses, double-breasted topcoats, satin skirts and sheer flapper dresses adorned with shearling and lace for added modesty.

Also see: Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 trends: Fringes, layering, prints, and more