Autumn couture 2024 (part 1 of 2)

Olivia Bullock and Abby Li report on the Fall 2024 couture collections by major fashion maisons

Armani Privé

Diamonds are a girl’s best friend... or is it pearls? Giorgio Armani’s latest couture collection was all about the pearls: pearl and pearl-shaped embellishments, pearl colours, pearl-like textures and pearlescent gowns. Displaying both understated chic and jaw-dropping looks, Armani encapsulated the true opulence and decadence that is quintessential Armani Privé. 

Chanel

Christophe Honoré’s staging for the Chanel autumn couture collection took inspiration from the show venue: Palais Garnier. The theatrical show featured a dramatic black taffeta cape and voluminous white wedding dress, as well as the house’s signature skirt suits and other structured pieces. If this show were an opera, it would definitely be a romantic one – with bow elements on the garments as well as models’ accessories, tassel embroideries and gemstones of all colours, every look had its own story going on. Playful but classic, if we do say so ourselves.

Christian Dior

Echoing the theme of the Olympics, Maria Grazia Chiuri drew inspiration from ancient Greece. Breaking the boundaries of fashion in antiquated society, Chiuri explained, “I don’t want to build the body, I want to release it.” And that’s precisely what she did – wearing silky, drapey, fluid garments with tank tops and bodysuits replacing the restraining corsets, the models strode down the runway, radiating confidence. 

Elie Saab

Elie Saab brought back some of his designs from the ’90s for this autumn couture collection. The show started with a black velvet off-the-shoulder mermaid dress and ended with a breathtaking champagne- coloured gown decorated with crystal beads, sequins,
and chiffon and organza layers. To carry the glam between the show’s opening and closing looks, dark ruby and emerald- green pieces stood out with their feather, draping and embroidery details. Elie Saab offered us extravagance at its finest. 

Gaurav Gupta

Indian designer Gaurav Gupta took inspiration for his latest collection from jyotirgamaya, a Sanskrit word describing the spiritual journey from darkness to light. Though the runway show was cancelled due to a personal emergency, the collection’s Zari Zardosi embroidery, metal breastplate and brass accessories – not to mention Gupta’s signature sculpting techniques – still shined through the screen. The transcendent theme was reiterated in the colour selection of ivory, sand, black and bordeaux – a well thought-through palette representing the stages of a spiritual journey. 

Giambattista Valli 

This season Giambattista Valli fused his inspiration from India with his adoration for Italian opulence, saying he wanted the collection to recreate the sensation of “supreme bien être (well-being).” Billowing gowns graced the runway in every bright and beautiful colour. Some models had blue or lilac face paint while others donned sheer hoods that cascaded down into gown trails, creating the most exquisite balance between lightness and volume. 

Iris van Herpen

After 16 years in fashion – with exhibitions underwater and in the sky – Iris van Herpen managed to stage yet another masterpiece. Her collection of nine looks was a static display of brilliance. Models appeared to be floating but stationary on the walls in majestic poses and jaw-dropping gowns. With extravagant frills, embellishments and pleating, van Herpen’s haute couture was a marvellous feat. 

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