Your next favourite timepiece should come from one of these independent watchmakers

Collectors and enthusiasts alike know there’s more to the world of watches than the big, well-known brands. One of the most exciting things about the watch industry is the independent watch brands that are popping up here, there and everywhere. Known within the space as micro-brands or independents, they have grown and mastered their craft without help from the larger horological fish. These modern, market-savvy watchmakers use their relatively small size as a virtue, making scaled-down manufacturing and direct-to-consumer marketing work to their advantage. They can be more nimble and more responsive to the desires of their fans, and they can keep prices under control by minimising any costs that don’t go directly into the product being sold. They stay lean and focused, pouring their attention into a limited range that speaks directly to the obsessives who line up to buy from them.

Below, seven brands that are worth knowing.

Atelier Wen

Atelier Wen was founded by Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, two Frenchmen with a shared passion for
– and deep connection to – Chinese culture and watchmaking. Through their time living and working in China (Tallendier an advisor and expert in the China Horologe Association, and Wilfried a graduate of Peking University and Tsinghua University), the pair developed a deep reverence for watchmaking. Upon their return to Europe, the two quickly grew disillusioned with the dismissive reception towards Chinese craftsmanship by their peers. Together, they sought to put a spotlight on Chinese watchmaking and remake the perceptions of Chinese horology, blending Chinese artistry with French engineering. Their first series, “Porcelain Odyssey”, offers two models equipped with porcelain dials, one in blue nicknamed “Ji” and one in white nicknamed “Hao,” powered by a Liaoning Peacock SL-3006 movement. If you think “Made in China” doesn’t smack of quality, think again.

Bamford Watch Department

Bamford Watch Department (BWD) is a pioneering London-based luxury watch customisation house, founded in 2004 by George Bamford. It began when George DLC-coated his own Rolex black for a sleek, modern look, sparking massive demand and revolutionising personalisation in an era of mass-produced watches. The brand specialises in bespoke modifications of iconic timepieces from brands like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Bvlgari and more – often featuring bold black DLC coatings, custom dials, colours, materials and finishes. They operate from their Mayfair headquarters and have become the official personalisation partner for several Swiss maisons, while also launching high-profile limited-edition collaborations, including with G-Shock, Zenith, Franck Muller and others.

Massena Lab

William Massena was a die-hard collector for over three decades before he started Massena Lab in 2018 as a collaborative studio for independent watchmakers. The French-born watchmaker founded the brand with the core idea of creating, designing and developing unique and unusual watches while also partnering with some of the world’s biggest watch brands. Today, in addition to designing with other brands, the label manufactures small batches of its own limited-edition timepieces that are influenced by the rare and mega-expensive watches that Massena himself has loved for years. Like, the Magraph, which features his first in-house movement, inspired by the one inside a Patek made in 1952. The design on the dial is an homage to another one-of-one Patek, created for the Berlin-based jeweller Margraf in 1935.

MB&F

MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) is a groundbreaking Swiss independent watch brand founded in 2005 in Geneva by Maximilian Büsser, a visionary who previously led Harry Winston Rare Timepieces and worked at Jaeger-LeCoultre. Dubbed the world’s first “horological concept laboratory”, MB&F redefines haute horlogerie by transforming timepieces into 3-dimensional kinetic art sculptures – “machines that tell the time” rather than conventional watches. The brand’s philosophy revolves around radical creativity, collaboration with talented “friends” and deconstructing traditional watchmaking norms to inspire collectors to embrace their inner child. Production remains small-scale (hundreds of pieces annually), with a focus on limited editions and high-end mechanical artistry.

Naoya Hida & Co.

After decades working in the watch industry and a lifetime searching for his ideal watch and not quite finding it, Naoya Hida decided to create his own in 2018. Hida’s approach to watchmaking is deeply rooted in the principles of Japanese craftsmanship, known for its emphasis on precision, attention to detail and pursuit of perfection. Drawing inspiration from his cultural heritage, he infuses each timepiece with a sense of harmony and balance, reflecting the timeless elegance of traditional Japanese aesthetics. And the best part? If you’re in Tokyo and reserve in advance, you can visit the workshop on certain Fridays, and meet the man himself and his talented team.

Simon Brette

Son of a carpenter, Simon Brette grew up valuing meticulous handcraft before studying watchmaking engineering in Neuchâtel. He honed his skills at Chronode (under Jean-François Mojon), MCT and MB&F, contributing to groundbreaking movements before launching his eponymous brand in 2021 to champion exceptional craftsmanship, transparency, and collaboration with top artisans. The brand revives traditional techniques while embracing modern innovation, producing ultra-limited timepieces in the classical chronometer style – with obsessive attention to detail, non-magnetic materials like Phynox and Grade-5 titanium, and a focus on crediting every contributor. His debut model, the Chronomètre Artisans, is a stunning time-only watch, featuring a highly decorated, hand-engraved dial with variants in zirconium, titanium, rose gold, and more recent steel versions. It won the Horological Revelation Prize at the 2023 GPHG, cementing Brette as a breakout star.

Studio Underd0g

Fresh and playful, and mostly food-themed, Studio Underd0g was born during lockdown in 2020. Richard Benc, frustrated by the lack of creativity in the watch industry, set out to create “a serious watch that didn’t take itself too seriously” – injecting bold colours, food-inspired whimsy and irreverent humour into high-quality mechanical timepieces while reviving a bit of British watchmaking spirit. The brand exploded with its debut 01Series chronographs, offered in four vibrant colourways: Watermel0n, Desert Sky, Go0fy Panda, and Mint Ch0c Chip. These sold out instantly, building a cult following for their vibrant designs, excellent finishing,and affordable pricing. The brand has evolved through series (01 chronographs, 02 field watches, 03 premium chronos with Swiss movements) and wild collaborations – including H. Moser & Cie. (Passi0n Fruit duo), Fears (Gimlet), Wristcheck (egg-themed), and even hand-delivered Pizza Party specials that became legendary events.

See also: Calëo’s founder on telling a story through fine jewellery