October 17, 2025

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Yanki Chu, Sona Fong and Chloe Wong give you a rundown for the Autumn/Winter 2025 runway looks

McQueen

The theme of the collection was dandyism, unravelled and rewritten, inspired by artists, writers and aesthetes decorated for distinction, borrowing from the codes of the Victorian Gothic. Looks embodied a strong sense of pride, showcasing elements such as book-pleated collars, pinched Victorian shoulders, rich jacquard, form-flooding shearling and studded sunflower embroideries. It captures the dandy’s radical spirit in the modern world, as envisioned by creative director Seán McGirr.

Miu Miu

In a show aptly named Femininities, the Miu Miu girl became a lady for the label’s AW25 presentation. Pleated miniskirts and preppy branded sweaters were traded in for statement suiting, slinky slip dresses, and bullet bras poking out of slouchy sweaters and structured blazers. Brooches served as the key accessory for many looks, and curves and the careful manipulation of form were everywhere. Models also toted ludicrously capacious bags perfect for stuffing everything from books to snacks to lipsticks.

Prada

This season, the brand delved into the question of “What does femininity mean today?” Answers were explored throughout, beginning with the very first look, in which the classic LBD was reshaped, featuring innovative cuts and proportions. Other wardrobe essentials were also present: denim, knits, a staple white button-down, knee-length skirts and more, each given a modern, stylistic twist meant to continue the dialogue at hand.

Saint Laurent

On the final evening of Paris Fashion Week, Saint Laurent delivered an unforgettable spectacle beneath the Eiffel Tower. Against a backdrop of brown-hued marble projections, models took to the runway in pieces that blended strength and femininity. Sharp shoulders and rich, jewel-toned colours dominated, with ribboned highneck dresses paired with pointed stilettos. Anthony Vaccarello proved that sometimes, sticking to classic but well-tailored pieces like pencil skirts and coats can still make an impression.

Valentino

Alessandro Michele took a philosophical turn this season, presenting a collection that aimed to challenge our perceptions of intimacy and its complex relationship with the self. The show was set in a red public bathroom, dismantling rigid societal norms to celebrate fashion as a language of self-expression unbridled by boundaries. His models sported mixtures of lingerie, sheer lace and athleisure. But there were also looks for seeing and being seen: classic, slightly retro suiting, bow-embellished ’40s day dresses and gowns – and even for nightlife, such as a strapless going-out top paired with jeans, early-aughts style.

Schiaparelli

Entitled Lone Star, Schiaparelli’s AW25 collection embodied the idea that women dress not for men but for themselves and other women, prioritising self-expression and female camaraderie over the male gaze. Contradictions in women’s lives – balancing strength and softness, masculinity and femininity, control and vulnerability – created a collection that played with duality. Hard, utilitarian elements like cowboy boots and tooled leather were reimagined with feminine refinement, while delicate fabrics mimicked structured forms, blurring the line between toughness and tenderness.

Shiatzy Chen

Held at Paris’s Palais de Tokyo, Far and Near explored the theme of migration through the lens of Miao embroidery, an intangible cultural heritage from China’s Guizhou province. The colour palette of white, floral, black, red and blue reflected the five Miao communities, reinterpreted in platinum, pink, black-gold, crimson-black and cerulean. Elongated coats, capes and pleated details inspired by traditional Miao skirts, evoked movement and grandeur while beads, feathers, tassels and silver brooch accessories nodded to Chinese mythical creatures.

Sportmax

This season, Sportmax redefined modern femininity with sculptural silhouettes and technical fabrics into sleek and unbroken lines. Fringe appeared across sleeves and hems, while cracked shearling, faux-croc textures and oversized collars added tactile depth. Slouchy statement boots and the supple Soffy bag, paired with twisted metal jewellery, brought an avant-garde edge. The result was a fully futuristic yet wearable wardrobe, balancing fashion with function and intricate craftsmanship.

Tod’s

Under the creative direction of Matteo Tamburini, the Tod’s presentation was a masterclass in Italian craftsmanship, blending timeless elegance with human artistry. Outerwear dominated with classic elongated silhouettes and luxuriously felt materials, from cashmere coats to suede trenches, rendered in an earthy palette of burgundy, olive green, black and white. Every stitch, cut and fold whispered Made in Italy, reminding us that craftsmanship is not just technique – it is intelligence made tangible.

Versace

Dubbed Versace Superheroes, Donatella’s Versace AW25 collection was a celebration of fearless individuality. The show opened with striking pieces crafted from Versace Home quilts, sculpted into dramatic volumes and printed with the house’s signature motifs, evoking the opulence of Gianni Versace’s residences. The brand’s historical archive once again served as a key point of reference, appearing as off-the-shoulder silhouettes and voluminous crinoline skirts paired with structured corsets from Atelier Versace Fall 1997.

Vivienne Westwood

Creative director Andreas Kronthaler continued to honour his late wife’s legacy with a collection that merged sensual tailoring with dramatic layers, rich textures and the brand’s signature rebellious spirit. Classic Westwood hallmarks like bold plaids, slouchy suiting and deconstructed silhouettes were reimagined with modern twists while eccentric details like birdcage handbags, contrasting socks and feathered heels jazzed up every look.

Also see: A guide to wearing lace, 2025’s most romantic trend

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