Born in 1934 in St. Gallen in Eastern Switzerland, Kurt Klaus began his tenure at IWC in 1957 under his mentor, the great technical director Albert Pellaton. During his 42 years at the Swiss manufacture, he significantly shaped its reputation for complex and innovative watchmaking – inventing, among many other sophisticated mechanisms, his ingenious perpetual calendar, which debuted in the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar in 1985 and would go on to change the course of IWC’s trajectory. Even after his official retirement in 1999, Klaus has remained closely associated with the brand and an active figure in the industry, mentoring young watchmakers and conducting lectures and workshops. His legacy, particularly the perpetual calendar, continues to inspire IWC’s creations. As Klaus celebrates his 92nd birthday this month, IWC museum curator David Seyffer shares the master watchmaker and industry legend’s six defining watches, each with particular significance for either their technical relevance, personal connection or role in his decades-spanning career.
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5037 (2024)
This watch plays a major role for Kurt, as he received a special engraved version on the oscillating weight for his 90th birthday.
Da Vinci Chronograph PPC, Ref. 3921
When IWC launched a new Da Vinci in 2017, the watch still contained the perpetual calendar mechanism that Kurt developed in 1985. This watch helped IWC achieve a breakthrough and recognition in the haute horlogerie segment. For Kurt, Ref. 3921 is particularly important as it symbolises the continuous evolution of his ideas and visions.
Da Vinci – Perpetual Calendar Edition Kurt Klaus, Ref. IW376201 (2007)
In 2007, IWC launched the Da Vinci with a tonneau-shaped case. A limited special edition was a tribute to Kurt. The small inscription “K. Klaus” opposite the year display refers to the exceptional watchmaker, whose portrait adorns the back of the watch as a relief engraving. This is one of his favourite watches.
Pilot’s Watch – UTC, Ref. IW325102 (1998)
This watch, presented at the Basel Fair in 1998, would not have been possible without Kurt’s inventive spirit. This remarkable development within IWC’s Pilot’s Watch line is based on Coordinated Universal Time. Its crown allows any time zone in the world to be easily switched forwards and backwards, and a separate display window shows a freely selectable time parallel to the wearer’s local time.
Da Vinci – Lady Chronograph, Ref. IW373501 (1988)
In contrast to the Porsche sports line, the Da Vinci represented the jewellery segment, equally for ladies and gentlemen. The Da Vinci Lady Chronograph brought highly developed technology to ladies’ wrists. Equipped with a semi-mechanical calibre 630 as well as date and moon phase display, it accompanied the Da Vinci collection throughout the years and became one of IWC’s most successful ladies’ watches.
Portugieser – Tourbillon Mystère, Ref. IW504204 (2004)
This watch is Kurt’s greatest favourite, not only visually stunning due to its timeless and elegant design but also from a horological perspective. At the 12 o’clock position, the heart of the watch, the flying minute tourbillon “floats”, fully visible without an upper bridge. Kurt had already planned for the possibility of expanding the basic calibre 5000 with complications during its development, and after several years of development work, he made this plan a reality in 2004.
